Okay, here's my list! As you can see it's a real mix of veggies, herbs, and annual and perennial flowers. :-) (BTW - the formatting of posts sure leaves a lot to be desired in terms of flexibility and formatting it the way you want to! Oh well, hopefully it's legible.) AMARANTH Golden Giant Greek ARTICHOKE Imperial Star Purple of Romagna BEAN, FRESH Kentucky Wonder Empress Contender Asian Winged Red-Seeded Asparagus BEAN, SOUP Hutterite October Tiger's Eye Jacob's Cattle Gasless Speckled Cranberry Cherokee Trail Good Mother Stallard BROCCOLLI Packman De Cicco BROCCOLLI RAAB, Zamboni BROOM CORN SSE mix CARROT Scarlet Nantes Chantenay Thumbelina Purple Dragon CAULIFLOWER, Early Snowball CUCUMBER Lemon Crystal Apple County Fair Hybrid Mexican Sour Gherkin Early Fortune Richmond Green Apple Poona Kheera Thai EGGPLANT Fairy Tale Hybrid Rosa Bianca Japanese White Egg Thai Long Green Thai Dark Round Green ORNAMENTAL Gourd Mix KOHLRABI, Kolibri LETTUCE Black Seeded Simpson Salad Bowl Mesclun Mix MALABAR SPINACH MELON Noir des Carmes Delice de Table Early Silver Line Charantais Ambrosia Ananas d'Amerique a Chair Verte Tigger Collective Farm Woman MUSTARD, Southern Giant ONIONS (thanks to Dawn!) PEA Sugar Snap Oregon Giant Oregon Sugar II PEPPER Blushing Beauty Garden Sunshine Golden Bell Jupiter Sweet Banana Orange Bell Purple Beauty Tolli's Sweet Italian Bounty Hybrid Fat 'n Sassy Giant Aconcagua Giant Marconi Hybrid Golden Marconi Socrates X3r Hybrid Sweet Spot X3r Sweet Cayenne POTATO (all they had at the feed store...) Red LaSoda Yukon Gold PUMPKIN, Small Sugar RADISH Cherry Belle French Breakfast SPINACH, Bloomsdale SUNBERRY SQUASH, SUMMER z. Italian Harvest Multipick z. Eight Ball z. Black Beauty SQUASH, WINTER Waltham Butternut Potmarron Lakota Queensland Blue Buttercup Thelma Sanders Sweet Potato Sweet Dumpling Gold Nugget Buttercup Rouge Vif d'Etampes TOMATILLO, Dr. Wyche Yellow WATERMELON Moon and Stars Crimson Sweet Blacktail Mountain ORIENTAL GREEN Shanghai Green Choy Extra Dwarf Pak Choy ANNUAL & PERENNIAL FLOWERS AMARANTHUS (ornamental only) Autumn Palatte Magic Fountains Coral Fountain ANGELONIA BACOPA BEGONIA Show Angels Mix Nonstop CALENDULA Triangle Flashback Flashback Citrus Smoothies Apricot & Oranges Pink Surprise Chrysantha Citrus Cocktail Porcupine CLEOME Violet Queen Rose Queen COLEUS, Giant Exhibition COREOPSIS COSMOS Cosmic Orange Bright Lights Polidor Mix Sunrise Yellow Garden Redcrest FOUR O'CLOCK, Marrakesh GAILLARDIA Arizona Sun aristata mix GAZANIA, Daybreak Petticoat Mix GERANIUM Inspire Appleblossom Horizon Rose Ice Orbit Salmon GODETIA GOMPHRENA, Strawberry Field HELIOTROPE Mini Marine Blue Wonder "garden" (heirloom) HOLLYHOCK Fig Happy Lights mix Single Mix Spring Celebrities HYACINTH BEAN VINE IMPATIENS, Fanciful Mix Improved MILLET, Foxtail White Wonder NASTURTIUM Caribbean Cocktail Alaska NICOTIANA langsdorfii sylvestris Tinkerbell Marshmallow Lousiana Piroque NICONDRA, Splash of Cream PETUNIA, Aladdin Nautical Mix POPPY o. 'Coral Reef' p. 'Angel's Choir' Danish Flag Imperial Pink Heirloom Corn poppy RUDBECKIA Cappuccino Spotlight Autumn Colors Goldstrum Cherry Brandy Prairie Sun RUELLIA SALVIA f. Victoria coccinea Coral Nymph SUNFLOWER Van Gogh Mix Arikara Mix Italian White PRAIRIE SUNFLOWER Ox Eye THUNBERGIA TITHONIA VERBASCUM Southern Charm Snow Maiden Copper Rose YARROW Summer Berries Love Parade ZINNIA white star Apricot Blush Whirligig profusion, Apricot profusion, Coral Pink profusion, double golden profusion, deep apricot profusion, white Bennary's Giant, Orange Bennary's Giant, White Bennary's Giant, Salmon Rose Bennary's Giant, Lime Bennary's Giant, Golden Yellow Bennary's Giant, Coral Bennary's Giant, Bright Pink Starbright Mix Old Mexico LADY'S MANTLE, Thriller HERBS - BASIL Genovese Sweet Poppy Joe's Thai Holy Kaprao BORAGE BRONZE FENNEL CATMINT Felix blue carpet Select Blue CATNIP CHIVES CHINESE CHIVES CILANTRO CULANTRO aka Vietnamese Coriander ECHINACEA White Swan Magnus Bravado Yellow (native wild) Prima Donna Deep Rose Prairie Splendor THYME English (vulgaris, sometimes also called German) and creeping LEMON GRASS PARSLEY SAGE common white broad leaf SUMMER SAVORY GREEK OREGANO Here's looking forward to it all going great guns and a happy planting season! Ada

Gamebird, The tomatoes should be fine. If the nighttime and daytime temperatures cooperate with you, you should get fruitset, even from plants that were tiny when planted, in June. If the fruits set in June, they should mature in July or early August. If you can keep the plants healthy.....and it is easier some years than others....they'll bloom and set tons of fruit in the fall. Keeping the plants healthy and growing well through the heat of the summer is part technique (heavy mulching, enough water and fertilizer, but not too much, addressing insect issues early on before they get out of hand, etc.) and part luck (if early blight hits hard in a wet year, it can be hard to control, for example). Sometimes you can do everything right, but still can't get the plants through the summer because the heat is so brutal some years and the insects are brutal in other years. (For what it is worth, one reason you avoid overfertilization is that both disease and insects hit overfertilized plants much harder than those that are fertilized "just right" or even underfed.) That's why I start new tomatoes for fall....it is just a way of hedging one's bets, so to speak. Actively growing tomatoes in nice weather like we're having now can easily put on 1" of new growth per day, and often more. So, it may be surprising to see how quickly your plants attain a decent size even if they were small when set out. There are different options for fall tomatoes and I use them all: 1. You can start plants from seed in earliest June to transplant in early to mid-July. I like to do this because it allows me to grow more varieties per year. So, if I grow 50 to 60 varieties in the spring garden, I might add 30 to 35 more for fall. 2. You can take cuttings from healthy plants in the last week to ten days of June, root them in soil or water (whichever you prefer), harden them off if they were rooted indoors (I like to root outdoors in dappled shade and move them out into fuller sun as the roots develop), and plant them in the ground in early to mid-July. 3. You can finish your harvest from the spring-planted tomatoes no later than about the third week in July (even if it means harvesting some green tomatoes), cut back the plants hard and depend on new growth from those plants to start producing fruit when the temperatures fall back into the proper range, which generally happens in early to mid-September, but can happen in a cool (relatively speaking) August. To get the cut-back tomatoes back into a good growth cycle, I usally feed them once a week with either liquid seaweed of Alaska fish fertilizer for about the first month after they were cut back. Or, you can top dress them with a good tomato fertilizer that will wash into the root zone each time the plants are watered. 4. You generally can purchase tomato transplants from a nursery or store in July for fall tomatoes, although many stores have a very, very, very limited selection of plants at that time, and often all they have is the "heat setting" types bred to set fruit in higher temps. There are quite a few heat setters, and one of the best was Merced, which is no longer sold, although a few wholesalers bought up a large seed stock when told this variety was going out of production. Celebrity sets well in the heat most years, and some of the newer heat-setting types include Heat Wave II (which obviously replace Heat Wave), Solar Set, Solar Fire, Sun Leaper, and Sun Master. There also are a few traditional tomatoes that have been bred for hotter climates, and these include Tropic, Creole, Arkansas Traveler and Porter or Porter Improved. Sioux is an heirloom that sets well all summer long, and Super Sioux is an improved Sioux that also sets well in heat. Every cherry, currant, grape or pear-shaped bite-sized variety I've ever grow sets fruit all summer long, but the larger varieties are all heat-challenged to a certain degree. The problem with most heat-setting types is that you can definitely tell that they were bred for the heat, and they were not (at all) bred for flavor. 5. You often can "baby" your spring-planted tomato plants and get them through the summer just fine. One way to help them survive the July and early August heat is to give them a lot of shade. You can do this by errecting shade cloth or lattice work above them. Some people build hoophouse style frames of PVC pipe and drape the top of them with shade cloth or aluminet, or even with old bed sheets or cheesecloth. Anything that helps shade the plants during the hottest part of the summer helps them deal with the other summer stresses better. Keeping water off the foliage to the extent that you can helps them get through the summer. That's why irrigation low to the ground (soaker hoses, drip lines, PVC pipes with holes drilled in them, or the Texas Pot Method) is preferrable to overhead watering using a sprinkler. Foliage that gets wet is very prone to Early Blight in our climate, and there really is no cure for early blight although good cultural practices can help reduce its impact. You also have to have "luck". Many insects vector diseases that will kill your plants before you know what hit them. Two of the "newer" and, therefore, less recognizable diseases, that are hitting tomatoes hard in some parts of the country are Tomato Spotted Wilt Virus and Tomato Yellow Leaf Curl Virus. Both are spread by insects. Spider mites can be devastating to tomato plants as well, although they are not an insurmountable problem if you catch them early. Finally, "perfect" green and healthy tomato plants in late July to early August seem to attract severe thunderstorms with hail and high wind, so no matter what you do, sometimes Mother Nature wins. The reason your grocery store potatoes sprouted erratically is probably because of the anti-sprouting agent that the wholesaler sprayed on them before shipping them to the retailers. It doesn't necessarily coat each potato the same and wears off unevenly. You generally have to use grocery store tomatoes for fall because certified seed potatoes are not available in mid- to late-summer. I'd always choose to use certified seed potatoes if they were available. Shekannah, My potatoes starting blooming early last week--and you know what that means.....our potatoes are about to start setting tubers. My poor potatoes, which were planted just slightly later than the recommended potato planting time, froze back to the ground 3 times. I finally replanted to replace some that didn't come back after the last freeze. Some of the potatoes survived, but then I lost others when the 12" of rain fell in one day and the ground stayed terribly wet forever. (Parts of the garden are STILL terribly wet, but we had 18" of rain in 5 weeks, so there's a price you pay for that.) So, it has been a hard year for potatoes and I am just proud of all the ones that survived the weather long enough to grow, bloom and set tubers. I'm looking forward to (hopefully) better conditions for the fall potatoes. Dawn

Seeds received...! Alana, I just gotta say "WOW!!" Thank you *so VERY much* for *hosting* and coordinating this, as well as for paying particular attention to participant's prefered wants, etc.! Major thanks, also, to *ALL* of you extremely generous contributors! What a WONDERFUL, *FUN* experience this RR seed swap has been,...my first, but certainly not my last! Also participated in the "Secret Santa Seed Swap 2009", which has been equally fantabulous! What a totally fab community this is! Y'all *ROCK*!! :) "Merry Christmas, everyone, and a prosperous New Year in every way conceivable!"

hello well I'm fully into getting ready to move(funny we have not evan listed the house or looked at a new one yet) but I'm going throug 10 years of accumulated stuff and getting rid of much of it. my aim is to get most unnessasary stuff packed and put in storage before we evan list the house. I still need to do some painting and lots of rilly good cleaning. wow I would love to have a house with 3 acres, but we are looking to move to Missouri, about 20 to 30 miles from here, I would like to be much closer to my in-laws farm so I can do much of my gardening there(180 acres should be enough to keep me buisy for a few years) idealy I would like to build a house at the farm but it is over a mile to the nearest house, and I'm not sure I want to be so isolated. well I can't wait to see what I get..... stay warm everyone michelle