Pothos Has Brown Growths on Stems
ElizabethCatharine
9 years ago
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pirate_girl
9 years agoElizabethCatharine
9 years agoRelated Discussions
Hibiscus plant has brown growths on stem
Comments (4)indoor hibicus???? .. well.. there are so many H.. i am sure there are houseplant versions ... but i cant ID on these pix ... peeling them off is good enough.. if you can get them all ... they hatched last spring... to be that size already ... ????? your plant is incredibly stressed... you might try the NAME THAT PLANT FORUM to perfect the ID ... and follow thru to the next forum.. for info on how to grow it better.. to reduce stress .. if that big plant is growing in that small cell pack... you can do better ... ken...See MoreNew Spring Growth browning and wilting on Dr. Ruppel - VERY NEW GROWTH
Comments (5)Many thanks. And, yes I agree. Looking at the heuch has me wondering about space limitation and I'm definitely lamenting the caladium as an addition. The Dr. was planted so that the crown was at least 2 - 3 inches below the soil line for winter protection. I just can't get over the fact that the new growth that peaked its head from that crown just flopped so quickly and I have no idea why the other buds on the old wood have failed to respond to the warmer weather. I just can't give up hope, even if it looks bad. I've had good results from moo poo or alfalfa tea bags when dealing with roses on their last leg. Perhaps it'll help heal the damage I may have caused. But if by the end of June there's no significant change, I'm afraid that may be it. Given that it is in a container and the fact that we had a harsh winter in DC, I'm wondering if the below freezing temps may have weakened it. If this doesn't work out and I'm really hoping it does, I refuse to give up on the Dr. b/c it's just such a beautiful clem and will plant another one in a container all on its own. Perhaps I'll do that next to this one just to offset what I've lost....See MorePothos help - all new growth deformed / blackened
Comments (14)Do you live in a large city? While a 2-week wait (or longer) for the soil to dry down is fairly common, commonality doesn't mean the plants that grow in it are going to show appreciation. Let's work on that point, and I have some other ideas that will allow you to make adjustments that might fix whatever is going on. That you can go long intervals between waterings w/o under-watering means there is an excess of water in the grow medium for at least a week after a thorough watering and perhaps longer. I know you've been at GW for awhile now, so you've probably read my tips on how to significantly reduce the amount of excess water your medium can hold. I'll outline them in case you're already familiar. * You can use items in the pot bottom as ballast to displace a large fraction of the grow medium that would otherwise be filled with excess water. * If the pot is of manageable size, moving it downward then sharply upward while holding the pot over the sink can remove ALL excess water from the pot. * You can tip the pot when done watering, which also removes a good measure of excess water. * You can use a wick through the side of the pot exactly where the sidewall meets the bottom (that's the best spot) or through the drain hole. Compare B to A to see what tipping your pots gains you; and compare E to A to see what a wick can do. Figure D is one way of using an item as ballast, but there are other set-ups. Sometimes, when the bark is too large, you'll get stratification where the peat migrates to the bottom of the soil column (causing it to remain wet for long periods) while all the bark is at the top of the soil column; but through the tell, it would seem you'd be picking up on that. Still, it's worth investigating when you repot. Wet soil and organic forms of N can combine to cause ammonium toxicity, and your fertilizer derives all of its N from urea. This is a very common issue but one seldom diagnosed. Your fertilizer doesn't contain Ca or Mg. Garden lime serves as not only a pH adjuster, but as a source of Ca and Mg as well. The magnesium fraction of garden lime is more than 125X more soluble in water than the calcium carbonate it contains, so it's not uncommon for a planting to need a Mg boost after a couple of years, especially when using a fertilizer that contains no Mg. I used to use and recommend MG 12-4-8 or MG 24-8-16 because I hadn't yet found Foliage-Pro 9-3-6. It has ALL nutrients essential to normal growth, and serves admirably as a complete single source nutrition package. I use it for all plants except tomato and hibiscus. For those, I still use it, but I increase the amount of K it contains for hibiscus and tomato by adding ProTeKt 0-0-3, which also contains silicon, which I have found makes a big difference in that it helps plants better tolerate heat/cold, too wet/too dry, insect herbivory and disease pathogens. You might want to try the Foliage-Pro 9-3-6. In the meanwhile, you can try adding a dose of Epsom salts with a solution strength equal to 1/4 level tsp/gal. I almost never recommend dosing with anything aimed at providing a single nutrient, but in this case there is so little probability of a negative result it seems reasonable. Finally, the damage is concentrated in areas of the leaf where the variegation is lightest. If these plants get much foll sun, it could be sunburn. The pigment, chlorophyll, actually protects the leaf's photosynthesizing apparatus from solar overload. Leaf tissues with little to no chlorophyll are much more sun-sensitive than their greener neighbors. Al...See MorePindo palm has brown/black splotches on frond stems
Comments (19)All these elements have a role to play in plants even if they only need to be present in minute amounts. You can look up charts on what plant leaves look like when suffering deficiencies. Most of these can be corrected just by adding correct fertilisers. But sometimes high or low pH can affect take up of elements even though there's plenty present in the soil. Sometimes an over abundance of one element can prevent the uptake of others. It's all a balancing act. I don't know about being "more knowledgeable". Know about some things, but don't know about a lot of others. You know the old definition of "expert"? "X" = unknown quantity "spurt" = a drip under pressure....See Moredellis326 (Danny)
9 years agoElizabethCatharine
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