My carpenter skills aren't all that great, so I looked around for some kind of do-it-yourself kit. The closest thing was a chain link dog kennel - ordered through the Internet. It comes in sections of 4 x 6 metal frames (4 pieces), and the chain link to wrap around, plus the hardware to clamp it all together. While it has a door, I would have preferred that the door had been a rectangle instead of oval, as it leaves openings at the corners (rats, mice, etc.). So I fashioned a piece of plywood to cover the door for added security, held with a bungee cord - works ok. I laid 2 sections of galvanized wire on the ground, placed the cage on top and secured all around the sides of the frame. Then wrapped the entire cage in galvanized 1/2 inch wired all around the outside, leaving top open. For the top, I found 3 pieces of corrugated paneling that was placed across the top. I just held these down with blocks - so that if necessary, they could be removed for easier access. After the frame work, I installed one of my cedar raised bed planter boxes, filled with nice compost (lucky hens), where they can scratch in the dirt, dust feathers, etc., and covered with straw (changing from time to time). For added night time protection and egg laying, I happened to have an unused rabbit cage, with a hinged top. It is about 3 x 3 x 2 ft. deep, filled with straw where they can get extra weather protection and for nesting. They immediately began using the top of the rabbit cage for their "porta-potty" area, making it easy to scrape clean every day, keeping the rest of the area clean of most droppings. I have a hose connection nearby - where most of the composting is done anyway, so filling waterers are easy. Also keep feed and tools handy nearby in a plastic garbage can that has wheels on it. All-in-all, this has proved to be a fairly decent set-up, though I would have liked the cage to be "person-high" - as it is only 4 ft., I felt I could make the sacrifice, as that gave the hens a bit more inside room, having the 6 ft. wide sections for their needs. So - for what it's worth, that is how I made mine, in the "burbs" but I, too, am limited to hens - don't want to disrupt the neighborhood peace and quiet. Cuz, if I do, they might notice my bee hive - yikes! Bejay

Our GC had a wonderful exercise for us. His assignment even before we met was to have DH & me write out our top 20 items/ideas for the house (in order of importance). We did this seperarately w/o knowing each other's top 20. We then brought this list to GC on our first meeting. This enabled him to get the big picture. We also took these lists to the architect. Along with this list, was a photo of what we desired & a layout we thought we liked. As the process has developed, all of our smaller, nitpicky items have come out. GC has appreciated the thought process that I've put into it all. He said it has made everything move smoothly. In the end, I will have less daily choices to make. Although I did SO much research prior to all of our meetings, I have welcomed GC's ideas & knowledge, as well. Afterall, we are hiring him for his skills, knowledge, & expertise. He has been doing this 30+ years & I have only just recently begun this process. I definitely would not go into this seeming like a total know-it-all or you will make GC's life quite unpleasant. Also, in all honesty, about 90% of our desires for our home, GC had already planned for, so I would really be looking for the best GC you can find.

I don't think the pulls need to match the appliances and faucet. I have a small kitchen...lyptus wood for the lowers, painted white uppers, white farm house sink, stainless steel appliances, and a brushed nickle faucet. My pulls are all oil rubbed bronze. I think it all works together fine.

You should not put true recessed lighting in a ceiling that is right below the attic. The new LED disk lights do not have the problems that traditional recessed lighting does. https://structuretech1.com/recessed-lights-are-evil/