JPEG is great, thanks! Since I just snap open the image on a new tab and work with it there, it's no big deal how you do it! I see why they recommended some of what they did, and I actually agree with them. Mostly. Except they missed a few things, and I'd rather be more gentle than they are. It takes longer, but doesn't challenge the soil biology quite so much. Let's go step by step. EC 7.0: Silty sand. We have to adjust slowly or run the risk of losing resources into the water table--which is both polluting and a waste of money. pH 7.1: High, but not unreasonably so. However, we don't want to make it worse, so we counterbalance everything we're doing with plenty of sulfur. This is good because... Sulfur 6: Quite low, but not a problem. This gives a vast amount of margin in how much I can add. OM 4%: Right on the border between Fair and Good. With a low EC soil, I'd rather see Excellent to Extraordinary. So I'd feed organically as much as possible, mow in all fall leaves, steal other people's leaves, that sort of thing. Phosphorus 34: Very low, and with a higher pH, probably deficient. You'll want to purchase the cheapest starter fertilizer (high second number like 18-24-6 or 20-27-5) you can find. Brand does not matter. Instructions below. Starter will also help pull down your pH a hair as it contains (acidic-processing) nitrogen and phosphoric acid. It's not extreme, but I'll take it. Calcium 62.5%: You aren't that short, and your sodium levels aren't that high. I'm not going to recommend a vast amount of gypsum this year, I'd actually like to see what the starter does. However, I don't want to dispel too much Ca so I would like you to add some. Magnesium 30.7%: Extremely high. Avoid any and all sources of magnesium, including Epsom salt and dolomitic limestone. Let's hope the starter abolishes some of this. Potassium 1.9%: Barely tolerable, and I'd like to increase this. A lot. Potassium sulfate can be ordered from many garden shops and landscape places. You can get it online, but shipping can be a killer. Sodium 0.5%: Quite normal. No adjustments required or desired. Most Minor Elements: Except for copper and boron, they're fine. I did mention iron below as well. Copper 0.84: A little low, but with everything else going this year, I'm disinclined to try to adjust this yet. We're going to ride it a year and then work with it. Iron 149: Fine, but at your pH it's heavily bound. Whenever you like, apply Milorganite at bag rate to slowly raise this. I'm not inclined to recommend ferrous sulfate here as your pH isn't that far out of line. Boron 0.39: This is a little too low to ignore. We use Milorganite as a carrier. In a wheelbarrow or the like, dump the Milo. Spraying very, very lightly with water (I use a spray bottle like the kind people use to damp their clothes when they iron) will help the boron stick. Add the recommended amount of boron and stir, spraying occasionally to get the stuff to stick to the Milo. Then apply over the recommended area. So if going for bag rate Milorganite (1 bag per 2,500 square feet), you'd add 10 tablespoons of 20 Mule Team Borax. Recommendations: Because of your climate, I'm sneaking in some extra stuff. I wouldn't be able to do this in more arid or hotter regions. May 1: Apply starter fertilizer at the bag rate. May 15: Apply 2 pounds of potassium sulfate per thousand square feet. Apply 4 tablespoons of 20 Mule Team Borax per thousand square feet. June 1: Apply starter fertilizer at the bag rate. June 15: Apply gypsum at 5 pounds per thousand square feet. July 1: Apply 2 pounds of potassium sulfate per thousand square feet. September 1: Apply starter fertilizer at the bag rate. September 15: Apply gypsum at 5 pounds per thousand square feet. Apply 1 pound of potassium sulfate per thousand square feet. October 1: Apply starter fertilizer at the bag rate. October 15: Apply gypsum at 5 pounds per thousand square feet. November 1: Apply starter fertilizer at the bag rate.

Here's your motivation:These are all KBG lawns. The picture was taken by morpheuspa several Julys ago. The tan colored lawns water daily. Morph deep waters his green lawn weekly and does all the stuff we talk about here. You're going cold turkey on the watering. Watch it very carefully. 50 minutes might not be enough to get a full inch. Here's more on watering. You need to test your sprinklers with cans to get the timing right. Watering: Deep and infrequent is the mantra for watering. This is for all turf grass all over the place. Deep means 1 inch all at one time. Put some cat food or tuna cans around the yard, and time how long it takes your sprinkler(s) to fill all the cans. Memorize that time. That will be the time you water from now on. My hose, sprinkler and water pressure takes 8 full hours to fill the cans. Your time will likely be less. I like gentle watering. As for watering frequency, that depends on the daytime air temperature. With temps in the 90s, deep water once per week. With temps in the 80s, deep water once every 2 weeks. With temps in the 70s, deep water once every 3 weeks. With temps below 70, deep water once a month. Note that you have to keep up with quickly changing temps in the spring and fall. This deep and infrequent schedule works in Phoenix and in Vermont, so it should work for you. The reason for deep and infrequent is to grow deeper, more drought resistant roots and to allow the soil to dry completely at the surface for several days before watering again. If it rains, reset your calendar to account for the rainfall.

Semi-off topic, the tips of your grass blades indicate your mower blades need sharpening. On topic , the brown patch looks like cut grass clippings that dried up. When you swat them around with your boot/hand, do they move away showing green grass underneath ?

FST is a bag of micronutrients. I would not apply anything like that without doing your own soil test to show which micros you need and how much. If 6 lawns in the neighborhood have the same problem, then there's a problem. Are there lawns which do not have the problem? A really good soil test for micros comes from Logan Labs in Ohio. Cost is $25. If you get that, when they email you the results, post it here for review. My fear for your area is excessive boron. Boron is an essential micronutrient up to a certain point. Beyond that point it becomes a potent poison. That's why boric acid works so well to kill insects. But it could be another issue like a salt imbalance. Do you know what the area was used for before it was a neighborhood? Another concern would be water drainage from the oil and gas industry. The Logan Labs test will give all the info you need. Something you cannot miss with is organic fertilizer. Most of us in the forums use grains from the local feed store to save money on organics. If you look at the ingredients on a commercially bagged organic fertilizer you'll see it is full of grains like soybean, alfalfa, cottonseed, corn, and wheat. You can buy at least some of those at your local feed store. I like alfalfa pellets because they are readily available and inexpensive ($15 for 50 pounds). In other parts of the country soybean meal is less expensive. Visit them and see what's available. It has to be ground, though. Otherwise you will have a field of corn or whatever you get. Apply at 15-20 pounds per 1,000 square feet. You don't have to water it in like you do with chemical fertilizers, but they do need to get moist sometime to help get them started. Just waiting for the morning dew is usually fine for organics. You cannot overdo organics, so just do it. If you spill it on the grass, just wash it in so it doesn't smother the grass.