Thank you Fruitnut, I think I have gained some clarity based on your response and on a couple of sites I found after my post. As a newbie to grapes I had no idea what buying a "3 yr old" grapevine actually meant. I was surprised that one site was selling vines in bunches of around 25 with the best prices if ordering a quantity of 50 or more. I was thinking I don't want to start a vineyard; I just want to grow grapes in my garden probably no more than my family actually consumes. The website also had a picture of the grapevines they sell with this excerpt: Grading Standards At our Vineyards 1 yr Extra - These are one year old vines that have made excellent growth the first year. Top growth is 12-18", and they have a heavy root system. 1 yr #1 - These vines are slightly smaller than 1-Extra vines, having 6-12" of top growth with a good root system to support the vine at planting. They represent the majority of the vines available. If I had received these vines in the mail I would have been like what the heck?!#@ and would certainly had been disappointed at the waste of 15.95 per vine. (not that this website asks that much for theirs but that is what I was looking at paying for a 3 yr old vine). I had to take my understanding of buying fruit trees back to the drawing board as a vine is definitely not a tree and though these plants are minuscule they are at least still a plant with roots; a lot of vendors are just selling cuttings I would then need to root myself. I then found a website that pictured more of what I wanted to know with this excerpt: Here is an illustration of two own root, (i.e. ungrafted) vines pruned ready for shipment. On the left is a one-year old and on the right a mature vine. Both types should be allowed a year to re-establish the root system which is pruned for shipment. Note that mature vines loose most of their feeding roots during lifting so they are best planted in November with mycorrhizal fungi applied to the roots to stimulate feeding root regrowth. In the spring, new growth should appear at several points on the head of the plant. Only those shoots required for the framework should be allowed to develop. The image on the left looks like a grape I purchased growing in a 1 gallon container last year from Lowes. The image on the right shows the benefit of getting a mature vine and based on their text I now understand why it will still require a year to bear fruit because most of the feeding roots are lost. I also understand (now) that a 3 yr old vine is only truly a 3 yr old vine if it is in its permanent location with root system intact. I now have a million more questions and questions for the vendor I decide to purchase from. Does the image on the right look better because, as the website says, It is a 3 yr old grape on its own root stock/ungrafted and does that mean I need to make sure the 3yr old grape I purchase is ungrafted if I want it to resemble the picture? This website suggested that it is best to plant a mature vine in November; am I too late to plant in January here in the southwest where it is kind of warm? Is there something I can do to speed the recovery of the feeding root regrowth so that there is the possibility of a small crop this year? The picture on the right is a cane with 2 shoots cut back to 2-3 buds per shoot if I have the terminology right. If I receive a plant like the pictured image, will I get vines on my 2 shoots this year and does that mean I will get 2 vines or closer to 6(a vine developing from each of the buds)???? Don't laugh, each one of you were a newbie at one point too :). My question for you experienced grape growers is what pruning method produces the most grapes? I at first only wanted 2 3 yr old grape vines to grow supported by a small trellis fence in my backyard as I don't have much space. Those two I would cane prune. After finding out that a will get very little fruit, if any, this year I am considering growing more vines and more varieties but I have very little space. If I add more vines to my order it will be 1 yr old vines that I would grow in a raised square foot garden bed with a trellis or as a container garden with a trellis. I understand that limiting the root depth will limit my fruit production. It looks to me like spur pruning produces more fruit than cane pruning so I was thinking that my extra vines that aren't directly ground planted could be spur pruned to offset a bit of the fruit loss from shallow roots. Do you think for those extra vines my pruning method will make a difference?

Thank you all for your input! Hubby and I are leaning towards the parthenocissus for the majority of the wall planted somewhere near the right (front) end. But I'm not sure which species would do well in my climate zone and in these conditions where the sun would be on that section for the entire day. Mine is fine with sun hitting it the entire day. If the leaves look scorched, water a bit more. Avoid P. quinquefolia (Viginia creeper) because it is too rampant. Named varieties of other species will be more tame. Expect a year or two to establish a good root system before the plant really takes off, but you should get some coverage the first year. Also, if those sticky suckers flake off, will the plant be at risk of falling off the wall? No. If some bit of the plant accidentally gets pulled off the wall, just cut that part off because it won't re-attach. A new bit will grow and stick on its own. Also, I'd still like to do one bougainvillea on the opposite corner. Anyone have tips for pruning to keep it the shape I want? Use a hedge trimmer and just shear it close to the wall. Bougies bloom on new growth, so new growth = flowers, so cutting back = more flowers, not less (within reason). Do not trim a baby plant too much. Let it establish. I'd like to have it climb up the wall at the corner and then most trail across the top section of the wall. In this situation where it will be attaching itself to the wall, how can I help direct its growth since there's nothing to tie pieces to as one would if growing on a trellis. Bougies won't attach themselves. You will have to install some strong wires or a trellis and use them to attach. Would also appreciate help on choosing a bougainvillea veiety suitable to this location/climate. I'm hoping "Orange Ice" will work because I really love the colors. A non-red color will be much less rampant and would be a good choice. Check on performance for that particular variety in your area--have you seen one growing in your neighborhood that looks good? Plant bougies in June or July when the soil is warm and do not disturb the rootball. Baby bougies are easily killed because the roots are so frail and brittle and need warmth. Established bougies are nearly impossible to kill. For planting slit the planting pot up, place the pot in the planting hole and gently pull out the pieces of the pot, leaving the roots as undisturbed as you can. Should I purchase online or would local nursery be better to ensure getting plants that are best for my area? If you have a good quality garden center nearby, that should be fine. Neither genus is particularly rare or hard to find.

Melissa, I recommend Akebia, having a number of different varieties available. Their 5 leaflet leaves are semi-evergreen. It blooms in the spring. No tendrils or hold fast suckers, or clinging roots. It just twines about its support. Sweet Autumn Clematis has wrapping leaves, no clinging roots or sucked pad protrusions. Their twining leaf stalks wrap around their support. These two vines will not damage or discolor brick or grab mortar. They need a support along the brick wall on which to grow. It need not be fancy, but sturdy and long lasting. Dutchman's Pipe, Aristolochia is another nice twining vine, well behaved, and the host plant of the black swallowtail butterfly. It's flowers are fascinating. It too, is brick and mortar safe. Sweet Autumn Clematis, a beautifulf, profusely blooming sight in late summer/early fall, has fluffy dried seed heads in winter. They will produce abundant seeds that get blown around during winter. Seedlings take root everywhere, which if left unweeded can become a nuisance, particularly since even at a young age they root strongly. When a seedling comes up in the middle of a bush or hedge and is not detected until it grows up through the bush, getting it out is not easy, very possible yes, but not easy. The root stock of even a young SAC vine is not easily destroyed. Sweet Autumn Clematis is exceptionally nice, but it's self sowing potential needs to be considered. Akebia does send runners out from it, but these are not a problem if removed as found, nothing like Wisteria! Seeds from Akebia fruit are not an issue regarding self sowing everywhere. I believe an Akebia vine is not self fertile, and needs different Akebia vines nearby to produce viable seeds in their fruit pods. Then there are lacy and variegated leaved cultivars of the Porcelain Vine (Ampelopsis b.), which looks like an ornamental grape vine. It holds by tendrils like grape vines and is safe for brick and mortar. It's support needs to be strong. It's porcelain berries are lovely, going through color changes as they mature from: grass green, to purple, then delft blue, and finally, the palest creamy chartreuse. It is a rampant self sower, though. Seedlings must be weeded regularly. Another harmless to brick and mortar vine is Fleece Vine (Silve Lace Vine), Polygonum auberti. It twines as it grows. In the summer it produces by clusters of baby's breath like blooms that smell like sour lemon! Nice, to my nose. Easy to grow, not a root runner or a rampant self sower to me. Finally there are the honeysuckle, all of which twine. They can be aggressive/invasive, but some are not, especially those named varieties bred from Lonicera periclymenum (European Honeysuckle). Lonicera sempervirens, Scarlet Honeysuckle is a nice tame vine. It is not fragrant but attracts hummers and butterflies. Moses

Carol those would be perfect, it does not have to be "single" I am just so use to seeing soooooo many always together (grew up on treasure coast) that they are jungle like and I was wondering if I was crazy thinking that they could look more tree like if someone tried. The ones I have out front are mostly in shade, they grow quick, but I know if they were given more sun they would grow even quicker! I am good with their growth, they stay stick like and I trim them several times a year. Dirty, I wont be giving up on the saplings! Hubby and me walked around the back yard and he wants to plunk one down straight up in the middle.. that is a no go for me, I like having open grass space. we need to find a good perimeter spot. I wonder how many years it would take for them to hit the power lines above? damn those power lines, I did not think they would bother me when we bought the house, but now. Of course I see power lines all up in people's trees around the hood, so I don't know why I even care. City only cuts the trees to the main lines on a regular basis, ones running through the back yards only when the line needs some sort of work.