I do quite a bit of cat trapping, and sometimes I get other species. I've never caught a skunk, but I've learned what to do from people who have, and have some suggestions below. But I don't get all whacked out about skunks. They aren't very aggressive, and if you leave them alone, they usually leave you alone. They only spray if they feel threatened. They're also useful, as they eat mice, and will dig up underground yellowjacket nests (esp if you mark the spot at dusk with some cheap dollar store syrup). Yes, they can carry rabies, but so can raccoons, dogs, cats, rodents, bats, sheep, llamas, cows, horses and all other mammals. If you think an animal is rabid, immediately call 911, your sheriff's department, Fish/Game/Wildlife, and your county Animal Control. If you had a dog, you wouldn't have skunks, as they don't hang around dogs. Even a small house dog will leave doggy urine and scent around. Your skunk may well have babies under the house, since they breed from April to early June. If you catch or kill her now, they will die, and possibly stink as they rot. If you wait and watch later in summer when the babies are mobile (probably just before dusk), you might be able to watch them leave, then immediately close off access to the places under the house. I don't know if they are as insistent as raccoons about getting back under the house. You could wait until late summer, and attempt to trap her, but you would need an open pickup truck for transportation. DO NOT put a trapped skunk in your car trunk, or you will never get the smell out, and no one will buy it. Buy or borrow a trap, but it absolutely must have a V type 'door', where the outer flap or frame of the V can be anchored down. When the trap is set, this part must not be anchored down, or the animal can get out of the trap (which is what you want after you have transported the skunk, but not before). The ones with solid door(s) are best with skunks, as you won't be exposing yourself to a direct hit if you keep it between you and the skunk when you're releasing it. (NOTE: the people I've spoken to who have trapped skunks said none of the skunks sprayed while inside the trap. They suspect that it may be because they feel they can't raise their tails high enough, or they can't get their hindquarters off the ground. BUT don't depend on this! Your skunk may be different! This is opinion, not documented fact.) Bait the trap at dusk with canned cat food with a little honey or syrup drizzled over the top (skunks like sweets). Pull up the flap and set the trigger. Place the bait on the far side of the trip plate. If you think you've got a smart skunk, lay a long, narrow, single piece of newspaper on the approach and on top of the trip plate. Make sure that outer flap/bar/frame is NOT anchored down. Place the trap near where it comes from under the house, but not right up against the house. Give yourself plenty of room to maneuver. Check the trap first thing in the morning. CAREFULLY. If there is a skunk in the trap, get the brand-new blue plastic tarp you bought for the occasion and open it up. Approach the trap while holding the tarp in front of you, totally covering your head and body. If you can have a helper positioned at a distance who can give directions, it will help. Try not to peek around the tarp if you don't have to. Skunks can hit a target 15 feet away with extreme accuracy, and over 6 feet high. (They will stand on their front legs and lift their back legs entirely off the ground to get proper aim.) When you get to the trap, settle the tarp over it and wrap it around and under it as best you can. Then put the trap in the back of the pickup truck and put up the tailgate (this is not the time to leave it down to save .000002 gallons of gas). Make sure the tarp is secured against wind. Transport the skunk at least 5-8 miles away to a wilderness area, NOT to another residential area. Set the trap on the ground where there are no people around. If you're smart, you won't have any stupid fools or small children with you. If you can put it on a narrow slot between two bushes, that would be good. Carefully remove the tarp from the end that you will release the skunk from. Leave the rest of the tarp around the trap. Press that panel/flap/frame against the door and fasten the latch and QUICKLY get away from the trap. Watch from a distance and see if the skunk finds that it can now push open the door and squeeze out. If it doesn't in a few minutes, you may want to assist (or not). I hope you've brought another tarp. Use it to protect yourself as before, and approach the trap at the rear (the end you want the skunk to exit is the 'front'). Gently lift up the back end of the trap and hopefully the skunk will slide out the other end, its weight pushing the door open. It should just leave. Raccoons and opossums just run or amble away. (If this seems too tricky for you, just take a book, get back into the truck, and wait for the skunk to find her own way out, then retrieve the trap.) This is not the time to let your attention wander. Keep it on the skunk. If you get sprayed by a skunk, use the following recipe to get it off. DON'T pre-wash with anything, even water! Mix it in a plastic (not metal) container. (Personally, I would take all the ingredients in a plastic bucket with me to the skunk relocation point, just in case.) 1 quart unopened hydrogen peroxide (unopened is crucial) 1/2 cup baking soda 2 tsp dish detergent (Dawn, Joy, etc) Wash all affected areas with this mix, and let it sit on your skin/hair for 10 minutes, then rinse thoroughly. Use ALL of the mix -- it can't be saved. If you put it in a closed container after mixing, it will explode. DON'T DO IT! Keep this mix out of your eyes. Don't waste your time with tomato juice, vinegar or any of the other old home remedies -- they don't work. If you have a large drugstore and want to keep anti-skunk supplies on hand, get the large econo size hydrogen peroxide, and ask if they have Tricotine concentrate douche mix. This is the only other stuff that will remove the smell. Tricotine is safe for use around eyes, and on faces (people's and pet's). Both these are also suitable for use on skunked pets. Info on skunks linked below. Sue Here is a link that might be useful: Info about skunks

Hi Beacon, I'm not familiar which type of critters you have there in Sevierville, maybe one of this family, sawfly or a leafcutter bee they both nibble pieces out of the edges of the leaves, apart from being unsightly they don't really harm the plant. Provado also deters white fly as well as killing vine weevil larvae, it might kill off any larvae that is lurking in your soil that was put there by your insects. You could always give it a try, it won't do any harm if you use the type that is watered into the soil. I wouldn't use the Provado Spray, thinking of your hummers - Kath:)

Thanks for a number of safe and inexpensive remedies. I haven't had much luck with anything I've tried with ants and grits didn't for me work either. I have used the Irish Spring soap for deer and it does seem to help. I put mine in used onion bags and hang on shepard hooks around the perimeter. I read that chives planted with roses will prevent black spot after two years. I planted several small divisions around mine to see if it works. I don't like to use pesticides since I grow many perennials and shrubs to attract hummers, butterflies and birds. Keski

That looks to be more of a disease organism rather than the signs of insect damage. Basil is particularly prone to fungal issues so best to avoid crowding the plants (provide good air circulation) and avoid getting water on foliage. And Google "basil downy mildew" to see if that might be the problem and the suggested controls. As a first step, I'd suggest just pinching off any affected foliage. If that doesn't halt the problem you could also try the Neem oil - it has strong fungicidal properties. And is considered a safe, organic product. Just rinse thoroughly any produce that has been treated before eating. I'm not sure I'd be much concerned about the leaf miners. The damage they do is just cosmetic. It doesn't harm the tomato plants so no need really to treat.