follow up:

I just got it to run for about 15 seconds after sitting 24 hours, seemed very slow, then kind of popped, ran a few seconds more then died. will not start again. It's not unusual to pop when it's cold (maybe not a pop, but a buck). Primer bulb is working good.

Starting fluid on a 2 stroke is a no no.50 PSI not enough.Suggest you replace the rings and maybe check the piston and seals.

Check your crankshaft seals on bottom and top. On a 2-cycle they must hold compression and vacuum as the engine is self-supercharging. Your 'V' engine is definitely old enough to need new seals. Starting fluid is a no-no because it has no oil in it. If the engine doesn't start, the rings may rust to the iron cylinder sleeve because all the oil is washed away. 50 psi is definitely low, but oil the cylinder and try again.

piston and rings are $42, they said I would have to purchase gaskets, seals seperate prices, they don't have a rebuild kit. I guess I need to tear down and see how bad the cylinder is before rebuilding though. Didn't think about starting fluid problems.

will try oiling up the rings and cylinder first and try compression again, could be dry and loosing compression. Let you know.

poured a little oil in it and tried compression again, still 50 PSI, took less pulls to get it there. Seals show no leakage, but can't see them real close with out pulling flywheel, etc. Tear down time, I guess. Been scouring web for parts. Any recommendations for good source of parts on web?

A lot of starting fluid has top cylinder lube in it. Read the label

OK, tore it down. Looks like the bottom crank seal was leaking. The bearing in that area is very loose and has very noticeable play in it, maybe 1/16 play back and forth. Running my finger nail in that area there is a noticeable groove on crank where bearing sits. Is the crank savageable or does it need replacing? Also piston is scored on left and right side, cylinder also. Not the bottom or top. Is the cylinder boreable and oversize piston available or use new stock piston and hone out what I can? Looks like two rings on piston and back one is froze the one closest crank, front one fell out in my hand, but was not broke. If all this is savageable, should I replace: piston, rings, all bearings and thrust washers, seals and gaskets of course. First time into a small engine, need advice. I can also obtain short block for about $200, but willing to service this one if salvageable.
Thanks for advice so far, need some more.

Junk it and buy another used one for around $50 they are every-where or buy a 4 cycle used mower for $50 should last a life-time if oil is changed every year. later

I have a 4 stroke also, 10313, I think, it's down also. Have not tore it down yet. It's oiling the plug pretty good. Always took very good care of it in air filter and oil change area. One day it was running fine and next it was oiling the plug, I figured it broke a ring or oil ring. Since I'm a novice at this, have not dug into it yet. Mower still looks like new outside. Self propel no longer works, lawn boy seems weak in that area.

OK guys, this is what I found out after cleaning and observing, hopefully this will help others to catch this before it ruins their mower.
After cleaning and then pouring the cleaning solution through a strainer I found the small thrust bearing rollers where they failed and got into the intake and sucked into the cylinder, thus scoring the cylinder. So that is what ruined my cylinder.

The lower crank bearing nearest blade end was worn out due to it's being too small for the job. This was a self propel and the pressure of the belt tension pulls on the bearing, this wore the bearing out and wore the goove in the shaft. A larger bearing would have prevented this, but I guess one motor for both self propel and push mower was cheaper. You can check this by grasping the blade and shaft and see if there is any excessive back and forth play.

Not sure if other models are built this way or if the Toro's are the same, but you sould check this every few years by tearing down and checking the bearing. Something I would never have thought of.

This was a shame, mower looked as clean inside as outside, so all the care I took didn't prevent failure. I have to just hope the extra care I took made it last as long as it did.

I'm now in the process of finding some good used parts or engine. Sure I could probably put a new bearing on the worn shaft, hone out a lot of the scratches, leaving some deep scores, put in new piston and rings and it would probably work for awhile, but I don't work like that. Too much blow by trash would gum up the intake side if I did that and suck it into the cylinder as it's all shared with exhaust, intake and crank valley.

Thanks for all the advice provided!

I have a lawn boy model 10301. I don't know if this will help anyone out there but my mower didn't seem to have any compression and was running extremely slow. I replaced the air filter, sorely needed, and cleaned out the exhaust ports. Now it is running like a champ. The exhaust ports, three of them, were so clogged that my hubby needed to use a metal dental pick to get the crud out. Now I am just waiting on the new muffler, which my neighbors will appreciate, and the new baffle.

The 'V' engine will wear out the stamped steel muffler cover every few years, but is a quiet performer when the muffler is in good condition. Try Homelite 'Exact Mix' synthetic blend oil at 50:1 to eliminate exhaust port/muffler clogging. If the muffler cover is in good shape but leaks around the edges, use a large washer under each of the three bolts. Make sure the blade does not hit the bolt heads.