I really do thank you all for your comments. Summer sunshine, Since the original post, two other leaf sprouts are starting a sprout, but just under two of the leaves. As far as the pot you are right, the white pot has no drainage holes, and when trying to remove the inter pot, the plant came out of the inter pot, it had enough root that it didn't fall apart, that's the reason I was wondering if it should be in a larger pot that drains, right now I'm just damping the soil every few days. I keep the plant hanging from the ceiling to keep the cats at bay, so it is getting very indirect light. Christine, thanks for noticing the seedlings. I read the directions and even watched Burpee's video, but until this year after the plants were as you saw them that I found a video by the aforementioned company that was well done and I found out why my plants looked the way you saw them. Last year only a handful grew when transplanted, and those didn't make it, still because of where I live seed sown directly to the garden did mature and made up for the seedlings. The directions are saying I need a plant light, and it didn't sound like putting them in the sun was an option, is there a way to do this without buying several plant lamps. It's just strange that the seed sown directly to the garden are coming up now and doing fine in direct sunlight, but still I would be cutting out about two weeks if i could make the seedlings work. Thanks again, I appreciate any help!

CD - 'bare-rooting' is removing all the old decomposing and compacted soil from your plant's root structure. Depending on the plant, root pruning often accompanies bare-rooting, and has an additional rejuvenating effect on plants for physiological reasons that I won't go into unless you're curious. I'll link you to a thread that covers the advantages of full repots (as opposed to potting up) and root-pruning at the end of this post. What you need most now is a good measure of patience and vigilance over your watering habits. The odds are, if you used a commercially prepared soil, that you'll need to be ultra-careful to avoid over-watering. You want your soil to remain barely damp, about as damp as a well wrung out sponge. I would suggest you start checking just how damp your soil is by inserting a chopstick or skewer deep into the pot. If it comes out cool, damp, or dirty, don't water until it comes out clean. Keep the plant warm and in good light, and just wait for the plant to do what Mother Nature has already programmed it to do - grow well & look good. Hopefully, I'll be able to offer some insight into how you can help that process along. In most cases, the obstacles you have to overcome are directly related to the combination of your soil choice and watering habits. Even things like insect infestations and fungal afflictions can usually be blamed on the weakened condition that results from the stress of a root system that is compromised by the effects of a poor soil that doesn't allow you to water properly. Most of the new members that come to the forum for help have soil-related obstacles to overcome they never knew they had. Most of the seasoned forum contributors that don't have the same obstacles either make their own soils or significantly alter the physical properties (drainage and aeration) of commercially prepared soils to make them better suited for houseplants. When you mention obstacles, it's a perfect lead-in for me to say that what defines us in our abilities as growers is our degree of proficiency at recognizing and eliminating limiting factors, 'obstacles' if you will. The plant is genetically programmed to grow well and look good; all we need to do is to reduce the effects of whatever limits the plant. It sounds easier than it is, yet it's not beyond the grasp of even a beginner. I think if you, and all the less experienced growers, keep an open mind and embrace the idea that your soil choice is likely the one decision that most significantly reduces the primary obstacles you face, you'll be poised to make the largest leap forward you can take at one time. I'd be interested in knowing if you found the link I'm leaving helpful, and if anything I've said moves you to questions. Al Here is a link that might be useful: If you're up for homework ...... click me

Update: This replacement arrived today. I unpack it and look it over carefully - the workmanship on this unit (tailoring) is far better that the one that preceded it. So were two other B-Y recliners that arrived along with it. Alas, a successful replacement was not to be. I unfolded the footrest portion of the recliner and the 'tuck-under' segment has a long 14" scratch across the hide, right in the middle of the piece from side to side. I know I didn't do it unpacking it, so it was done at the B-Y shipping dock. My customer expects delivery on this, so I unbolt the piece (easy, four screws) to see if it was swappable with the exact same model and hide of the one in my store. Imagine my surprise when I fold out that footrest and it has the exact same scratch on it! I call B-Y and tell them these are both coming back to them Next Day Air for hide replacement and I must have them back by Friday. Suggest they find out the cause of this issue as clearly is something that has been occurring. It looks exactly like someone grabbed the piece by the front using a furniture hand truck and the nose blade dug into the footrest, but they tell me no hand truck ever touches it as it comes down a conveyor belt to the shipping department. They will have to figure it out and it appears from the conversation this is not the first occurrence of this long scratch in the 4229 chair. I'm disappointed. Its no good to constantly have to work on issues with new-in-the-box pieces and I will probably either discontinue B-Y in my store at this point or remove them from having floor presence once the existing inventory is sold down. markfromsc....when you ask for quotes (I assume you got one from me) please be sure to ask for recommendations at the same time and I will gladly tell you my thoughts honestly and sincerely. If you just ask for a price, thats all you'll get considering the volume of email I get. Thanks Duane Collie

I am not sure why they said to wait - there is no demand of the plant that would call for that. We have a great many commercial lavender farms in the area and their practice is the one I advise as well. Start pruning your lavender at the end of its first summer. Unpruned lavenders do have a tendency to grow leggy or extend rapidly and if not addressed while still very young, these will develop a very bare woody interior and begin to splay or flop open. Not a nice look :-( So prune at the end of the flowering season (late summer/early fall) beginning that first year, removing the old flower spikes and just an inch or so of foliage. In spring as new growth emerges, you can prune back a bit tighter but never back into bare wood. As the plant matures, this early spring pruning becomes even more important as it keeps the plant compact and dense and encourages additional flowering tips. And prevents the flopping or splaying. So trim back lightly at the end of the season and a bit harder at the beginning of the season as new growth becomes evident.