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Lawn Boy Silver Series 2 vs 4 cycle

16 years ago

I love my Lawn Boy '94 4 cycle Silver Series model 10302 like the son I never had, but I'm not confident I'm capable of doing the most routine maintenence, which it needs badly. In spite of my neglect, it was still running great until my daughter borrowed it and it stopped. If I can trade it toward a '96 Silver Series 10304 2 cycle, cleaned up with new seals,rings, bearings, drive belt and carb kit are their differences, other than needing to mix gas and oil, that will keep me from loving this one as much? Thank you so much.

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Comments (7)

canguy
16 years ago
I still prefer the 2 cycle but I am old school. The major difference is that you will no longer need to change the oil. The 2 stroke still needs regular maintenance. Do you mind the smell of it's exhaust?
sharonskips
Original Author
16 years ago
Thanks, canguy. I didn't notice any significant exhaust smell with the 4 cycle-- the mixed gas/oil makes a big difference? Does either have a better reputation for reliability?
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OK guys, this is what I found out after cleaning and observing, hopefully this will help others to catch this before it ruins their mower. After cleaning and then pouring the cleaning solution through a strainer I found the small thrust bearing rollers where they failed and got into the intake and sucked into the cylinder, thus scoring the cylinder. So that is what ruined my cylinder. The lower crank bearing nearest blade end was worn out due to it's being too small for the job. This was a self propel and the pressure of the belt tension pulls on the bearing, this wore the bearing out and wore the goove in the shaft. A larger bearing would have prevented this, but I guess one motor for both self propel and push mower was cheaper. You can check this by grasping the blade and shaft and see if there is any excessive back and forth play. Not sure if other models are built this way or if the Toro's are the same, but you sould check this every few years by tearing down and checking the bearing. Something I would never have thought of. This was a shame, mower looked as clean inside as outside, so all the care I took didn't prevent failure. I have to just hope the extra care I took made it last as long as it did. I'm now in the process of finding some good used parts or engine. Sure I could probably put a new bearing on the worn shaft, hone out a lot of the scratches, leaving some deep scores, put in new piston and rings and it would probably work for awhile, but I don't work like that. Too much blow by trash would gum up the intake side if I did that and suck it into the cylinder as it's all shared with exhaust, intake and crank valley. Thanks for all the advice provided!
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Since this never got resolved, I was just curious - when it stops and appears to be hot, does it still pull about the same when you're trying to start it or does it seem to be nearly stuck? If it still pulls freely, it's probably not severely overheated. The spark plug in that 'V' engine should be black, not look like it was in a 4-cycle. 'V' engines should be set-up to run 'rich' like the legendary Lawn-Boys. I would look for an air leak in the intake tract, like at the carb base. It might show up more when the mower gets hot. With the mower running, Spray WD-40 on the suspected areas to see if you hit the air leak - the engine will change when you do. Another prime suspect will be the crankshaft seals. These mowers were old even in 2010 when this thread started and they should have had these seals and possibly the lower bearing replaced already. A 2-cycle has to have a sealed crankcase to run. It gets pressurized when the piston goes down and it draws a vacuum when the piston goes up. If a seal leaks, the engine will tend to 'lean-out' or not run at all. Along those lines, the crankcase is in two parts with a sealant in the parting line. That could leak too. At least with the 'V', you don't have to worry about the head gasket - the head/cylinder is one-piece. But check the threads in the spark plug hole to make sure it's not sucking air there. That's about all I have except for possible scored/burnt cylinder/piston.
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"Curiouser and curiouser. We have read for years on here that the 16:1 was because of bushings rather than roller bearings, now it's no longer true. Okay, then what is the reason for 16:1 (I have no idea why I care, since I will never own one)?" You will note that I say the BOTTOM bushing. The D400 had needle bearings on the top end. The switch in mix spec came when they went to the 2 ring piston AND the needle bearings on the wrist pin end of the connecting rod, perhaps this was the bushing others were referring to which you may have misinterpreted. These parts can be interchanged and I have done it often only the connecting rod with needle bearings on the wrist pin end must be used with the 2 ring piston. As for never owning one, reminds me of someone I know who says he will never own a Ford. Surely most people know that the bottom bushing continued thru the D600 series which used 32:1 mix and all of these LBs had the mix written on them though in early years it was a decal which eventually became illegible. Some had the mix molded into the shroud. I would note that there is a difference between "needle bearings" and "roller bearings". LB, until DuraForce, used needle bearings unless it was the "M" with which I am not familiar. As I have said before on this and other lists, if you are uncertain what mix you should use, clean your exhaust ports and while you are at it, count how many rings are on the piston as you look thru the clean exhaust ports. Three rings = 16:1, 2 rings = 32:1. Walt Conner
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rdaystrom
16 years ago
Lawn-Boy is known for the 2 cycle engine and built it's reputation on it for decades. Keep a new blade on it or resharpen it yourself often. You need to clean and re-oil the air filter more than once a year. Do it at least twice or three times per season. A new plug once a year is good advice and use gasoline stabilizer in your gas. Using a synthetic 2 cycle oil will eliminate 99% of the smoke and the carbon build up as well. Do not loan the mower to anyone without strict instructions on refueling with the proper gas/oil mix. Even then someone else could inadvertently add some straight gas and it's over.
indy452
16 years ago
Sharon, How do you know that the seals and rings etc, have been replaced?
Why would someone want a non-running four cycle lawnboy for a what sounds like a rebuilt two cycle lawnboy?

The 10304 will be considerably louder. You will have to maintain this machine better than that of a four stroke engine. Two cycle engines are reliable and easy to start when maintained well.

I'm not trying to tear you down from this but you need to be aware of these things if you never owned a two cycle engine before.

Let us know what you decide.

Neal
1saxman
16 years ago
That's a 'V' engine - they are known to be very maintenance-intensive. Not Toro's best effort for a 2-cycle mower engine. Not knowing if the interior engine work was done by a professional, I'd pass on it.
lawnboystu
16 years ago
I read a review of my 10323 mower at Amazon before I bought it and a guy that reviewed it also tried the four stroke and said it had a higher center of gravity and it wouldn't mow as good as the two cycle when clearance counted.
reader161_hotmail_com
12 years ago
Just got one. It works great. I Recamend it.

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