Yes, you can grow pomegranate bushes in Utah. The Russian-Turk pomegranates survive down to zone 6. I am currently living in zone 6b and growing both Russian 26, and Salavatski. The question is whether or not you will get a fruitful harvest. If you are willing to do a little work you can grow them outside and still have a harvest. You will need to plant them in a micro-zone warm spot usually on the south side of your house. A micro-zone will bring the growing perimeter up to zone 7. In order to get a harvest your pomegranate will have to start blooming in April. You can put stakes around your bush and then staple 6 mil plastic drop cloth around the stakes creating a temporary anti-freeze zone and this will help warm the bush up and bring it out of dormancy quickly. You can do the same thing to extend the growing season if your pomegranates are not yet ripe by November. Hope this helps.

@subtropix Its not stupidity of the animal; things just happen sometimes. I, very ironically, have personal and numerous experiences with this. I am a certified veterinary tech and have practiced for years. I am currently attending college to get my DVM. You would be surprised what animals eat. I just took care of a cat last Tuesday for eating lilies, a notoriously poisonous plant (the whole species, actually) for cats. Last year, my dog ate a good portion of an onion, which causes basophilic stippling (poison of the white blood cells). A dog came in two months ago who not only ate a whole bag of grapes, which causes renal failure, but half of his neighbor's azalea bush, which is a majorly toxic plant, all within half an hour. Yesterday, a dog came in with three Littlest Petshop figurines in his intestines. The moral of all of this is that crap happens. Sometimes, animals eat things. Why? Heck if anyone knows. But they do. If your animals did not have any inclination to eat plants (or plastic animals), that is absolutely wonderful; but, people should not just assume their animal would not try it, because there are always going to be exceptions. I do not wish to tempt fate, especially when my gliders have shown a strong inclination to venture on trees and scratch and bite at them, as they would have done in the wild in order to take care of their nails and teeth. Ficus, particularly noted the benjamina, has sap/juice that can cause minor to major (relatively; my animals are very small) skin rashes, irritation, and if wounded by it, can cause large, painful blisters for them. Can you understand why I would not risk it in good conscious? Thank you though for the opinion on the camellias. I've decided not to grow them as inside plants. @Dave Subspecies of species can change dependent on where they are geographically and the features that affect their day to day lives (predation, food supply, competition, etc.). This is true for all animals and plants. So it isn't far-fetched to believe that a different subspecies can hold different traits, such as poison in order for protection. For example, the urtica diocia is known commonly as the stinging nettle, has 6 subspecies, where only 5 of them actually sting you (with hypodermic hairs that inject histamines and other chemicals). The 1 leftover can not harm you. Another example would be butterflies; some are poisonous due to the predators that live in that specific area. And I was just making a comment on my zone. That is all. I do realize that inside growing isn't really affected by your zone. Like I stated above, ficus, particularly noted the benjamina, has sap/juice that can cause minor to major (relatively, my animals are very small) skin rashes, irritation, and if wounded by it, can cause large, painful blisters for gliders. And thank you for the suggestion of stating more of what I was looking for. I should've done that, and I will certainly remember that for next time. I've decided to go with some air purifying plants instead of a tree, due to construction in the building and what definitely smells like formaldehyde lingering everywhere. Thank you all for your suggestions and time.

Citrus will work indoors. But not really any conifers other than the semitropical Norfolk Island pine (Araucaria heterophylla) - most conifers are temperate climate plants and are not suited as houseplants and even those trained as bonsai need time outdoors. Otherwise you can look at any number of palms, bananas, fiddle leaf or benjamin figs or a pachira (money tree). FWIW, figs are very popular large growing houseplants.

Hey all, starting a new thread here to avoid completely hijacking the one I initially posted some questions in. I just got a 2-3 year old Meyer lemon tree that is about 3 feet tall, and I'm looking to grow it fully indoors in my apartment. I understand this may not be ideal but I do have decent sized south-facing windows that get a lot of light, so I'm hopeful I can manage to get at least a handful of lemons. Picture of the setup is below, this weekend I'll move it upstairs where I have the same windows with all 3 shades always open. It's honestly looking a bit sad currently, the branches are much more droopy than when I first got it (and it was shipping in a box for an entire week). The blossoms are drying out, one fell off this morning. I just picked up an IR thermometer, with my thermostat reading 75 the soil temp is 60 and top of the leaves is 66, seems like an OK difference to me but I'm not sure what's ideal. Haven't repotted yet, it's in a 5 gallon plastic pot for now and I'm looking at moving it to a 5 or 7 gallon fabric pot when my new soil is delivered on Saturday. Looking for tips or anything else that would be useful to measure, I want this tree to be the best it can be (without needing an insane amount of maintenance) and I'm not afraid to get scientific with it. Thanks to everyone who has helped me so far and to anyone else who takes the time to read and respond!