I use it regularly on outdoor stuff - have for years. I like it, though I really couldn't say I find it to be head & shoulders above stuff like Osmocote or MG. Though it makes no difference to plants where they get their nutrients from, in the back of my mind I have this feeling that the lower the concentration of fertilizer salts in a container, the less the likelihood of problems with water/nutrient uptake. Frequency of applications vary by plant. Because I am a bonsai grower, I often fertilize at and above recommended doses, but there are plants whose development I want to slow, too. In actuality, the best fertilizer program for best plant health doesn't usually include the inducing of the most robust growth. Heavily fertilized plants will usually be found to have less energy in reserve to fight off insects & infection with various pathogens. In addition, the highly succulent growth produced by heavy applications of nitrogen is favored by insects, making them a more likely target for infestations. Though some might argue the point, it is near impossible to keep containerized plants happy without supplemental nutrients (except for the small percentage that prefer a very spare soil). For most container growers (and I'm talking about the average Joe/Jill) a good policy would be to watch leaf color carefully. If you see signs of chlorosis, or venation, give the plant a half dose of your favorite balanced fertilizer. If, in a week or so, color doesn't improve, another dose is in order. Though the minors (micro-nutrients) are beyond the scope of your question, scarcity of certain elements, particularly in containers, can be a problem. I use a micro-nutrient frit in all my container soils, but as of yet, I have only found it in 50 lb bags & it is expensive (but dosage is small & a little really goes a long way). There is a major producer of fertilizer that has a liquid product on the market that advertises it contains the minor elements. Though I haven't tried it, I would really recommend you try it for containers & houseplants. I'm not sure, but I think Schultz makes it. Perhaps some one can help me here? Good luck. Al

I've been a bit amused by recommendations about molasses as a fertilizer. It contains, we are told, calcium, magnesium, iron, and potassium, as well as some micronutrients. Of course, molasses is just heat-processed sugar and granulated sugar is *much* less expensive than molasses. Just scoop some sugar on your plants, and you'll get all the same nutrients. The "old wives tale" about molasses is because in the days of old wives, molasses was the handiest form of sugar. It isn't anymore. But really, is that even a good idea? Scooping sugar on plants? Now there are many ways to get those atomic nutrients. We're also told that plants need "carbohydrates" to grow. Now, photosynthesis *makes* carbohydrates (including sugars) for the plants, and most carbohydrates are molecularly complex enough that they simply can't get in the roots. So added sugar in soil may not do much good for the plants. In fact, plant roots exude simple sugars and amino acids in low concentrations to help promote beneficial soil bacteria. That's a kind of symbiosis. But feeding them with a scoop of simple sugars is kind of like feeding people with energy drinks. The effect is explosive. The sugars are consumed extremely fast by bacteria which multiply quickly. The net effect is a burst in soil bacteria, followed by their large scale death. A much smarter way to feed this bacteria is with organic matter such as compost. That organic matter already contains sugars, minerals, and other nutrients, but in a form that promotes digestive equilibrium.

Yes, I you need about a gallon to reach all the root of a rose right away. A larger rose needs much more. I big climber or shrub, needs about 8 gallons for it to amount to anything. That is at least my experience when I water in periods of drought. Maybe a tiny plant don't need that much, and nutrients will benefit the plant eventually even if it doesn't reach roots right away. Regards I use pure seaweed, often a very fine powder type that dissolves in water easily. That's what I most easily can get here, but the black seaweed extract too some times. I use it much the same way as you do, as something extra two times a season in addition to the solid organic stuff.

I don't soak the cloves at all and they do fine. Garlic has great anti-microbial action all on its own --- it is an AWESOME medicinal food. I can't imagine soaking is really necessary or helpful at all. FataMorgana