Hemnancy, It sounds like you've got basically a wild-type tree. Two inches long is considered rather small. The flavor may be fine, but once you eat one of the large cultivars, you won't be satisfied with a fruit that's more seed than flesh. Your tree may have dropped its fruit because it was ripe. Usually it's ripe when it drops on its own, but it's often better to pick just before it's finished ripening and let it finish up inside in a day or two. As was stated by wild forager, the nose knows when it's time to pick. When they start to give off their characteristic odor, you can pick them and let them sit on you counter top. Pick too early and they may never ripen at all. Too late and they turn black on the outside and bitter on the inside. A light frost is OK, but fruit that has not started the process of ripening can be prevented from ripening at all by a freeze in my experienc. By all means get some grafted cultivars, but don't buy those little one year old grafts that most nurseries sell for $24.95. You'll wait another 8 years for fruit. Since you have two established trees, buy or trade for some scion wood and graft to your trees. It will get you fruit faster and cheaper. If you encourage a few root shoots that inevitably come up around your trees, you can graft onto them, or you can topwork your non-productive tree or one of its branches.

Hello, lucky p and bangstrom -- Thanks for looking at the pics. OK, I won't worry.. I thought it was weird because the yellowing leaf (which fell off when I touched it yesterday) was also sort of turning black around the veins, as are a few other leaves still firmly attached. Most of the dots are stationary, but a few rub off, so looks like they're eggs. They come off easily, so that's what I'm doing. These little paw paws sure are pretty, though. I will keep you abreast of significant developments. Bernard-in-Ohio

I would not entirely discount the idea of sun stress. My pawpaws did this too when they were younger (no holes in the leaves or ground though). One variety may be more susceptible to sun damage than the other. I had mine in pots and was able to bring them under the porch so they got only early morning direct sun. They just really took off when I moved them. One of mine did show more signs of stess than the other. I have NC-1 and Pennsylvania Golden. It may be that a little shade will help the tree fight off what ever else is stressing it?

If they were mine,I'd probably give them some morning sun only for now.The leaves will most likely continue to burn because of the recent transplant,if left in full sun.Some shade is best in the hottest periods of the day. It's getting a little late in the year to fertilize now.I use Hollytone or Jack's 21-7-7 or 20-20-20.Miracle-Gro will also work.Spring into early Summer is the time to apply. Are they two different varieties?They should be for fruiting purposes.Six feet are pretty good size.They could flower next year,but still may not get fruit.They can be helped by transferring pollen manually from one flower to another.I use a small artist paintbrush or Q-tip.The flowers will be female first and then change to male.So hopefully,the trees will put out an abundance of them.Gather some pollen from each tree in separate containers and look inside the flower to find a ripe stigma,when green and sticky and dab some pollen there,from the different variety.It shouldn't take much.Bees won't do it.Flies and some beetles may,especially if there is some smelly meat around them.Also,it's best not to go overboard with a lot of fruit at first,as that may stress the trees.They are the largest native North American fruit. Different kinds of grafts will work,like splice,whip and tongue,cleft or chip budding. Some good info can be found on the Kentucky State University website. Brady Here is a link that might be useful: KSU Pawpaw