Basil and Cilantro should start nicely from seed for you. You can try directly in your potting mix, or I've started in pots with 1/2" of seed starting mix on the top of the potting mix too. Oregano can be more difficult to start from seed, and if you're looking to get a harvest from the plant this year, I would recommend purchasing a starter plant instead of seeding. Thyme grows a little faster than oregano, but again, you'll get a harvest much faster with a start over seed. I am not familiar with that type of soil, but you'll want to make sure it drains well for the thyme and oregano. I mix a succulent or bonsai soil into my potting soil for those, plus rosemary, lavender, and bay. As far as fertilizer, with fresh potting soil, you shouldn't need to fertilize right away. I wouldn't fertilize cilantro at all-it's rather short lived, and I let mine seed into coriander. The basil you might choose to fertilize after a couple months if it's still going. Oregano & Thyme after about 3 months. I use a liquid fish-based fert on my herb pots-I think it's a 4-3-3, and I mix it on the weak side. I go monthly during the growing summer on those that have been potted for a while, then every 2-3 months during the winter when they're more dormant. When I have worms again for vermicompost, then I top dress the compost, or make tea and alternate with fertilizer. manure will have to be properly composted before use.

First decide which vegetables warrant being grown at home. a lot of them are simply less expensive to buy than to grow. Be sure to compare to organic grocery stores prices too if that is your concern. Next, other than too contain the heat (or shield the light) I'm not sure the reflective sides are necessary. It seems to me they would just interfere with tending the plants. 3rd, don't worry about electricty coming in contact with reservoirs (whether due to wick systems or not). You have got to keep light off your nutrients or you'll have algae growth problems. Whatever you use to block the light will also protect from electrical accidents. Plus, are you really that uncertain of your ability to attach a wire to a wall that it may fall unexpectedly. **note: I'm really just kidding in the last statement.** None of the basic simple hydro systems are expensive to set up. Proper aero is but most others will cost less than your lights. a basic ebb n flow system (if you decide against just water a blank nutrient) would probably grow everything you want other than the carrots. For root crops, I've read (haven't done it myself) your best bet is to grow them in sand using a drip irrigation system. a lot of contradiction in hydro on the web (this site included) is because people all have different intensity levels in which they approach hydro. Some take every effort to ensure all due diligence is given to every aspect of the growing system. Others just plop a plant in a bucket of water and change said water every now and again. Neither extreme is necessary but they certainly don't always see eye to eye on how to address issues. Most everyone else is somewhere in between. If I were going to venture into indoor growing (I use hydro outdoors or in sunny windows only, currently), I would invest in a hood that is sealed on the bottom and place inline vents running across the light to draw the hot air out and discharge it outside. As for nutrients: If you're going to hand water each plant you do it the same way you would any planted pot. Water when the soil is dry 1" down. I would probably use a middle of the line nutrient concentration of about 800ppm initially recognizing that with time you'll get a buildup of excess nutrients in the medium. So you'll need to flush them periodically. I might alternate nutrients with plain water to try and keep the medium clean. Anyway, those are my initial thoughts on what you're trying to do. I'm sure other will chime in with their thoughts and experiences and hopefully you'll come away with a better idea of what you're after.

get 4 x HPS reflectorized lamps from HTG supply 400W each - the work horse supply of photons get 2 x Metal Halide pulse start ballast 400W- these are available in kit form from Alladinslights in Ohio, with 2 basic horizontal type reflectors. You will have to contact your local hydroponics store and ask someone to assemble the pulse start ballast for you, and put them in cases. The HPS ballasts come already assembled. This is PITA but well worth it, because now you are using pulse start Metal Halide lamps that are FAR better than conventional MH. The MH provides a rich blue component that plants use to make chlorophyll. The MH lamps are also useful for plants in the vegetative stage. I prefer growing in soil, but what I do is get LARGE tubs (2 ft x 3 ft, that are used for under the bed storage) so I can put my pots in the tubs, and water the plants by pouring water in the tub, like a giant watering saucer). This is cheaper than hydroponics, less to go wrong, and the final result is just as good. This is sufficient light for your garden, and any excess heat you will use to keep your living quarters warm. You need a fan to get rid of excess heat, but actually a quiet 12" type computer fan pushes enough air without driving you nuts from the noise. 2400 Watts will make the room get very warm and will cook the plants unless you can exhaust the heat into a nearby room, and provide a fresh air intake from outside to provide cool or cold air.

Help with planting, soil, placement, lighting.