I would agree w/ Hman's comment. Not that I'm trying to bash Stark's, but there are plenty of quality nurseries which give rootstock info. That said, I'm really getting disappointed with Adams. Out of about 150 peach trees I ordered from them in 2012, I've identified 4 trees as being mislabeled. These are trees I've positively identified as mislabeled through bloom or fruit set. In some cases I ordered multiple trees of the same variety and (for example) all the trees had a showy bloom but one (clearly mislabeled). I expect I'll discover more mislabeled trees in the future. In one instance I ordered a flat peach (Galaxy) but the fruit is of a regular peach (pretty easy to tell the difference). I understand mistakes happen, but this is too often to be unintentional unless they have very sloppy procedures. I've talked to one other grower who has seen the same thing (i.e peaches supposed to ripen in a certain window, but ripen much earlier or later - clearly not what he ordered). Will I still order from Adams? Probably, because they always seem to have some unique offerings. But I'll be watching closely to see if what I ordered is actually what I receive.

Yes, it probably depends on variety and environmental conditions. The statements I've seen are broad and don't help understand the situation. It's like the research community is aware of the issue, but the rest of the world is mostly oblivious or not concerned. I found two places I saw this: https://ecommons.library.cornell.edu/bitstream/1813/5108/1/FLS-100.pdf "The best rootstocks for apricots are apricot seed- lings. Myrobalan rootstocks have been used quite extensively, but apricots on this rootstock are subject to delayed incompatibility and frequently break off at the bud union three or four years after planting. Peach seedlings have also been used as rootstocks for apri- cots, but trees on peach seedlings are not as long lived as those on apricot seedlings. " http://www.omafra.gov.on.ca/english/crops/facts/02-035.htm "Myrobalan Plum Seedling - These are not normally recommended for use with apricots for several reasons. The graft union between apricot and myrobalan plum (Prunus cerasifera) is weak and may break in a strong wind. Slow decline of apricot trees on Myrobalan seedling rootstock has also been reported. Apricot trees on Myrobalan seedling normally come into bearing later than trees on apricot seedling. Myrobalan seedling rootstock is only recommended for areas where drainage is imperfect and apricot seedling will not perform well. " I think it is a warning to plan your orchard with the expectation of shorter life expectancies and higher losses if you use myrobalan. It should be manageable with a good plan for replacing losses. However, the stakes would be higher for the homeowners that only want one or two trees.

Hello r_f, apricot varieties bred in Canada, western and mid Europe should be much better adaptable to Norway's wet climate than those from central Asia's dry climate. This is very important for the health and disease susceptibility of the tree, especially if you grow them from seeds on their own roots. In various German forums I often read about these central Asian varieties dying just after a few years of growth outside, but I did not read of a single case of a grown up tree or a tree that has fruited yet. I think that (without selection over many plant generations) these central Asian varieties have no chance to withstand our rather steady wet soils over extended periods of time. The latest flowering variety with very good frost resistance of the bloom and good tree health that I know of is 'Kioto', but taste and flavour are not so satisfying. Cultivars that bloom just a little bit earlier (1-2 days) but still very late and that I would recommend are 'Bergeval', 'Harlayne', 'Bergeron' and 'Leskora', with the first two being the most suitable, imho. The last four apricots also show an exceptional resistance against strong cold spells in late winter, very low bloom susceptibility against late frost, and have a very good, balanced taste and flavour. If you have the chance to purchase one of these varieties, I would advise you to choose any type of Wangenheims rootstocks, i.e. 'Wavit', 'Waxwa' or 'Weiwa'. Good luck with your project! Greetings from Germany Michael T. H.

Alcan I only use apple devices they don’t get hacked. Join the Facebook group it’s a bit busy and hard to follow I liked gardenweb a lot better than houzz. If only somebody could startup another forum that runs as I notice the glitchyness of this site too it’s a pain in butt to post on here now. They have newport plum here and I’ve seen muckel plum. I have apricots grafted to sand cherry thats what my trees are on and they produce fruit. I only know because the sucker it shot out was distinctively a sand cherry. I was was hoping somebody with a grafting combination of apricot to euro plum could share the experiences of what types worked. I have apricots growing on my Italian plums but on greengage would not take or survive winter ok. I have a couple flowers on a three year old m604 graft on my Italian plum right now. Pretty excited as I plan on removing all my hybrid plums and planting European plums only as they are much more suitable for Calgary.