skip to main content

Fruit & Orchards

Blackberry and blueberry bush diseases?

ilovecucumbers Zone 6b, NE PA

9 years ago

Hi there,

First, there's been tons of rain here in past few days.

On the blackberry leaf: pest or fungus? See also the dead leaves on blackberry branch. Otherwise, the bush is as vibrant as ever. But I'd like to treat this fast, depending on what it is.

Blueberry bushes are new--put in this April. They are bearing, but parts of them are dying, it looks like. What's with the aged-looking bark? What do these bushes need? They are mulched with a high-grade brown landscape mulch, but were planted by a guy who grew up on a farm and is into organic gardening, so I trusted him.

If anyone can tell me what may be going on with either the blackberry or blueberry bushes, I'd be grateful.

Sort by:Oldest

Comments (10)

ilovecucumbers Zone 6b, NE PA
Original Author
9 years ago
The dead leaves on the blackberry bush
ilovecucumbers Zone 6b, NE PA
Original Author
9 years ago
Dead and dying blueberry branches
Related Discussions
Blueberries-Identifying blueberry bushes?
Q
Comments (2)
Duke and patriot are both earlier varieties that fruit before bluecrop. I also think Patriot tastes better than Duke. If you're going to plant more, I'd recommend also planting some different varieties in addition to the above 3, which are standard, dependable commercial varieties, but aren't necessarily bred for the best flavor (although, unlike some fruits, the commercial varieties still taste good). Legacy is a productive, disease resistant, and very tasty, as is Brigitta. I'd also add a fast growing rabbiteye to the mix (Premier or Yadkin?), a southern highbush (Southmoon is supposed to be one of the best tasting) and one of the season extending varieties such as Elliot or Aurora. Attached is a useful chart with more useful flavor ratings than most (I don't know anything about the nursery). See also the longer list at http://www.fallcreeknursery.com/Commercial/VarietyChart.htm See: http://www.danfinch.com/zone.htm for rabbiteyes (a nursery I do have experience with and recommend). Hartmann's also has a huge selection of blueberries and Edible Landscaping sells potted blueberries year round (both recommended sources). Here is a link that might be useful: varieties
...See More
HAVE: Cuttings-Ivy, butterfly bush, pear tree, blueberry bush, e
Q
Comments (0)
I am looking to exchange plant cuttings for propagation. I have cuttings from ivy, butterfly bush, a pear tree, blueberry bush, azalea (white and pink), small cuttings from rosemary, lavender, mint, Pink Chinese Loropetalum, and I just successfully rooted a pinnapple that I am willing to trade.. I am open to most cuttings but am looking for rasberry, and blackberry bushes, and fruit trees other than pears, different varieties of what I already have, cherry tree, cherry tree blossom, maple, magnolia, willow, hydrangia, jasmine, westeria, just let me know what you have. :-) I will give you better contact info over email.
...See More
WANTED: Blueberry, Blackberry, and boysenberry bushes
Q
Comments (1)
My DH went to Lowes in Cleburne and bought some big healthy blueberry bushes for $1.00 each. They were marked down from $9.97 each. You might call your nearest Lowes and see if they have any.
...See More
blueberry or blackberry ? (or muscadine?)
Q
Comments (4)
Strawberries would be the first to produce. Most literature suggest planting annually in the fall in humid 9b due to difficulty keeping plants alive in the summer. Chandler and sweet charlie are good cultivars. They should be planted in the fall. I planted about 75 last year, half in raised beds and half in containers. The ones in containers survived better than the ones in ground. Southern highbush (of which sunshine blue is one variety) produces in late April, May. They need good draining soil (both surface and internal). Most plant them on raised beds to improve drainage. Blueberries must have acidic soils, best when pH is between 5.5 to 4.5. Rabbiteye varieties produce later. With Southern Highbush and Rabbiteye, it is best to have 2 or 3 different varieties of each for pollination. Blackberries will come off around the same time as Rabbiteye blueberries. Natches is suppose to be a good variety of thornless blackberries. Thorn type (such as Kiowa) will have less bird problems. The thorns keep birds from getting to the berries. Muscadine grape vines are usually spaced about 10 to 12 feet apart on a trellis. Most produce in July and August. You will have to prune about 70 to 90 percent each year to get good yields and grape size. Make sure and get self fertile varieties if you are only going to plant a couple.
...See More
ilovecucumbers Zone 6b, NE PA
Original Author
9 years ago
More dead/dying blueberry branches, on another bush
Ernie
9 years ago
I see no obvious problems with your blueberries. The leaves that are visible look reasonably healthy, as do the canes themselves. Did the branches that concern you ever leaf out? If not, then the bushes are probably just balancing the top growth with what the roots can support at this point. The added stress of allowing them to fruit the first year after planting might also be limiting growth. How are you fertilizing them? Is the soil pH where it should be (under 5.5 or so)? Also, although it sounds like they have plenty of water right now, be sure to be very attentive to water through the summer. Blueberries need consistently moist (but not waterlogged) soil in order to thrive, especially when they're first getting established.

This post was edited by shazaam on Fri, Jul 4, 14 at 13:20
fruitnut Z7 4500ft SW TX
9 years ago
Blueberries have rapid turnover of shoots. Some are always dying. Feed enough and they'll grow back twice more. Yours look short on fertilizer, mainly nitrogen. Feed them regularly with fert for acid loving plants. If you do they'll be green and lush with shoots and leaves rather than those open areas and dying shoots.
Fascist_Nation
9 years ago
In photo order:
1. bird turd
2. fluorocane post harvest
3&4. using an acid fertilizer?
fruitnut Z7 4500ft SW TX
9 years ago
Delete, double post??

This post was edited by fruitnut on Fri, Jul 4, 14 at 16:16
ilovecucumbers Zone 6b, NE PA
Original Author
9 years ago
Seriously, I stressed over a bird turd?

I have 4 other blueberry bushes, which I fertilize in the spring and fall. They're small, but good producers. I didn't think I needed to fertilize the new bushes, but I forgot that I should not have let them fruit.

I just did some research, and the University of Maine extension service says in year 1, to use 10-10-10 or ammonium sulfate. I will fertilize them tomorrow, and many thanks.
jtburton
9 years ago
That blackberry cane is quite small for a floricane post harvest. I'm not saying it diseased but it looks like the result of Verticillium Wilt. If it is, there's not much you can do about it anyway.

In your last photo of your blueberry, that bottom stem has bands of discoloration. Could again be a soil-based problem.

Hardwood mulch has its uses but I stopped using it because if you have an extended period of wet weather, it will keep your soil too moist and create the conditions for soil-based diseases like verticillium wilt and phytophthora root rot. If your soil is clay then you can expect this to happen. If you have lighter soils that drain well, you might be OK.
ilovecucumbers Zone 6b, NE PA
Original Author
9 years ago
You should have seen how small this blackberry bush was just a few months ago. Just the same, I'll keep an eye on it...I hope you're wrong.

Re the blueberries--beneath the mulch, the soil is good loam. We're thinking of pine straw for next year. There's a lot of mulch to get rid of, though.

Would it help to move the mulch away from the base of the plant? If so, how far away?

As with so many other things it's watch and wait...and I am going to fertilize, cautiously, to see if that improves things.

Related Stories

EDIBLE GARDENS Summer Crop: How to Grow Blueberries

By Marianne Lipanovich

Plant blueberries in spring or fall for garden beauty through three seasons — and a sweet superfood in summer

CONTAINER GARDENS Patio-Perfect Berry Bushes Like You’ve Never Seen

Small enough for pots but offering abundant fruit, these remarkable bred berries are a boon for gardeners short on space

GARDENING FOR BUTTERFLIES Gardening for the Bees, and Why It’s a Good Thing

By Benjamin Vogt / Monarch Gardens

When you discover how hard bees work for our food supply, you may never garden without them in mind again

GARDENING GUIDES 9 Low-Growing Hedges That Make Good Neighbors

Define garden areas or borders without blocking the view, with these evergreen shrubs that take kindly to trimming

FARM YOUR YARD Houzz Call: Home Farmers, Show Us Your Edible Gardens

By Stacy Briscoe

We want to see where your tomatoes, summer squashes and beautiful berries are growing this summer

GARDENING GUIDES 15 Favorites for Your Summer Edible Garden

By Marianne Lipanovich

Get your summer garden off to a good start with these popular fruits and vegetables

FALL GARDENING 7 Reasons Not to Clean Up Your Fall Garden

By Benjamin Vogt / Monarch Gardens

Before you pluck and rake, consider wildlife, the health of your plants and your own right to relax

FARM YOUR YARD If You Have Room for Only One Fruit Tree ...

Juice up a small garden with one of these easier-care or worth-the-effort fruit trees for a mild climate

GARDENING GUIDES Yes, You Can Grow Food in a Shady Yard

Your shady garden doesn’t have to be forever barren. Berries, herbs and other shade-loving plants can produce a delicious bounty

FRONT YARD IDEAS 10 Ideas for a Front-Yard Edible Garden Your Neighbors Will Love

By Laura Gaskill

Choosing attractive, well-mannered plants and sharing the bounty will go a long way toward keeping the peace

Sponsored

Davidson Builders

1 Review

Franklin County's Full-Scale General Contractor

More Discussions

Identify an olive tree that is nit flowering after more than 15 years.

8

Advice on planting blueberry plant

9

Whats wrong with my apple tree?

18

Peach tree dead buds

2

What's causing this strawberry problem?

2