Opps, did not take any pics before I amputated the limb, and the limb is now burn in my wood stove (seemed like a good way to dispose of it). However the description and visuals matched exactly the pics I had seen online, when I looked it up. (And even if it wasn't fireblight, it was some infection which was producing spores, so it needed to be removed) Fire blight is not a big deal usually up in my location (8200'), due to colder temps and dry weather. However it can occur. One of the problems I have is this orchard was damaged 1.5 years ago during a wild fire. Lost quite a few trees, and many of the surviving trees had parts of them burned (usually the one side which faced the flames). There is bark damage on some of the surviving trees from the nearby heat of the fire. Those heat damaged areas look a bit like sun scald damage. And it occurs to me now that they may be masking fire blight (which may have entered the burned areas). Which raises a good question, how can I tell whether these "burns" (or other scars/damage) are just normal injuries or are harboring fire blight? Waiting until the ooze starts is not the best idea, and several of the trees would not survive pruning out all the visible damage (if I were to err on the safe side). Are there any easy tests, or definitive way to spot a fire blight injury vs a normal and healing injury?

2 things here: First not what you asked: You need to prune the main trees. Rule of thumb is that on each branch cut off 1/3 of each years new growth. You do this before the next years buds open. (find out when is best in your areas I'm in Iowa) you can see where each year starts by what looks likes a junction, or some might compare it to how the skin looks on your knuckles. I won't go into the the why's and ect of pruning in this thread. You have some time to read up on that. But read here not the web in general. Here is what you 'can' do on the suckers. Wait until pruning time, then take your time in getting those removed, dig around them with your fingers and see how much root you can get with it without scratching the main trunk or a large root . cut those off 4" above the ground line and replant them in a pot or in the ground. It will need very damp soil to start, but don't let it be waterlogged, that will drown it. So if you get one or more to retake you can bud graft in the fall from your trees or other apple tree in your area. None of this is complicated and you have time to get your mind around it.

I'm not an expert, so you will have to google it unless someone else chimes in. But those are aerial burr knots which m111 are prone to grow. My trees are 10 years old and they have outgrown them, I.e., it has not been an issue. No pun intended. I did have to battle knot borers but the latex paint wash at the base helped. It is less of an issue now as the trunks are bigger

Shelf or bracket fungus like that growing on any sort of tree is an indication of internal or heartwood rot. IOW, the tree is dying, albeit rather slowly. It could die completely at any time or gradually over an extended period. I'd think about replacing it in the near future.