oh...let me add I checked for fire/spark with a new plug and took off the coilignition module, wire brushed all the rust off, then put it back on using the "business card" method for gap. Still no fire.

Try this link and read for a low or no cost fix.

No guarantees.

Sounds like you got a helava deal on that mower if all thats bad is a CD pack.

Neal

Here is a link that might be useful: Heat method of revitalization

Thanks indy452.....I have it "baking" in my toaster oven now. Do not have a torch.........I will report back.....I may just have to buy a CD ignition module........but dang it I hate to buy that and STILL have it be something else (like low compression). Is there any way to check compression without a guage?? I am guessing not.

WOW!!!! guess what....baking the cd ignition module for 1 hour at 200 degress worked!! I got fire!! I put it all back together after that and put NEW gas mixture in it. I got it started ( many many pulls still) and ran a few strips in the yard (did not need it...we are in a drought!!)

OK more questions. It surges like hell and then actually a few times it would smooth out, then surge more. And it was hard to start subsequently AFTER it had run a few times. Do I need to put the throttle ALL the way to the "start" position each time and prime it again each time (my tecumseh does not require that)? My other lawn boy has no throttle at all so this is new to me. It seems to help for sure to shove it forward. I did nothing on the carb (other than drain the old gas and check the filter). Another thing..........sometimes it will NOT stop when releasing the bar, I sanded what I thought were the contacts for the shut down/ start bar but it still sometimes will not stop (the mechanism looks like it is in its proper adjustment to me but??). Any suggestions on the "surging" and the shutting the engine down problem? And how long do you think the coil renewal will last???

Anyway thanks a lot!!!! I REALLY appreciate it!

I'm suprized that the duraforce folks aren't around tonight.

Check these threads out. Long reads but loads of info.

I'm not a huge fan of the Duraforce so I can not help you on the surge thing.

Good luck, Neal

Here is a link that might be useful: rejetting info

Probably 'varnish' in the carb from old fuel being left in it. Add an ounce of fuel injector cleaner to the tank and run it some more. The engine control bail should at least cut off the ignition even if the brake is worn out. You need to fix this somehow. Maybe somebody previously messed with the wires. Normally you leave the throttle on 'fast' for a restart. All the way forward is choke, which probably would help if it's a gummy carb.

I would remove the tank, and carb and clean it all out using spray carb cleaner as it probably has dirt and varnish in it. Also peal back the part number sticker on the side of the carb and remove the low speed jet that is hidden there and check to make sure that the tiny hole in the tip of the jet is clear. Clean the tank and the fuel line and add a good inline filter like the Briggs #5065 and a 90 degree fuel shutoff like the Briggs 698183, 494769, or 120228 so you can shut off the fuel during storeage. One last area to clean is the primmer system which doubles as a vent to the carb. Take the primmer bulb off the base and clean carefully using soap and water only as the carb cleaner may melt the bulb. Clean the tube and install a piece of oiled foam air filter element under the bulb when assembling. Put it back together and check to see if it still surges. If it does then try opening up the low speed jet only first before increasing the main jet opening size. You may only need a little bit more fuel that the low speed jet can provide. Duraforces are powerful and tough but you have to tweek the carbs and shutoffs and fuel filters will make them easier to live with. Good Luck!

Thanks indy, saxman and mtgrs. Indy I read most of that rejetting thread but I will probably start with what saxman said, then move to what mtgrs said, then to the rejetting if I have to. I read the old owner's one receipt he gave me and he bought the mower in April 2001 and in Sept. 2001 a new carb was put on by the dealer costing the original owner $130.48. The work order says the interior emulson tube had been removed and the carb had been removed before. So when the thing was only 6 months old it had a new carb and gaskets. The original owner said he was a "tinkerer" and said he could not get it to run now so lord knows what he may have done to the second carb. He told me when I picked it up he thought the trouble was in the carb but so far it was the CD ignition module that indy gave me the link to bake it for an hour at 200 degrees that got it running again. Anyway tonight I plan to tackle the shut down mechanism. It really bugs me more that this thing will not shut down right upon release of the bar than the surging does.

'Surging' is pretty natural for 2-cycles. Particularly at idle, the Duraforce speeds up and down and sputters. It will never run on a 'straight line' like a 4-cycle. Even at fast speed, it's still idling until it hits a load, then it should go into 'power mode' with a power stroke every time and no sputtering. RPM may still vary some. It should only be a problem if, under load, the RPM go up and down so dramatically that the mower can't be used. RPM will vary on a perfectly-running 10323 much more than they would on a 4-cycle. I find the 'sweet spot' on the throttle that gives the max engine speed without engaging the choke and leave it there. There really is no need for the variable throttle since the mower is designed to operate at max blade speed (3200 RPM max) all the time. I always liked the throttle on a mower until I got a new one without it, then I realized there's just no need for it.

surging is not natural for 2cycles

Well on the "KILL/START" bar or whatever you call it, I am officially a dumb #@#@. I think I routed the wire wrong and its insulation got frayed and was hitting something or was grounding out or whatever. I wrapped the bad area with electrical tape a couple times over and rerouted it the way it SHOULD be and the thing works great. I think that was just my stupidity. I started the mower (3-4 pulls and getting better at it) and mowed some more with it and this time it hardly surged at all, just a 3-4 times in maybe a 20 minute mowing run. Maybe the new gas I got after dumping the old helped??? I think I have myself a GREAT mower now.....the thing is wonderful (right now anyway).
I now sharpened the blade, greased the self propelled housings, and while I am at it, should I clean the exhaust port? I read the owners manual on that....not sure I have any left over silicon to reseal it but maybe I do. I am a bit scared to do any more.........if it ain't broke don't fix it....at least not any further.

Anyway thanks a lot, all of you all just made me a great mower for about $40 all told and some labor. Thanks again!

Saxman, Surging is not pretty natural for 2-stroke engines. On the Duraforce it's a result of poor carburetion brought on by Toro's efforts to comply with EPA emission standards. The carburetor on the Duraforce has non-linear characteristics where mixture is concerned versus throttle position and engine speed. A theoretical graph of the Duraforce's carburetor mixture at rpm would showing a wildly gyrating up and down line as it moves through the throttle's range. This variance in mixture is the cause of surging. The mixture variance causes gains and losses in power and causes the governor to try to compensate. It can't due to the carburetors inability to put out a steady fuel/air mixture.

W@hatever. I stand by what I said. I believe you're all wrong about the Duraforce.

rdaystrom, you've got it nailed. Now the question becomes what can be done about it? I think with the right carburetor modifications or possibly adapting a different carburetor the Duraforce can be smooth running and easy to live with.

Believe it or not, sometimes using two governor springs will calm it down quite a bit. Not per se the best repair, and it doesn't always work, but for $1 if it works, why not? Our local Toro rep actually suggests this when we replace a duraforce carb. Tells you how much confidence they have in their OEM parts...

Rarely have I seen a lawnmower carb that couldnt be rebuilt. The local dealers say "Replace the carb" because that is the most profit making fix. Rebuilding the carb is not cost effective. I bet with what you have done so far and the help of a few people from this board a carb rebuild would not be out of the question.

It would be great if there was a bolt on replacement for that plastic piece of non-sense. but until then I'm happy with the jetting mods. That for sure helped the DuraForce tremendously.

hey I am the original poster of this thread. after letting the 10323 sit a few weeks (because we have had no rain and only stems were growing) my 10323 is not starting again. And again I am getting no fire. Earlier with a tip from you all, I baked the coil in my toaster oven at 200 degrees for an hour and got it running decent for a week or so then parked it 2-3 weeks as I said. Is it time to just buy a new coil for it (that is what I am thinking)? I do not know if I can stand baking the coil every few weeks.
Thanks very much!

I came across this post when I was troubleshooting a 10525 that a neighbor was having trouble starting.

I was skeptical but I thought I would try the sanding off the rust and baking trick to ressurect her non-functional coil. Sure enough, it worked. Upon reassembly, the thing started up on the first pull.

I knew that my fix might be temporary unless I did something to keep moisture from getting in the coil again so I took it off again and sprayed it with a couple coats of clear acrylic lacquer spray paint after masking the contacts. Only time will tell if this results in a somewhat lasting fix. If it doesn't last, I'll just have to order a 99-2911 replacement coil to get it fixed. Local prices for that part are around $40.

subpar - Did you do anything to try to keep the coil waterproofed? If not, that may be worth trying the next time you bake it.

~Irish

Great tip Irish! I'll have to try the laquer spray next time.

Neal

I've tried baking coils a few times in the past year (including REALLY Baking some last weekend - charbroiled coils don't work well at all. I forgot about them on the BBQ for a few hours and they got higher than 200!) and I've never had one last for more than a few days. Haven't tried the laquer approach - but at this point I'm treating it as a temporary "trial" for the coil rather than a permanent fix.

Eric

Heh...BBQ huh?

Fortunately my wife doesn't have a big problem with me using her oven as long as I clean up the coil real good before baking it (on a sheet of aluminum foil).

So far, so good - no dain bramage as far as I can tell!

Does anybody know part number of ring pistons(or kit) for Lawn Boy 10323 silver series 1999 model. Thank you in advance

Sebastian, use this parts viewer.

Yes, it will find lawnboy parts because Toro ownes Lawnboy.

Neal

Here is a link that might be useful: parts lookup

Direct quote from engine manual in trouble shooting under Engine Surges:
"Possible Causes Remedies
Fouled idle circuit Clean idle circuit
Air leak Check sealing surfaces, oil seals, gaskets, and port plugs
Restricted fuel flow Check filters and fuel line
Engine RPM low Adjust to proper specification. Note: A light surge at no load is normal.
Governor link misadjusted (R tek) Adjust
Air vane sticking Clean or replace."
Now, somebody define "light surge".
Rusty

vrooooom vroooom vroooom vroooom vrooooom vrooooom vrooooom...

You get the picture! Thats why I ditched my duraforce powered mowers for 10515's and boy I'm glad I did.

Neal