Angry at Milorganite!!
turf_junkie
16 years ago
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marek88
16 years agookcdan
16 years agoRelated Discussions
Young Lawn: Should we be mowing now? and Treatments..
Comments (40)Sorry I lost track of this discussion. My preference for fertilizer is plain alfalfa pellets (rabbit chow). No mixing, no fuss. Apply at 20 pounds per 1,000 square feet. MorpheusPA likes Milorganite and soybean meal. Those are very good, too. I like alfalfa because I can find it locally and it is less expensive in South Texas. You can mix them or not. The application rate for any mixed grains is still 20 pounds per 1,000. This watering schedule you're on is only for this year and only because you seeded in the spring. This is an attempt to nurse your new seeded grass through the heat of summer. Eventually, deep and infrequent watering will mean that you water a full inch of water, once every week or two depending on heat. Next summer if it gets into the 90s then you should water once a week. Otherwise every other week should be fine. Nutgrass hates this watering schedule, so it must be good. The way you measure one inch of water is to set out some cat food or tuna cans. Turn on the sprinkler and time how long it takes to fill the cans. That will be your target time for watering once the summer heat breaks (next month). When the heat breaks and you know your watering time, water for that time and set your calendar. Watch the grass to tell you when to water next. As soon as you see any part of it drying out (the grass, not the soil surface), water again immediately. Remember the days and reset your calendar. Eventually watering like this will stretch out the calendar and you'll be watering every other week or less. If you do this, you should not need to worry about weeds. Weed seed needs much more water than this to germinate. If you are not germinating weed seeds, then you won't get new weeds. As for current weeds, the broad leaf weeds can be killed with something like Weed-b-gone spray. Spot spray individual weeds if you only have a few. For weeds over a broad area I would still use weed b gone spray. For grassy weeds you'll have to use something else. Someone else can help you with the various chemicals for grasses. After you get rid of current weeds, then you're relying on grass density and infrequent watering to keep the weeds out. With Kentucky bluegrass in full sun, grass density will not be a problem. With anything else in the shade, you will have to overseed in the fall to keep it dense. Good news is most weeds like full sun, too, so the shade helps. Watch the sloped area carefully for runoff. An inch of water can take hours and hours to apply with an oscillator sprinkler. That is actually a good thing because it allows the water to seep in slowly....See Morefall re-seeding plan
Comments (7)Let me pipe in and be wrong again. But give it some thought, as even a stopped clock is right, twice a day. You very likely have fertilizer starvation. That's because you don't have a lawn. You have sod that was delivered, what, a year ago? Two years ago? It does not yet have the properties of a 'mature' or 'established' lawn, it still has the properties of sod. Sod that has been neglected, mistreated, and even walked on, for crying out loud. The sod, at the sod farm, was coddled. It got regular (every two weeks) half-doses of a mild, organic fertilizer like Milorganite, and watered regularly. That sod couldn't help itself, but to grow strong, dark green (there's iron in that Milorganite) and spread out, filling in all the gaps that might be there. And then, here comes another shot, another half-dose of Milorganite. That sod grew literally from seed, through May, April and June, and was harvested, rolled, mistreated onto trucks, and battered back into a flat lot in a subdivision, over subdivision 'soil'. Sheesh. Ya can't help but feel sorry for it, can you? But the Duke? How does he treat these almost-orphaned, forgotten slices of sod? The Duke is a tough man: he feeds them about a third of what they've been used to. They don't do as well, do they? As that peat that they are rooted in fades away, rots, (I'm sorry, I meant to say "naturally decomposes") those roots drift downward toward the "soil" that the subdivision builder left for the homeowner. That soil isn't so cool, but that's ok, because the builder was going to cover it up anyway, with the sod we've been talking about. It's not OK, if you're the sod. Think about it. What I'd recommend is that you go get some Milorganite, and spread it around, do your best, with a hand-held whirley spreader. You don't have to be perfect, but do a 'good' job. Here's the clue: two weeks later, I want you to do it again, in the other direction (if you were walking North-South, you'll go East-West). Do that three times. Really. Then comes September, and if you see no improvement, go ahead and tear it out. But my money says you'll see terriffic improvement. My money says you'll see enough improvement that you can move to step two: put down a heavy application in the fall of nitrogen. Maybe twice: one in mid september, one on October 30th. Next year, that sod will kick butt. And will be one year closer to being a 'lawn'....See MoreNeed help with Bermuda lawn
Comments (13)No, you won't need to reapply preM, your handheld rake won't break the "shield". Raking might damage a few spots as you pull up thatch, but they will come back. Try not to pull up roots or healthy green blades, but uts no big deal if you do on accident. Bermuda is extremely resilient & actually thrives on mechanical disruption like slicing, coring, thatching & fraising. When was the lawn installed? If this is 2 or 3 year old Bermuda on a sandy soil base, it may just need another year to really start spreading. If it's old mature Bermuda, I might recommend some sod plugs to fill the bad spots, but it will spread, just be patient & wait for the heat....See MoreMixing starter fertilizer with Princess 77 seeds
Comments (64)hey guys I need your help ! so I bought an old McLane 10 blade 5.5 FT Briggs and Stratton. It cut nicely until I got to this muddy area. I tried to level it downward so water will follow out on the street when it rain and I think it kindda work. But due to thick later of top soil in this area, the sprinkler head is buried and the head cannot get above the grass so whenever it runs, water accumulate so much that it become this muddy. This might take two weeks to dry up or more. I have a few questions. 1. I have a Hunter rotating head. How can I raise the head up so it spray above the grass? Is there a raiser I can add to raise it up? 2. what can I do to existing area to hardening it up? 3. What is the typical maintenance for the Mclane mower? when and how often to check the air filer, change the oil, or whatever I need to look out for?...See Moreturf_junkie
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4 years ago
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