Ah, I think I've identified my mystery insects. From all accounts of various insects that love compost, they appear to be springtails, though I haven't challenged any to spring. There are some that don't. Apparently in large numbers, they can harm the roots of plants, but I don't think I have that many. They seem to be only at one end of the bed in an area about 1' x 4'. I didn't see any at all in other parts of the bed. ===== [They] Occur in soil in house plants and around the home and can be a nuisance when numerous. Occasionally large numbers of springtails occur in greenhouse crops where they can injure young plants. Some species injure sprouting seeds, roots and tender shoots, occasionally causing concern in greenhouses, seedbeds and mushroom beds. They are harmless to man and animals. ===== So now my only worry is if I've put a great enough soil barrier around my strawberry plant roots to protect them from the compost, which is obviously still being worked on by critters. Here is a link that might be useful: A Springtail nymph

There are several members of the Scarab Beetle family, japanese Beetles are one, that lay eggs in the soil that become these "C" shaped grubs we are all taught to hate with a passion. Research at several universities has found that if the population of the grubs is around 10 per square foot you can have a problem but that fewer then 5 per square foot are not. The adult beetles lay the eggs in July and August and they hatch and are then very susceptible to Milky Spore Disease, "Bacillus popilleae" which they must ingest as they feed. As the soil cools these grubs will move down further into the soil for the winter and they stop feeding, but in the spring, as the soil warms, they come back toward the surface to feed for a short time before they pupate to become the adult beeltes. Milky Spore Disease is effective, for a short time during the early stages of these grubs life, shortly after they hatch so it should be applied in early August, at the latest. Milky Spore Disease is also a very passive means of control. You put it down and then hope the grubs find it and ingest it, which is why those that need immediate gratification find it not vey effective. Beneficial nematodes, which eat the grubs can be applied about the same time or a little later. GrubX is not an acceptable organic solution because it is a broad spectrum poison that will kill many of the soil insects, both beneficial and harmful.

There are beneficial nematodes you can buy specifically for grub control - kind of pricey. I used them 3 years ago and haven't had to repeat and only have a few June bugs flying when it's their time to fly. When I see that they are getting abundant I will repeat. Not all grubs in the lawn are June beetle grubs. Some are other beetles, many of which are beneficial. There are websites that give pretty specific pictures of the different grubs so you can identify, but I'm not inclined to inspect them that closely. As far as cinch bugs, I haven't had the pleasure, so can't really advise anything for them.

It was sodded back in October of 2009 and has been doing well since, with some grub problem a few yrs ago, I got right on that w bayer in Fall and then I put a spring application every spring w grub ex so...Just going to wait I Guess...idk why the area is shallow rooted and comes up so easy one little area and rest don't but a few brown areas by the split rail fence...in the corner only idk? Lol anything can go wrong w grass and it sucks, but thankfully I have a nice lawn and keep up on it, I don't or will never let it Go dormant I like looking at green not brown lawns in the summer we had NO rain here in Pittsburgh all summer, so I watered a lot, mostly around 5-7 when the sun was off my lawn and across the street