Abigail - almost all bagged soils retain what is called 'perched water'. This is water that defies gravity and stays in the pot because the size of particles in the soil is small. Think of pudding, which is nothing more than very small absorbent particles. Most commercially prepared soils support 2-4" of perched water, even when fresh from the bag. This means that no matter the shape or depth of the container, the bottom 2-4" of soil remains completely saturated after the pot has stopped draining. When you use these soils in a shallow pot, it can be a disaster. If you use a soil that supports 3" of perched water in a 4" deep pot, nearly ALL the soil will be completely saturated every time you water. If you try to water in small sips to avoid the saturated soil that causes root rot, you ensure that salt from tap water and fertilizer solutions will build up in the soil and cause the symptoms your plant is exhibiting. Please avoid the combination of soils like MG or other peat-based soils and shallow pots - they don't work well together. The root system of your plant is small because of adverse cultural conditions (too much water and or salt), not because it is genetically programmed to be small. If you use a well-aerated and fast draining soil, even plants that have the shallowest root systems where they naturally occur will fully and happily colonize the the entire container with roots. You don't need a shallow pot to accommodate plants that grow with shallow root systems where they occur naturally. Shallow pots are simply more difficult to grow in and reduce your (watering) margin for error considerably. Using a plastic pot only makes the probability of root issues greater. A terra cotta pot, even if you utilize a cache pot to hide it, is much healthier for your root system than plastic - especially if the pot is shallow. Terra cotta is gas permeable & allows some evaporation through the pot walls. This allows air to return to the soil much faster when using heavy soils, a huge plus for your plant. I wouldn't mist. Misting does nothing to raise the humidity around your plant, unless you mist every few minutes. Misting, especially during the humid days of summer, provides the moist incubation periods that fungal infections need to get started. It also helps top spread infections from leaf to leaf or plant to plant. If your plant is unable to keep up with transpirational needs, misting is not the answer. You'll need to raise humidity levels in the plant's environment and make sure there is a low level of soluble salts in the soil solution. You achieve this by regularly flushing the soil and being smart about the way you fertilize. You can expect your plant to continually decline if it's in a pot that doesn't have a drain hole, and the appearance if the foliage to get worse. The reason comes back to the soluble salts issue I mentioned. W/o a drain hole to enable to flush the soil of salts, it is impossible to keep a plant from steady decline, except under the most carefully controlled circumstances, which include organic nutrient sources and watering only with distilled water - a costly pain. Take care. Al

Thuddle, I just noticed your response to me..right now I've 3 clivias and 3 or 4 baggy and pots w/Clivia seeds..I think I'd best stop..they get big.. Thuddle, I started my oldest Clivia from seed in 1982 so it's, what, 34 yrs old..it took that long to fit in a 10" pot..but u know the problem? I repotted last yr, and it's true what they say..Clivia bloom best when potbound..so far I don't see any buds like I normally would this time of yr. So, I'm thinking it might not bloom or if it does won't until late summer. In all the yrs I've had it I only repotted 3 or 4 times since reading they don't like their roots disturbed..I agree now. I enclosed a pic of my Clivia since repotting in a 10" pot. Dove, I replied to your thread about the prayer plant problem. Toni Here is a link that might be useful: RE: Should I repot a Maranta Prayer Plant?

Is it really dry air where you're located? It's not where I am. If it is dry air where you are, then the pebble tray is ok. But I think skip the misting for a while and see how it does. I wouldn't worry too much about your plant. Sometimes overthinking it can make you stressed and the plant doesn't do as well. I had to learn that by trial and error. I also learned that my prayer plant does best when ignored except for watering. No moving around, just leaving it where it is. So here is a photo of mine for comparison. I keep it in a 6" pot and medium light, and water it each time with a low dose liquid fertilizer. I never let it dry out completely- I let it go until the pot feels lighter, then I water. Plastic pots are best for these plants, with good drainage. It really should be hung from the ceiling now, but it does ok draping over this little hamper. At night, the leaves move so they are vertical, like yours in the first photo. That is why its called a prayer plant, like hands together praying. Also, weirdly, this plant likes to grow during our winter. I know that's strange, but it really does. Eventually your plant will grow large enough so that if there is a leaf with brown edges, you can just cut it off. I wouldn't do any trimming right now to yours though, because it's much smaller and needs the leaves to photosynthesize. Sometimes, if it's really quiet towards night and you set something next to the plant, sit and wait, you can hear and see the leaves moving because it gets caught on whatever is sitting next to it. Pretty neat.

Yes, it looks like a medicinal herb Lactuca canadensis https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lactuca_canadensis#Uses on steroids. You probably fertilize your flower beds quite liberally Diane! Comp with https://extension.umass.edu/landscape/weeds/lactuca-canadensis