Black Knot resistant prune plum?

User

10 years ago

Finding Black Knot on my Stanley, I'm minded to plant a replacement tree now in case treatment fails. Any suggestions?

President is mentioned by some sources. What's the taste of that one?

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Comments (4)

alan haigh
10 years ago
I've noticed little problem with Italian plums I manage but what makes you think treatment will likely fail? For me cutting out black knot is a regular part of my rounds and most trees don't get overwhelmed with infection. Stanley is not the most susceptible of plums I manage by a long shot.

You should plant another plum for sweeter fruit, though. Stanley falls off the tree before it gets full sugar. Never grew President so can't report on that.
User
Original Author
10 years ago
This tree is gradually being overtaken by the shade of a neighbor's tree, which I think makes it prone to disease.

If the treatment does fail, I'd like to have another tree already to fruit. And for the variety.
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Reviewing this topic again after five years. I have about 20 plum trees now in my orchard, many of them large mature trees at this point. Control of black knot has remained one of the big challenges for plum growing here. Chemical control for black knot is best achieved with early spring sprays - first white to shuck split, and I like to use just one antifungal in my early sprays, and this has for a number of years been myclobutanil. The problem is that myclobutanil has no activity against black knot. I prefer to avoid chlorothalonil, mancozeb and captan for toxicity reasons, though each has activity against black knot. An alternative is propiconazole, which I usually reserve for rot later in the season in case resistance has formed to the myclobutanil, but instead plan to substitute for the myclobutanil in my early sprays as my primary antifungal and so address the black knot issue chemically while remaining with just one antifungal in my early regimen.
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I would question any table if I didn't know how they came up with their evaluations (well, it if contradicted my own experience, that is). Maybe it is a question of state, but in the sites I manage Methely is much more susceptible than any of the many plums growing- this includes over 20 different varieties, including Damson. In my nursery I have Methely growing with other varieties and over the years it is so hard to manage for black knot that I'm not going offer it anymore. You can see all the extra wounds in this variety from cutting, cutting , cutting. In home orchards there is usually some sun blockage and if this occurs from the east the equation will be much different than on any university testing site. I have 3 Damsons on a site with good exposure and it doesn't suffer more than other plums there. However, on that site Methely doesn't suffer a whole lot either although a bit more than the Damsons. But then, I've resisted Damson's tendency to be a dense upright growing tree- a form that makes drying difficult. You cannot know about how easy or hard black knot is to manage unless you have managed it at multiple sites. There is huge variability on the problem that often can't even be explained by sun exposure or nearby native cherries.
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You asked: "Jean, would you like to comment any further about why Black Knot isn't normally a problem in this climate?" I was quoting what I found in the PNW Disease Handbook which is edited/written by a plant pathologist knowledgeable about PNW problems. The underlying reasons for a lack of certain diseases is always related to the elements of the Disease Triangle. All three items -- susceptible host; the disease-causing organism; and a suitable environment -- must be present if disease is to occur. If one is missing, disease doesn't occur. Only once have I seen black knot on a garden tree hereabouts. Then, when I spoke with the gardener in detail, I learned it was a situation similar to yours -- the disease came with the plant. In that case, it was a mail-order bareroot tree. As for your other question -- "Does that mean that if I remove this scion and don't see any further symptoms for a couple of years that I can consider my yard safe?" -- I suggest you seriously consider jellyman's opinion. He's more familiar with black knot than I am.
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Both 2 and 3 will not be helpful. Even the most affective synth fungicides have limited efficacy against this disease but chlorathalinal is said to be helpful although it's hard to tell in my experience. It certainly doesn't make a big difference. You needn't treat with alcohol between wounds if you cut to clean wood. Next year cut out knots as they occur. Keep plum growing with good vigor.
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alan haigh
10 years ago
The main thing is eastern sun to dry the tree off in the morning.

I recommend Valor as it ripens later than Stanley and ripens into a wonderful plum. Much more productive here than Italian- 3X the size and more plums. Also more sugar (probably because the size makes the flesh to skin ratio much higher).

I'm still picking them from my two trees- its picking season can last at least a month if you only pick ripe plums.

Adams has it.
User
Original Author
10 years ago
Thanks. Alas, eastern sun is exactly what this tree increasingly doesn't get. Establishing another in a better location seems the way to go.

And if I'm doing this, I'd prefer a variety that resists black knot, in case it might spread from the Stanley.

This post was edited by ltilton on Wed, Sep 25, 13 at 13:56

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Black Knot resistant prune plum?

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alan haigh

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Black Knot resistant prune plum?

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alan haigh

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