The first spot wouldn't really be ideal for anything, which I assume you already know. So let's not rule out a nice dried-flower arrangement or something. But, there are still some possibilities:

Aspidistra elatior or A. lurida (cast-iron plant) isn't likely to grow a lot under these conditions, but it should be able to survive as long as temperatures stay above 50F.

Araucaria heterophylla (Norfolk Island pine), according to my reference book, are okay with temperatures down to about 40F, and will adapt to low light, though over time growth may get stretched and leggy; a strategy that should work very well would be to get two and have them trade places every couple weeks, where one could be in a warmer, brighter spot and the other one by the front door. Just be sure that the temperature in that spot isn't too cold, and remember that the wall itself, and the air near it, will be much colder than the rest of the hallway. One advantage of Araucaria is that they should be very easy to find right now, and could be decorated for the season.

Chlorophytum comosum (spider plant) is said to tolerate temperatures to 35F before suffering damage, though growth essentially stops below 55F. It would probably prefer better light than what you've got, though it's hard to be sure, and they're touchy about fluoride, boron, and sodium in water, so no tap water and no softened water -- you may or may not want to worry about buying distilled water just for the plant. (Haven't experienced fluoride damage myself, so you may be fine: just be aware that water quality is a big deal to these guys.)

Hedera helix (English ivy) will still grow down to about 45F, and don't suffer damage until somewhere in the 10-20F range. They're not exactly low-light plants, but moderate is okay, so it might be workable. I like Hedera canariensis (Algerian ivy) much, much better, since English ivy is just too appealing to spider mites, but I don't know whether canariensis is as cold-tolerant as helix. So call these both a maybe.

Howea fosteriana, the Kentia palm, can go to 50F or below. The down sides: mites like them too, they tend to be expensive for their size, and Howea, Chamaedorea, and Chrysalidocarpus all have a pretty similar look, and it'd be tough to be sure which one you're looking at. (Chrysalidocarpus can also handle some cold, but it needs relatively high light.)

Spathiphyllum spp. (peace lily) are able to take more cold than you'd think: cold wind will cause leaves to go black, but cold by itself isn't a huge problem. At work, we've been getting some complaints about the cold from plants near the spath table (Aglaonema mostly), but the Spathiphyllums themselves are fine.

Sansevieria trifasciata (snake plant) are able to handle temperatures to 45F or so under most circumstances. They don't handle it well if they're wet, or getting a lot of fertilizer. On the plus side, I once had one that I had to keep in a cold spot over a winter (mid-30s F) that then flowered: I don't know whether the cold caused the flowering, but at the very least the plant didn't seem to object.

Tolmiea menziesii (piggyback plant) is native to the U.S. west coast and does well with temperatures down to 40F, actually preferring cooler temperatures than most houseplants. It, like Chlorophytum, would prefer more light than what you have, but it will tolerate very little. I've had a tough time finding any for sale around here, though, so this may or may not be an option where you live.

I'd go with: the rotating Araucaria idea, Sansevieria or Tolmiea, but any of the above should be workable.

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Tall low-light plants for a normal interior:

Dracaena deremensis or D. fragrans (Janet Craig, Lemon-Lime, Limelight, Warneckii, corn plant, Rikki, Michiko, etc.) are probably just about ideal for this case. They're all very easy plants and low light's not a problem, though they'd prefer bright indirect, like most plants.

Dracaena marginata (dragon tree, marginata) is also a common choice, though I don't think it's as suitable. In my experience, they're touchier about being overwatered (specifically: they do not like it, and aren't shy about telling you so), and less willing to adapt to low light. People still manage to make it work, though, sometimes.

Some Ficus species will also adapt to low light, grudgingly, but I don't recommend it.

Rhapis excelsa (lady palm) is said to be very adaptable to low light, though they're also very slow-growing plants, and consequently expensive, so you'll have to pick one out that's the size you're looking for and then pay quite a lot for it.

Sansevieria trifasciata again: they get a bad rap sometimes because they're so common, but they can be very nice plants if you grow them right.

I'd go with: a Dracaena deremensis or fragrans. But it's not my house.

Yes, I do realize that the drafty area is far from ideal and presents a challenge. I hadn't thought of a dried flower arrangement. I will keep that in mind in case I can't find what I need. I do LOVE dried flower arrangements I just find they get so dusty and I can never figure out a way to keep them clean.

I like Cast Iron Plants but I wasn't able to locate one the last time I looked.
I do love the Norfolk Island Pine and I had not thought of having two and switching them every once in awhile. That is a good idea if I can find two reasonably priced and in the size that I will need.
I will try to see if the Hedera canariensis is available and look up what it's tolerance of cold would be.
I will also see if I can find a piggyback plant...I do like that plant and I would have an easier time finding a place for two of these than I would the Norfolk Island Pine and that way I could keep switching those two.

The Low light area...

Dracaena and Lady Palm sound like two I would enjoy. I have had Ficus in the past and find them too finicky. I will have to see if I can find a palm that I can afford in the size I need.

I wonder...would the Norfolk Pine work in this location as well?

Thanks very much...you have given me a lot of ideas to look for.

pm2

In order for the NI pine to work in rotation, it'd have to have some period of brighter light (not necessarily full sun, but it would probably not say no to filtered sun), so it'd be the same kind of thing in the corner as it would be by the door: you'd have to switch it back and forth with something that was getting good light. Or at least I would try to get it some time in a cool, moist, bright environment with good air circulation every so often: some NI pines would adapt and stay alive without, but the more closely you can duplicate the natural environment, the better they'll look, and the healthier they'll be.

"(Haven't experienced fluoride damage myself, so you may be fine: just be aware that water quality is a big deal to these guys.)"

Mine died back a lot from low light though. Only on one side, really, because it's shaggy and hard to rotate, but if this is for low light areas, just want to mention that.

I'm wondering if a pineapple could work. Apparently as long as they don't get frost, they're not overly affected by the cold. They're used to higher light conditions but from what I understand, they can survive in low light -- just not put out much growth. Keep in mind that if this is a high traffic area, they can be amazingly sharp.

Anyway, would some sort of fern be possible?

I hate to be negative but those spots are not suitable for live plants, especially year round. You would do much better with those artificial plants that look so real these days. Some can be hosed off like a real plant and others cleaned with compressed air as one cleans a computer case. A feather duster sprayed with End-Dust also works well.

What I would do for the front door area, since it will be up on a table top (right?) is get a really nice cachepot or decorative container that matches your other decor and then just rotate out different blooming plants every few months. You could do a bromeliad, a kalanchoe, maybe some ivy temporarily, mums, just whatever seasonal blooming plant you find at your local grocery store or home depot.