Southern Highbush usually do not have any Rabbiteye in them, but a few do (Sharpblue is one that does). Most SH are derived from Darrow's Blueberry (V. darrowii), a low-chill species from northern Florida, that was crossed with Bluecrop to produce a rare hybrid named Florida 4B. This hybrid is the basis of probably >90% of all SH cultivars. Rabbiteye blueberries are hexaploid and Highbush are tetraploid, but they will cross-pollinate to some extent as long as the bloom period overlaps. Highbush will usually pollinate Rabbiteyes better than than the other way, but I would not count on it being enough. Just about all SH are now self-fertile, and the newer releases of Rabbiteyes are also self-fertile, but most older Rabbiteyes will need cross-pollination with another Rabbiteye for good fruit set and large fruit.

TheDerek makes a good point. You wouldn't necessarily need any special equipment to root blueberry cuttings. I think misters are normally used, but I've rooted cuttings with some success -- not 100% but with a few extra cuttings I was plenty happy with 1 in 3 -- with nothing more than a good potting mix carefully dampened and a clear plastic bag to keep the cuttings from drying out with indirect sunlight. Layering (bending a bendable young branch down and covering a part of it to grow roots, plus possibly scarring/wounding it) might be another very simple option that could work for you. Or simplest of all, you might have a natural runner you could just separate.

Ed, It all comes down to the level of snow, as Brady said, not only as an insulator but a reflector. I guess all the sun on the pots could be an issue, but I haven't observed that effect. I suspect that if they have the moisture in the rootzone, they stay relatively frozen. Also, if they're on the north side of the building it dips to -25, + winds with no snow cover, I suspect you'd have a bunch of dessicated twigs. Anybody see any factors we may have overlooked?

Hopsalot, Great name btw:) Switching to the Helena fertilizer is a move you won't regret. At $12.70 per #50 bag it is a great deal and a lot easier to apply than the Miracle grow. We picked up our yearly supply last week for the BB and citrus. The application rate per monthly application is 1 oz for first year plants, 2 oz for 2 year olds and 3 ounces for 3+ year old plants. Your plants if they grew well last year would get the 2 ounce dose. 2 ounces is 1/4 cup btw. That is the basic guide but let your judgment rule the way. Basically you look at the plant and can judge if it needs more nitrogen....it is a bit of a learning curve. The leaves should be vibrant green and seem big..you are shooting for 3"+ leaves. Small leaves are an indication you can up your dose. If you are mulching your plants with something other than pinebark you have to adjust the amount upwards some. Let the plants guide you. Watch for tiny red spots on the leaves which is an indication they want more nitrogen. Looks like a sprinkling of paprika on young leaves. Larger red spots mean something different and occurs later in the year. You can still use the miracle grow acid formula also. I use it every two weeks at 1/4 listed strength as a foliar spray. Make sure you hit the underside of the leaves as that is where most of the stomata are located and it is best to do so first thing in the morning when it is cooler as beyond 80 degrees most of the receptors are closed. Feb to Oct yep. Keep the fertilizer away from the stem and apply evenly around the drip line. What kind of plants did you put in? Whether or not to remove some buds is a judgement call and is based on the vigor of the plants growth last year and the number of fruit buds it now has. Can you post some pictures? Make sure you water the plants well Saturday afternoon and that should help protect them from the cold. If the forecast is above 28 they should be fine.