A1. Yes the longer the better, but do not let it go to seed which it does quite quickly. A2. Yes and they are prolific seed producers. In addition they also reproduce by underground roots called rhizomes. A3. Seed your grass? If you are in SE Oklahoma you most likely have hybrid Bermuda, and there is no seed. If you have Bermuda, don't worry about it, it repairs itself quite quickly. Dallis grass is extremely difficult to control. MSMA is the best post-emergence to use on it but not real effective. The absolute best post-mergence control is to dig them out while they are young before the send out rhizomes. MSMA will kill the visible clump, but not the rhizomes. Preventing it from happening is the best control by using Pre-emergnce herbicides, but you are way too late for that.

Most organic fertilizers provide everything the plant needs. You could fine tune it I suppose but I definitely don't. Morpheuspa is an advocate of winterizing the lawn at the end of fall. The end of fall is defined as that moment when you notice the grass has stopped growing but is not dormant yet. In Florida that day may never come if you continue fertilizing and watering weekly. I know in San Antonio it is a rare (cold) winter when we cannot maintain a St Augustine lawn all through the year. Most people choose to let it go dormant, but you don't have to. I would think in FL it would be a very rare time. If you want to winterize, use a fast release fertilizer that is heavy on the N value and much lighter on the other values. I believe he uses an uncoated urea product. If you are mowing at your mower's highest setting, the bermuda should be fading out. It does not like to compete with the tall, coarse, St Augustine blades.

newly, nothing you can do about the weed killer component at this point. There's a difference between "winterizer" and "winter guard" as you've discovered. Keep the lawn moist as with the cool temps we've had, KBG is going to try your patience so try and get all the germination you can get. The rain my have washed away some of the 2,4D but it's hard to say how much of the germination will be inhibited. Once we get the first really hard frost, give your entire lawn a feeding of 10-10-10. The roots will take up the Phosphorus and in spring you'll have a healthy lawn ready for action. You can get a soil test in the spring to nail down your lime requirements but I'll bet $$$$$$$$$$$$$ that it's low. Gary, you live in CHI town. I live in New England, not far from the OP. We get substantial annual rainfall and have acidic soil. Generalities are a downfall of this site. My advice is spot on so I'll respectfully disagree with you. The OP's descriptions are a sure sign of low pH with no time to be waiting two+ weeks for soil test results. Once you look at a lot of grass and compare it to soil results you learn.... You can have all the iron in the world in your soil and a low pH will stop the plant (grass) from using it. In New England if you get your pH right, you can almost ignore all the other soil parameters outright. The one exception is current production packaging with "phos-free" means we are actually at risk of having low P levels to the unknowing. See previously mentioned annual rainfall to understand why we get so much leaching.....

i tried baking soda with a little bit of cumin and cinnamon. after 24 hours the leaves turned black. not sure about the rhizomes which is the main part of dallis grass. the st augustine seems to be ok. i'll try it out a few more times and post my results.