You can do that with apples alone from July through November. Maybe zone 7 can produce an apple in June.

The way they set up the new Stark catalog has an apple through the months set up section.

Throw in a pie cherry (if there are any that bear reliably in zone 7) and you would have a tree bearing in all those months. (They say Northstar is zone 4-8 but I heard someone from VA saying hers isn't reliable at bearing every year, and it was full grown, my bears heavily and is very small.)

You might need to be more refined on the fruits you desire or you may only get replies like mine, which is my set up (or will be after this fall).

Northstar and Montmorency pie cherries, strawberries - June
Lodi apple - July
Earliblaze apple, grapes, butternut -August
McIntosh, Cortland apples, butternut -September
Red Rome, Arkansas Black apples - October

If I think I have room to waste after the new ones of these get grown I may try a Granny Smith apple but I've heard from an orchard to the south of me that it's hit and miss trying to get a November apple here. You shouldn't have a problem.

alpharetta,

i'm working on that same issue. i've decided to actually do that on each class and variety of fruits extending to nuts.

this winter i plan on making charts for ripening dates as well as pollination in regards to my own trees. this will make it easier to see where any gaps exist and make selections to fill them in.

as for your selections you might utilize ripening charts provided by nurseries such as van wells, raintree,adams county nursery and such. they usually have ripening and pollination charts on either their websites or print catalog.

i'm determined to add a mulberry next spring to add on the month of june and extending my fresh harvest from june thru november.

Oh, heavens, in Georgia, don't forget about peaches, which would ripen probably in July for you. What about apricots, can those do well in your climate? They ripen here in mid-July, so I'm sure they'd probably be at least a month earlier in GA. And, at the other end of the spectrum, Asian Persimmons would ripen for you in Oct-Nov timeframe, depening upon variety. I would LOVE to be able to grow them here, but they are NOT hardy in Michigan. I grow the American persimmons, which ripen here in November and hang on the tree, as frozen persimmon-sicles, which are VERY tasty, until usually Feb., unless critters eat them sooner.

Dennis
SE Michigan

Yes, that is correct. For this type of problem, which is of course of interest to most backyard fruit growers, you always start with the mulberries. The juneberry is a nice berry, which matures within a week of the mulberries, at least here, and like the mulberry, needs no spray. I prefer mulberries because you can't beat getting a bowl of fruit from simply shaking the tree with a tarp underneath. I hear that the Collier variety is earlier than Everbearing. It is probably best to get a tree that bears heavily for a short time, in part to make sure the birds do not get them all.

By the end of the mulberry season, all sorts of things are coming online, including raspberry and cherry (and I think goumi too, I will find out soon). By the end of cherry season, there are apricots and for at least two months one could eat plums, early and late, japanese and europeans.

In fact, I think that in Georgia one could easily cover the time continuously with no-spray fruits only. Here is a possible suggestion:

- mulberry, early and late
- figs (July crop), early and late
- raspberries early and late
- high bush blueberries (or blackberries)
- figs (main crop)
- hardy kiwis
- persimmon
- kiwis

Of course, kiwis, properly stored, will last well into May, effectively making the backyard an 11-month fruit factory.
There are other fruits, including some grapes, plums and cherries, which could make it without spray. These are also, in general, plants that can be harvested efficiently, except for the brambles.