I know it's an old thread, but I came across it and felt I could add something for other people wondering the same thing. Wow, so ok, this thread is... very interesting? Went from somewhat helpful to nursery bashing lol. There are four ways to control vigor/ size in a tree: Precocity, spacing, dwarfing rootstocks, and pruning out large branches. You can plant them 2ft apart in the row and 8ft alleys as a spindle if you want, or 20 ft apart as an open vase if you want (hint: the spindle is going to yield more than the vase per acre). The biggest thing to maximizing yields is maximizing bearing surface and light interception per acre. I use dual-leader UFO (upright fruiting offshoot) training for everything now. UFO was originally developed for spur-fruiting species (apples, plums, pears, cherries), but it can be modified to work with tip and year-old-growth bearing species (some apples, peaches, apricots). You just have to space out your uprights more and allow for limited lateral branching. For peaches, I plant trees 8 feet apart in row, with 7ft alleys (I use a TYM 234 tractor). I plant the trees at roughly a 45 degree angle. I allow the uprights on the primary leader to grow (keep terminal bud upright), and select one below the bottom cordon to train as the second leader. I then remove the other buds below the bottom wire. By the end of 1st leaf, you should have both leaders tied to the wire, and mostly filled the space between trees, you've pruned off the pendant shoots, and you should have some fruiting wood for next year. In the winter, tip back the fruit sticks and eliminate damaged/crowded wood. second leaf- limited fruiting possible, focus on establishing your uprights roughly every 10 inches (6 inches for spur bearing species) and finish filling in the space. Eliminate pendant wood, shoots sticking outside of the vertical plane, and any uprights beyond your "permanent" ones in late summer, after any harvest (limited regrowth that way). Next year's fruiting wood is now on the upright shoots. Tip back the fruit sticks and eliminate damaged/crowded fruiting wood. Third Leaf- should definitely get fruit, goal is to get your upright shoots to the top wire (which for a should be roughly 75% of your alley width, IMO). Same kind of pruning as previous years. At some point, your laterals are going to start to grow together, at that point, you need to do renewal pruning in the winter back to a bud near the upright. Once your uprights get to about 1.25x your alley width, head the uprights back to on bud above the top wire (otherwise you'll shade the bottom of the next row). As uprights approach 3/4 to 1 inch diameter at the base, take the largest one every year down to one bud above the leader (unlike apples and cherries, peaches don't regenerate as readily, so you need to give it the best chance). All renewal type pruning should be done before budbreak, to encourage vigorous regrowth.

Honestly I don't think you want to do this. Not only is it a waste of time and energy to double process them but the double processing - freezing-thawing-canning-BWB processing is going to really affect the quality. Mushy peaches. If you have to get them out of the freezer for space reasons then I'd turn them into something where the mushy texture won't matter as much - jams, chutneys, mixed with tomatoes for salsa, even syrup. But if you decide to do it then yeah they need to be thawed first. But rather than hot pack I think I'd use raw pack so the heat exposure is reduced. Dave Here is a link that might be useful: Raw pack peaches instructions NCHFP

Just as with all the other forums, within a certain time frame - I think it is 30-45 minutes - you cannot post an immediate follow-up with out changing the subject line. The software sees it as a duplicate post otherwise. All you have to do is change the subject line in any way that the follow-up post will go up. But yes, as explained a couple of times in your other thread, once frozen and then thawed and exposed to air, they will turn brown as you have already discovered with the ones you thawed. The others will be no different. Sorry. You can still use them if you wish. They will be mushy anyway so smoothies would be a good solution but not the safest given their age. Cooking them in some fashion would be safer in case of any bacterial contamination. Because of the high sugar content, bacteria proliferate rapidly as they thaw. Thus the suggestions to make cranberry-peach jam or some other form of fruit-peaches syrup or peach-apple pies. etc. Combining them with other fruits and seasonings resolves the discoloration problems and the loss of flavor and the cooking makes them safer to eat when they are so old. You will find a number of questionable info sources on the web when it comes to home food preservation. The only tested and USDA certified source and the one we here recommend you stick with is the National Center for Home Food Preservation - NCHFP. I linked it below. Another reptuable source is the Ball Blue Book of Home Food Preservation. The recommendations of those sources are regarded as the best authorities. A search here will pull up many previous discussions on how to freeze peaches and other fresh fruit as well as NCHFP. Dave Here is a link that might be useful: NCHFP

magnaverde!! I love this look.. are they on rings (I can't see rings). I hate how ties can bunch up, but the fishing line is a great idea. My curtains are hung... but this gives me another option to try. I certainly have been know to do finish something, only to take it apart and try something else! So please let me know how they are hanging on the rods! The main thing I didn't want to do is block the water view. I left the windows naked for the past four months.. and although I loved the wide open view, I open felt the house felt a little naked, and un-lived in. I like the open weave linen, they are sheer enough not to block the view much, but last night and this morning, it made me feel like I had a shirt on..lol. Before (don't look at the green chair & table by sofa - they will be changed) From curtains dressed with sheers From curtains From curtains From curtains