Agree that they definitely aren't squash bugs or even squash bug nymphs. Those are easy to rule out from your description/information. But without seeing them it is just one of a hundred or more possibilities. Look up pics of aphids and thrips for example for comparison. As the squash grows, the ones with these bugs in the blooms eventually start turning brown at the tips and then the bloom or growing squash will just fall off. That could be just coincidence due to lack of pollination and age of the bloom but no way to know for sure. Are these male or female blooms the bugs are in or both? Reason I ask is some pests will only go after the pollen in the male blooms. Dave Here is a link that might be useful: Common Squash and Cuke Pests

Ah, a fellow houndlover. You've come to the right place. there's so much to cover. Type in the search space 'blueberries' as there are lots of interesting and pertinent posts bound to help you out. I assume your soil is not acid enough. granulated sulfur will provide long term help, but you prolly need some ammonium sulfate. I suspect your water is also hard. Are they getting enough water? Moving the plants into full sun will increase production. With the manure you should be rockin' Forget the miracle grow. I quit strawberries. I hate bending over. Mulch the heck out of your blackberries, water 3x a week on everything in this heat. water at base with hose slow soak/3-5 gallons. Sometime when sprinkling, only the top g2" gets wet! I have apache and they love the composted manure. Dont use the fresh manure. Let it compost. Apply in early spring

A compromise might be to prune the oak tree. To get more light to your berries, you can limb up the lower branches and thin out the upper branches. I think that cutting down a tree should always be avoided if at all possible. One benefit of the tree is that its fall leaves will provide an excellent mulch for your bushes every fall. You can pile up the leaves between the bushes to prevent weeds. Before you apply each season's new batch of leaves, you can rake the decomposed leaf mold up near your bushes from the rows between them. You can then pile up all the all the great leaves in the middle. It will save you the cost of buying mulch or hauling it from further away. You might get some competition for water and nutrients between the trees roots and your bushes, but blueberries have very shallow roots that might not be hurt as bad as some other plants. You may find that the plants nearest the tree will need a bit more water and fertilizer.

You need to make sure your soil is acidic enough. Add wetable powdered sulfer if you need to. It will take a few months for it to become stable in the soil. Meanwhile your bushes will not do well. Put about 50 to 75 percent pine bark mini-nuggets as planting medium. They have the acidic content you need and they will help aerate the root zone. My county agent told me to plant above ground in an 8-inch bed of mini-nuggets and ground pine bark soil conditioner. I have a few plants that I'm going to try that with. The county extension offices have a sale in late February to benefit the 4-H clubs. This year they had blueberries, crepe myrtle, deciduous azaleas, and other plants. Very reasonably priced. Call 1-800-ASKUGA1 and you will get your local office. Ask them to put you on their mailing list for the sale next year. Your bushes will be healthier if you pinch off the blooms the first year so the bushes can use their energy to become established, rather than trying to get the few berries that they might produce the first year.