Insofar as how it would impact root health, there is no difference between plastic and high-fired clay/ceramic. If you can see no crazing (myriad small cracks reminiscent of a fish net with small holes) in the glaze, you can eliminate anything toxic making its way from the pot to the grow medium. If you haven't fertilized or used any type of tonics, insecticides, leaf shine, detergents, etc., it's a very good bet you have unwittingly over-watered due to the fact there is no way for water to evaporate or be used by the plant as the new medium is not colonized by roots and remains a hostile environment to roots due to lack of oxygen. My suggestion would be to lift the plant from the pot to see it the lower reaches of the soil column are saturated. If so, see figure D below. Remove the soil from the new pot, place an over-turned pot in the bottom of the pot so it fits snugly, and cover the drain hole of the over-turned pot with something that won't rot (it does not need to allow water to drain through the hole in the over-turned pot, but it's ok to use a screen if you wish). Mix enough of the soil that falls away from the roots or remains in the large pot with an equal measure of perlite and fill to the top of the over-turned pot, then reposition your plant on top of the pot. and back-fill with the remaining soil w/o the extra perlite. The shaded areas in the images above represents perched water. By comparing D to A, you can see the over-turned pot significantly reduces the amount of excess (perched) water your soil will b e able to hold, so air will return the the soil much faster. The operational words for the moisture level of a grow medium is damp/moist, never wet/soggy. After having put the pot to work as ballast, start checking moisture levels with a "tell" you can make from a wooden dowel rod. It is far superior to a finger or a "moisture meter". More about using a 'tell': Using a 'tell' Over-watering saps vitality and is one of the most common plant assassins, so learning to avoid it is worth the small effort. Plants make and store their own energy source – photosynthate - (sugar/glucose). Functioning roots need energy to drive their metabolic processes, and in order to get it, they use oxygen to burn (oxidize) their food. From this, we can see that terrestrial plants need plenty of air (oxygen) in the soil to drive root function. Many off-the-shelf soils hold too much water and not enough air to support the kind of root health most growers would like to see; and, a healthy root system is a prerequisite to a healthy plant. Watering in small sips leads to avoid over-watering leads to a residual build-up of dissolved solids (salts) in the soil from tapwater and fertilizer solutions, which limits a plant's ability to absorb water – so watering in sips simply moves us to the other horn of a dilemma. It creates another problem that requires resolution. Better, would be to simply adopt a soil that drains well enough to allow watering to beyond the saturation point, so we're flushing the soil of accumulating dissolved solids whenever we water; this, w/o the plant being forced to pay a tax in the form of reduced vitality, due to prolong periods of soil saturation. Sometimes, though, that's not a course we can immediately steer, which makes controlling how often we water a very important factor. In many cases, we can judge whether or not a planting needs watering by hefting the pot. This is especially true if the pot is made from light material, like plastic, but doesn't work (as) well when the pot is made from heavier material, like clay, or when the size/weight of the pot precludes grabbing it with one hand to judge its weight and gauge the need for water. Fingers stuck an inch or two into the soil work ok for shallow pots, but not for deep pots. Deep pots might have 3 or more inches of soil that feels totally dry, while the lower several inches of the soil is 100% saturated. Obviously, the lack of oxygen in the root zone situation can wreak havoc with root health and cause the loss of a very notable measure of your plant's potential. Inexpensive watering meters don't even measure moisture levels, they measure electrical conductivity. Clean the tip and insert it into a cup of distilled water and witness the fact it reads 'DRY'. One of the most reliable methods of checking a planting's need for water is using a 'tell'. You can use a bamboo skewer in a pinch, but a wooden dowel rod of about 5/16” (75-85mm) would work better. They usually come 48” (120cm) long and can usually be cut in half and serve as a pair. Sharpen all 4 ends in a pencil sharpener and slightly blunt the tip so it's about the diameter of the head on a straight pin. Push the wooden tell deep into the soil. Don't worry, it won't harm the root system. If the plant is quite root-bound, you might need to try several places until you find one where you can push it all the way to the pot's bottom. Leave it a few seconds, then withdraw it and inspect the tip for moisture. For most plantings, withhold water until the tell comes out dry or nearly so. If you see signs of wilting, adjust the interval between waterings so drought stress isn't a recurring issue. Questions? Al

What I called shells are plain tops, like tshirts but nicer??? if that makes sense. If you wear anything sleeveless you must wear a blazer or sweater. The first day went OK. Capris are OK if below the knee. Flipflops are OK on fridays and weekends. Wednesday and Thursday you can wear jeans if you pay a dollar for charity BUT you still have to be business casual. I guess your top half is business casual but your bottom is jeans. No ripped jeans ever. Shoes was not really discussed during our orientation so I have to ask about summer shoes. Like flat sandals that are not flipflops. Almost 18 DD paid me a compliment and she didn't even know it. Those shoe/boots I told you about (not sure what to call them). When I showed her, she tried them on. Said they didn't look that great on her. That's as close to a "I like what you picked out Mom" as I'm going to get, LOL.

OK, good: it sounds like my original leanings are reasonably sound, especially to want to shorten the wall section on the left that is, for all purposes of flow, unnecessary. Now we see how complicated - therefore expensive (or not) - it is to reduce that bit of clunk. The real question would be whether to infill. We should try to guess how much a change at the entry will affect light getting from the kitchen area into the dining room. In a best case scenario, the width of the entry would narrow, from 48" to ~41-43" (27 or 28" depth on both sides to cover standard counters). So that might not be too bad a change. The lighting in the kitchen should improve some by the time we're done, which might help in all scenarios. We're still looking at options, but we'll certainly be swapping out the kitchen's one (count 'em, one, and very poor) overhead light for recessed lighting, and we're nearly decided on adding a skylight as well. Rebunky: Doing the little half wall at right might be a good idea to weigh. Thanks for the example picture, and also the photoshop of my current idea. The visuals really do help. I'm likewise unsure about the "break" I currently have in the back counter. It may be that rather than tie in those back cabinets, it'd look good just drop a freestanding piece of furniture into the space. I'm also wondering about running a bit of counter between the two locations. There's a couple of ways that might happen. I'm not sure if this'll make sense without a diagram, but if we add a 15"D cabinet to that well at the final 67" of the kitchen space, as shown, and then run the counter straight backward to the main run of cabinets, as shown, the bridge space (now left open) would be 10" deep and the passthrough area adjacent to the powder room consistently 32" wide. So I'd need either adequate support for 10" x ~30" run of counter there, or to build some storage 10" deep. I found this photo of someone negotiating a narrow area of rowhouse kitchen in DC, and it came off really well:

Okay ladies, back again. I bought the blue, cold shoulder dress above shown at March 2, 2017 at 1:24PM. I have decided to wear shoes that I have, because they have a decently high heel (3 1/2") but are uber comfortable to walk, dance, etc. I also like tan as it lengthens the leg and they show it with a tan shoe. These are the shoes: I am debating now over a bag. I want something small-ish. It does not have to be matchy-matchy, but it should not clash either. What is throwing me is ... 1. Usually when I think of navy, I think navy and white, but that will clash w the shoe IMHO. So, for example, this is not a good choice: And this may also be too white for the shoes: 2. The dress is flouncy, so something very structured will look wrong IMHO, ie this is not a good choice: 3. This seems to tie the blue with the tan the best, but it feels a tad too casual... I am thinking the tassel is more flouncy in mood, or maybe go with the grey clutch and clearly be unmatched.