Scott, I can't understand why after all this time you automatically suggest Surround AND bagging for the northeast. As I've explained here many times, and you apparently can't believe, in the northeast if you protect the trees for the 3 or 4 weeks following petal fall of latest blooming apples it is quite likely that bagging or subsequent sprays will be unnecessary. The orchards I manage cover a fairly wide swath of territory and direct fruit pest insects haven't been an issue for me after the above mentioned time in my part of the northeast. I think it a reasonable assumption that as you go further north there will be less pressure rather than more. Apple fly maggot is the only big question mark, in my opinion, as to whether further protection will be necessary. That and indirect pests like JB's which can't be bagged out. The one exception I've had in my own orchard and not the ones I manage is later plum curculio damage on Euro plums, but out of all the trees I manage I consider this an aberration. She, on pest issues, you should know that the closer the advice comes from your region the more likely the relevancy. I manage orchards from coastal Greenwich up to Canaan CT and from Kingston down to Ossining NY and areas in between.

Not sure about apples, but I know peach and cherry trees can get borers. I just treated my trees with a product that's supposed to kill eggs/larvae in the ground, as well as be taken up by the roots to get the ones that are already under the bark. Not really sure it will work. The only "proven" treatment for borers is illegal now (dursban). The new products don't have a long enough "track record" to be labelled "effective." My cherry has evidence of borers, but the peach is free of them from what I can see - I treated both just in case... Cherries in Utah used to get a little white worm in them if you didn't spray for it - some kind of fruit fly maggot I think. Not sure if that's a problem here or not, I would assume it is(?) As my dad used to say, "what's a little more protein" :P bleh... You can spray for these guys when the cherries are green. You spray the ground, as the adult flies will be emerging from the ground under the cherry tree, and you can spray the tree as well to get the adults that travel from other trees/yards.

Door County in Wisconsin is one place in Wisconsin that is sucessful for cherries and apples, because of its unique weather. The winters in Door county are harsh, about zone 4, but unique. Door County, the 'Thumb' of Wisconsin, is surrounded by the cold water of Lake Michigan. That part of the lake often freezes over as it did this year. In spring, it becomes an icebox that holds back the cherries and apples keeping them from coming out of dormancy until late in the season. For most years, the trees are held back late enough for blossoms to escape a late frost. As a result, the fruit crop in Door County is delayed. Cherries ripen in August whereas in southern Illinois, cherries ripen in late June to early July. Cherries are not sucessful in the remainder of the state. For similar reasons, most of Michigan's cherry orchards are located on the east side of Lake Michigan.

Two books that give good information for Texas peaches are Texas Peach Tree Handbook by Jim Kamas and Growing Fruits and Nuts in the South by William Adams and Thomas Leroy. The pin holes in the leaves are caused by Bacterial Spot. It is controlled in the dormant season by using Copper hydroxide. I use it with dormant oil (oil to kill scale) in late winter before bud break. Too late to use it this year. The copper will kill the leaves. Another main problem you will have is Brown Rot (use captan or Monterey Fungi-fighter. The Monterey seems to work better. Apply before a rain and use according to label until harvest. I try to stop using it 2 to 4 weeks before harvest. Also, remove any mummified fruit and remove from property. The mummified fruit will spread the fungi to other fruit. Worms are another problem. Look up Plum Curculio. They make a distinctive mark ( a slit with a small spot). If you see this on a piece of fruit remove it immediately and spray with a pesticide. I use triazicide. You also have bacteria canker and borers to worry about. You manage canker by not pruning after June and doing most of the pruning just before or at bud break. The borers are control by spraying in the window that they appear, for me in Beaumont it is in late June. I have not sprayed for borers but will if I ever have a problem. Agrilife Extension in your county will have good information. Thinning advice, remove any twins and fruit that is oozing. Thin to about 4 to 6 inch spacing. Remember that the branch must support the full size fruit. If you have a chose between a peach on the end or one a couple of inch closer to the middle I would thin the one on the end. The fruit on the outside will usually be better quality that ones on the inside. Try to open up the middle of the trees so the leaves and fruit will dry quicker. It is easier than it sounds and some people ignore all of the above advice and still produce fruit. I can grow peaches in SE Texas and it is much tougher to grow them here than where you are.