We both know your first post was not an attempt at humor. Yes it was, you cannot read my mind. My first comment was directed at the members of the forum to quit sugar coating the facts. They know me and my since-of-humor where as you are new here and do not.. Your first paragraph has very little merit if you had read my entire initial post. Nothing had been overlooked, I stated I wasn't planting fescue this year, so there was no boat to miss. Incorrect IMO. Look at the title of your post and your comment in the initial post: That is, until somebody told me I could build a nice fescue lawn since I have a sprinkler system. They seem to think I can keep it green all summer long and still enjoy the benefits of a fescue lawn (green lawn well past the Bermuda dormancy). My lawn is already starting the transition into dormancy, so I was wondering what you people thought of my query. That leads me to believe and many others I assume from their responses that you were considering a to replace the Bermuda with Fescue. You may think I like to belittle people before offering advice but that is just your opinion not based on historical facts of my performance over the last two years. I offer no apologies, you are free to take or reject my advice, doesnt make me one bit of difference one way or the other I still don't understand why it makes no sense to kill off what I have now and seed with Yukon. Because it is a waist of time, money, and effort to do so on a project this large. What ever you have will come back unless you use soil sterilizers and remove all the sod plus a few inches of top-soil then replace it. I suspect since you said you plugged the existing Bermuda 27-years ago it was U3. It has pretty good cold tolerance; it just needs more water and fertilizer than Yukon to look nice. If maintained U3 will look better than Yukon with equal cold tolerance. You are on the right track looking at Yukon as it has pretty good cold tolerance among the common varieties. I still recommend a blend of at least two or three of the top varieties, because one will dominate and take over. It is like playing 3 numbers on a Craps Table, your chances are 300% better of winning. The top seeded varieties for cold tolerance are ranked in order for your area: Riviera SWI 1014 and 1046 Yukon Contessa Veracruz Now dont come away thinking common or seeded Bermuda varieties are the best cold tolerant of the Bermuda grasses because they are not. They are just the most inexpensive and easiest to obtain. The champs are hybrids like Ashmore, OKC 70-18, Patriot, and Aussie Green, Midlawn, and Premiere. However finding one of these is not likely in your area, you can find Patriot and OKC 70-18 south of you in Oklahoma City area sod farms and the cost are about $1.50/ft2 if you pick it up. Up to double that if delivered.

Won't hurt a thing to not fertilize. In fact i rarely fertilize the first time. I make my 1st application after i mow for the second time. Why wait so long for the second? If it looks like i need more seed i will do so 7 days after the initial application. Soon it will be to cold for most fertilizes to do any good unless you use potassium or calcium nitrate. These can be hard to find.

I saw the garden man on "Ask This Old House" talk about winterizing lawns and overall lawn health for people facing snowy winters. He indicated (and I guess this makes sense, but I'm the farthest thing from an expert) that one should not only rake the leaves as much as possible to avoid the dead mush that would await you in spring otherwise, but also (before the first serious frost ) one should optimally do a really rough, rough rake through to actually pull up dead grass. This aeration, he said, is really good for the spring growth. I would assume, since aeration is necessary for growing anything, this is also true of lawn seed - raking not only the leaves, but if possible a really rough rake through to pull up dead stuff and aerate.

The concept of frost seeding is to get the seed down so early that if/when you get a few warm days with moisture, the grass seed will sprout before most of the summer annual weeds. It's too late for that. That's why January. Some of the summer annual plants germinate in August and lie nearly dormant until the longer days of spring bring them out of dormancy. Many wildflowers fit in that category. If you don't like them, then they are called weeds. Thistle is another.