Since the plant must drain, the closure of the drainage hole(s) by its roots must be seen as trouble. It does appear the plant is crying out for a re-potting and since it is causing problems, the need to wait until spring sunshine is not what it should be waiting for; re-pot now. Make sure the soil drains well...but does retain some moisture. For that, possible use of a heavier than usual percentage of peat moss might be considered. It holds on to moisture longer and mixed with any of the good mediums....vermiculite, coarse sand, perlite and potting soil/mix the plant might do better. Repotting of course is going to show what extent the roots are in. If you are considering a total re-soiling, then I suggest you remove all the old soil, wash the roots clean and inspect for any sign of damage there. A barrier between the drainage holes and the soil will prevent somewhat the reoccurrence of the roots making it to the drainage holes. Stones of size, or shards of clay might be used. I like the broken clay shards because they leave important spaces so that water can drain well, yet block the path of soil that can plug up the hole. Go up one size only...repotting to a pot too large for the roots---even tho they have expanded--can cause future problems. Its alright to remove what roots are superfluous. Ferns, generally all, like their water and they can sometimes drop a measure of debris that makes the plant or the floor its sitting on, unsightly. But, in winter, even ferns don't grow all that much and need less water. A constant vigil by testing the soil dampness is one way to avoid underwatering/overwatering. Ferns too appreciate light....just not direct light. Give your plant more than usual at this time but give it a filter when the time comes the light intensity resumes. Mid February is the time we usually allow that plants begin to start growing. Its the time that geraniums and their ilk, come out of their cool storage to resume their voyage to summr sun. Until April tho, the sun takes its time to come up to light that influences greatly plants in windows and on window sills. Common sense should prevail. When it does begin to put on new growth in earnest, the time to begin feeding can resume. Fertilize every 3rd or 4th watering.

County Extension Agent agreed that you were correct: skeletonizing from a small fly (I think he said) & to treat with BT next spring! So far (!) he said the Japanese beetle has not been found here...yet! I hadn't noticed any bugs on the plants or around it, but I may not have looked closely or missed them. The one cluster of grapes from these new 8 ft. shoots from the base is small but have hopes they ripen so I can taste them. I understand home grown Red Flames won't get as large as store-bought as commercial growers are allowed to spray with something to get larger fruit. Thanks for your help!

Thank you Sue, your honest evaluation really helps. That "old lilac" fragrance in this case is very important, so that definitely tips the balance back to the dwarf Korean lilacs. I noticed that the Tinkerbelle is hard to find, could that be an indication that it's more of a collector's plant? I won't rule out trying it, but am really looking for a reliable workhorse in this case. More's the pity, I was really hoping for pink. Jasper, we're close to Chicago, and have noticed how well Korean lilacs do here. In your experience, do you remember how far apart you spaced them? I only have 12 feet, so I was thinking 3 would fit nicely, but I've noticed they're usually spaced rather more closely than that. Is that to make a tighter hedge?

It was a *really* strange spring around here before it had a chance to be a strange summer..... We had mid-June temps in April/mid-May. We had some July-temp spells in mid-late May. Everything that is temp-regulated instead of day-length-regulated was up, and growing, and starting to bloom *way* early. We had a few spells of days of August weather in June. And are supposed to get some more over the next week, the first week in July.... Everything is behaving oddly.