2lbs. per 1,000 sq. ft.

Water in thoroughly after applying, give the lawn a little extra water for the next 2-3 days, about 1-1.5 inches worth.

FYI, a good rule of thumb to figure out how much of a certain type of fertilizer to apply, simply take the figure "100", and divide this by the Nitrogen number, that will give you the number in pounds per 1000 square ft.

100/46=2.17 lbs. per 1000 sq. ft :)

I have some urea 46-0-0. I want to know how much I should dissolve in how much water. And what kind of a rate should I use on the lawn of this mixture.

Ok but you are not going to like the answer. Your question makes no sense and has no rational answer because you have not specified an area or volume.

46-0-0 is very hot, and extremely fast release nitrogen, too hot for a lot of yards unless precautions are taken to prevent it from burning the grass.

The only safe way to do this is to apply 2 pounds of dry product to 1000/ft2 to a very dry lawn with no moisture on a cool day. Then follow it up immediately with a very good soaking of water of at a rate 1-inch per 1000/ft2 to keep it from burning up the grass.

If you apply it to wet grass, on a hot day, or fail to water it in you will likely burn up the grass.

Is 46-0-0 harm a concrete driveway when used as a winter deicer. When is it best applied
Tha nk youj

"Is 46-0-0 harm a concrete driveway when used as a winter deicer. When is it best applied
Tha nk youj"

Yes, but not as much as some of the other deicers available.

It's best applied when there is ice on the driveway.

The question was put to the forum in April....so any answers in December the writer should ignore.
How and why it came to be brought back up is anyone's guess.

If the writer is still hanging around you'd be better advised to use a complete fertilizer containing the 3 main elements N. P. K, and trace elements in lieu of the straight nitrogen type.
All that will do is encourage your grass to grow and green up...it doesn't do anything for the health of the soil and if any flowering plants get in the way of it, they will surely pay the piper.

i put down some 46-0-0 around thanksgiving. The grass now is very green and looks good except for two spots that are brown (burned). I guess it I missed watering those areas. The funny thing is it rained for 2-3 days in a row so I just watered in after application.

Do I need to reseed these spots in fall. I have mostly tttf and i know it will not fill in too well.

How big are the bare spots? Small spots will fill in even with TTTF, but since TTTF spreads only via tillering (although some new versions do have some rhizomes) only small spots will fill in.

Its about 12"x12" and I do have the tttf (new) that has rhizomes but is it just an advertising gimic or does it really spread?

"is it just an advertising gimic or does it really spread?"

Yes. By that I mean that it is an advertising gimmick, but it does really spread. It doesn't spread lioke KBG, but it spreads better than other types of TTTF. For a 12"x12" spot, I think I'd leave it and see whether it fills in.

A well defined, fertilizing ritual, will fill in most bare spots given the turf is healthy. Where such turf is compacted, dry, and does not invite moisture to hang around, then, yes, you will have difficulty getting grass....any grass....to fill in.

Straight nitrogen -- if you understand what nitrogen does for plantlife, can indeed green up a lawn quicker than ...
but plants live on other than what encourages it's color.
Avoiding giving your lawn what the soil needs can only lead to you having problems every year....after year.

Why anyone would buy and apply straight nitrogen for a lawn is bufuddling. Lawns do not live on bread alone.

Goren--Fertilizing TTTF will not suddenly change it from a bunch grass to a spreading grass. Bunch grasses will not spread to fill in bare spots. It's not a matter of fertility, it's a matter of genetics.

As far as why anybody would apply straight nitrogen to a lawn, a better question would be why anybody would apply P and K to their lawns without doing a soil test first. Where I live, the soil already has more than enough P and K naturally due to the composition of the soil. Adding P and K every time I fertilize could end up elevating the levels of P and K to the point where no grass would grow at all.

There are other valid reasons for applying a fertilizer containing only N as well. For example, although "winterizer" fertilizers are high in P, recent research has shown that for cool season grasses a high nitrogen application is much better for the lawn than the traditional "winterizer" approach. In some areas, laws have been passed banning the use of fertilizers with P except when reseeding or when soil tests prove the soil is deficient in P. In areas with warm season grass, Bermuda grass is a heavy nitrogen user and balanced fertilizers are typically used only once a year, and urea is spread monthly in order to supply the needed N.

BPGreen:
research has shown that for cool season grasses a high nitrogen application is much better for the lawn than the traditional "winterizer" approach.

Exactly. As a last of the season fertilizer on cool season grass, urea is an excellent choice. You try to put it down after the first hard freeze when the topgrowth has stopped. A quick release nitrogen, like urea, is used so it can be taken up by the plant and stored in the root and crown for later use. I've used it for years for that purpose to very good results. It is the only application where I don't use organic fertilizers myself.

And, for that use, the recommended rate is 1 and quarter pounds nitrogen per thousand square feet.

>"Goren--Fertilizing TTTF will not suddenly change it from a bunch grass to a spreading grass. Bunch grasses will not spread to fill in bare spots. It's not a matter of fertility, it's a matter of genetics."

Goren, where is your rebuttal?!?!??!?!?!?! ,,,, (muhahahahhahhahaha)

Health of soil does not land at the feet of elements that are part of the soil structure. So we have nitrogen in the air we breathe, that doesn't preclude that we can use it for our soil (except in particular instances where the plant can 'fix' nitrogen right out of the air...such as clover), it has to be gotten to plants by manufacturing methods.
While the potassium and phosphurus levels too are also part of the nature of soils, that does not suggest therefore such element is widespread and plants can readily use it....they cant.
To deprive soils of these elements is preventing their ability to take up food through their roots what makes them strong and healthy.
Its not enough to give a turf something that makes them grow, they need what makes them able to continue to grow and be the best we want them to be. Grass is no different than other plants.

To say that a particlar element (phosphurus) is so widespread that we no longer have to give our soils more of it, is avoiding the issue. The soil cannot deliver to plants what phosphurus it has because the form its in is unable to be taken in by plants.
Since phosphurus is known to be so widespread in our soils, there would then be no need for its inclusion in any manufactured form of it. That's not the case....and laws that prohibit fertilizers with phosphurus is aimed at particular regions and particular reasons. Usually it is due to high runoff of soils into streams causing major problems of growth of water plants depriving the water of oxygen.

To give to soils just nitrogen is like giving a child just milk and expecting it to deliver all what is necessary for ongoing health issues.

Well, Goren, I'm a proponnent of feeding the soil, not just the plant, which seems to be what you are suggesting as the best path.

However, when you suggest feeding "just nitrogen" is somehow not appropriate or best at times, I think you put form over substance. Several very reputable studies suggest a last application of quick release nitrogen applications (organice or chemical) does in fact help the thing most lawn owners are trying primarily to foster to best result - turf grass.

Arguing just applying nitrogen, to something that depends primarily on nitrogen, (cool season turf grass) is like saying giving "just water" is somehow bad for people. Or like saying mother's breast milk isn't the best food for a newborn. Sometimes one food is best.

Cool season grasses need a certain amount of nitrogen, and a last fall feeding with 1 and quarter pounds of quick release nitrogen per thousand seems to help cool season grasses make it through the winter better and does it, as far as I can tell, without hurting the overall health of the microbes and soil. Your advise that adding a balanced fertilizer when the grass has already gone dormant is not supported by any study I've seen. Once you get to the late season fertilizer application, there is no reason to believe the other elements are beneficial to either the plant in winter or the soil next spring in the usual setting.

Usually adding a balanced fertilizer is a fairly basic approach and good advice. However, in the limited instance discussed on this thread, adding elements beside nitrogen are likely nothing but wasteful and maybe even adding to the pollution problem from runoff chemicals.

There is a time for one well timed, proper rate of quick release nitrogen, and for cool season grasses in cold areas of the country, right after the first hard freeze causes the grass topgrowth to stop is the proper time and "food".

There's so much wrong with what goren posted that I have hesitated to respond.

The syntax and sentence structure is so convoluted that it's difficult to tell exactly what he's saying, but I think he's suggesting that even if a soil already has too much P and K (as mine does) I should still apply a "balanced" fertilizer so I can be sure the soil has the P and K it needs.

RCnaylor addressed the need for a targeted high N application. But I'm trying to address a larger issue of applying unneeded P and K (especially P) that will do nothing to help the soil, may harm the soil and will often harm the waterways.

Goren claims that I am avoiding the issue when I say that there is already too much P in my soil. I say he is avoiding the issue when he says that it should be added without regard to what a soil test says.

If you add P and K without a soil test, you're being irresponsible.

I also say that Goran is still avoiding the question of his claims that fertilizers can magically transform bunch grasses into spreading grasses when science and common sense say that he is incorrect.

Ok, garyinchicago, are you keeping score? You are the referee, aren't you? I'm the inquiring-minded spectator who is still waiting for someone to get the correct answer; they're getting close, but not quite there yet. It's all about the DETAILS!!!! Lol.

I sent off to have my soil tested for next years vegetable garden, and the recommendation I received was to apply urea 46-0-0 every other month during growing season. I thought this stuff was just for lawns. So I use this in my garden too, and when should I make the first application?

It's for gardens, too! Just like I toss around Milorganite on both lawn and garden!

However, what kind of garden? Flower gardens have very different specifications than lawns, so the recommendations that came back probably weren't correct.

Vegetable gardens are reasonably close to lawns (but not exactly the same). In this case, start when you plant, but use it gently when plants are young. If things show any tendency to overgrow or get leggy, cut way back on usage.