I think the bracket is there. Is it rod shaped? I can see two screws. I was thinking if I unbolted the motor to the frame I could slide it over to the hole in the deck. If I could do that, would I be able to keep what's in there in place, when installing the seal? Or would it be a hassle and a oily mess? I've drained the oil from the drain tube, but I never seem to get much out it.

Another Pic of Old Craftsman, Weed Eater Models I had success with âÂÂBUT WORKâÂÂ! 1. I must â SAY AGAINâÂÂ, they take Time and Interest. I would look for ring movement in the piston vs trying to rotate. 2. Try to feel for piston ringâÂÂs compression with your finger or dowl feeling for drag, rotating slow w/o oil before too much time is spent. 3. This old models which have only had bad fuel lines and carb problems are personally all I plan to touch (in my volunteering mode) vs compression teardown issues. They are normally plentiful at Estate/Garage Sales. My20 + yr old blower was 15.00 with a demo that it worked. 4. Replacing fuel line can almost become a teardown until you learn the tricks of fishing, feeding and pulling line. This was a 70âÂÂs Hobby before moving to Computer Applications/Cad and Comp Repairs as a Hobby to keep my job. Call them Hobbies vs Jobs and they become More Fun vs Nightmares. LOL

ALL current traveling the circuit between the battery side of the starter solenoid and the ignition key switch MUST pass through the fuse and the ammeter. If you can detect 12 volts at the fuse, and 12 volts at the "B" terminal on the ignition key switch...........then you must also be able to detect 12 volts at the ammeter. If you are checking for voltage at the ammeter by connecting your volt meter or a test light to both posts of the ammeter at the same time, you will not detect voltage. To test for voltage at the ammeter, one lead from the volt meter (or test light) must be connected to a ground and the other lead contacting to a post on the ammeter. Testing should show that voltage is present on each post of the ammeter. The ignition key switch does not have to be on to test for voltage at the ammeter. Here is a comprehensive test procedure for testing the starter control circuit of your tractor. Refer to the image below the procedure for a graphic referrence to the steps. For this, a 12 volt test light will probably be easier to use than a volt meter. So that's how I will describe the tests. The battery must be fully charged for these tests to be accurate and you must make sure there are no blown fuses. Clip the ground of the test light lead to a known good ground, negative post of battery is ok. Confirm the test light works by touching the probe of the light to the battery positive post. If light works, proceed to tests. You might want/need a helper to turn the key switch if you have short arms. Lock the brake pedal and make sure the PTO switch or, or other engaging method is not engaged. Step 1 Find the "S" terminal on the back of the key switch (a white wire). Insert the probe of the test light inside the wire connector where the white wire enters the connector, make certain the probe is deep enough to touch the metal terminal. Turn the key to the START position. The test light should burn. If test light does not burn, replace the key switch. If light burns, go to step 2. Step 2 Touch the probe of the test light to the small white wire on the starter solenoid, turn the key switch to the START position. If the test light burns, the entire control circuit for the starter solenoid is good. If this is the case, move the test light probe over to the large post on the solenoid that has the cable going to the starter. Turn the key switch to START position. If the test light burns now, the starter is faulty, or the cable from solenoid to starter is defective. If the test light does not burn now, the solenoid is faulty. If the first test of the white wire on the solenoid did not cause the test light to burn, go to step 3. Step 3 Find the brake switch and locate the 2 white wires on that switch (there might be 4 wires on the switch, only check the white wires). Turn the key switch to START and hold it in that position. Touch the probe to each white wire. If the test light burns when touched to both wires (one wire at a time of course), the clutch/brake switch is good. This would mean there is an open in the white wire circuit between the brake switch and the PTO switch (the switch on the deck, because you have power on the white wire leaving the brake switch but no power on the same white wire arriving at the solenoid). If you have power showing on just one white wire at the brake switch (with pedal locked down), make sure that the switch is adjusted properly. If adjusting the mounting of the switch does not give power to both wires, replace the brake switch. Now, if you have power at both of the white wires on the brake switch , move on to the PTO switch in step 4. Step 4 Find the white wires on the PTO switch and place the probe on the white wires (one at a time). Turn the key to START. The test light should burn on both white wires. If only one white wire has no power on it when in START position, replace the PTO switch. If you have power on both wires here, but not at the starter solenoid, there is a break in the wire between the PTO switch and the starter solenoid.

So guess what? I actually mowed the other day! It was only for about 15 minutes because my right rear tire won't hold air for any longer than that. I noticed that, in spite of having been doused with belt dressing, the drive belt still slips and it's worse after it gets warm. So I've ordered a new drive belt and a tube for the tire. Gosh, after that I think all that would remain is to rig some sort of cup holder. ;-) Actually I will have to address the steering. It turns more sharply to the left than to the right. But that seems like a comparatively minor issue. The front wheel bearings will also need attention at some point. Also, the Motion Control Lever seems to be out of adjustment. Don't know if the lever itself is bent or if it's simply an adjustment that needs to be done. But it still mostly works.