Lynette & Rj checking in from Pac NW, where we've gotten a brief repreive from the constant rain this week and in its place, bitter cold temperatures and frozen hoses. Our geese are NOT happy! We have 4 Indian Runner ducks, 2 Buff O hens (they're just the best!), 3 Muscovies, 7 geese, I can't remember how many rabbits, a dog and a cat. We'd like to add goats next, but one step at a time. In addition to our menagerie, we both have green thumbs. RJ took over the gardening this past summer and it was equally as bountiful as our first year (though we give credit to our rabbits for their 'contribution'). This is our second year of 'farming' though we both work to support the mortgage on our stratospherically priced 4.5 acres. Property is really REALLY expensive around here! We surpassed two hurdles this past year toward our goal of self sufficiency. First, we took on the rough task of learning to process our own meat. Difficult, but comes with its own quiet rewards. Second, we learned to hay-out by hand, our own tiny pasture, (yes, with a scythe and a rake) and plan to continue growing as much food as we can for our animals, as well as ourselves. Not bad for two middle agers! LF RJ

Thank you so much, Sue. It seems like a great group of folks here. Honestly GW's trade list setup has so far confounded me ;) And regardless I'm not a stickler for formatting. I'm just here to share seeds and am fully open to whatever way the gardener I'm trading with likes to display their lists and am happy to just trade with the traders that are equally flexible. Marbles_n_the_garden, thank you. I am only looking for an edible variety at this time but the offer of Aesculus hippocastanum is much appreciated. Thanks, Amanda

I am glad it isn't the horse chestnuts then ! I tried some chestnuts a few times, I didn't think they were good. Sort of like a mealy potato. I bought some from the Oriental market, fresh, and someone sent me some, too. CHESTNUTS-POSTHARVEST HANDLING -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Chestnuts are easily grown in southern Michigan and usually are of Chinese or Korean origin. They are quite similar to the native American chestnut, but are generally resistant to the blight that killed American trees. They should not be confused with horse chestnut which is closely related to the buckeye and not recommended for eating. Chestnuts available in stores during the fall are usually of European origin. After picking, chestnuts are generally seasoned for several days to remove excess moisture and to retard formation of mold while being stored or shipped. This may be done by spreading the nuts 1 or 2 layers deep on trays made of 1/2-inch mesh hardware cloth. If seasoned 1 to 2 weeks under warm, dry windy conditions, the nuts may dry more than desired, especially if additional drying occurs during storage. If the shell can be pushed in a considerable amount when squeezed between the thumb and forefinger, the nut may have dried too much. Best results are obtained with plump nuts that have not been subject to mold. If chestnuts are to be cooked within several weeks after picking, they do not need to be air dried. If they are to be eaten raw, they generally need at least a few weeks for the starch to slowly change to sugar. This process occurs in both air drying and refrigerated storage. If the nuts are picked and eaten immediately, some may have an astringent taste while others may not. Chestnuts of Korean origin tend to be more palatable when green than chestnuts of Chinese origin. STORING CHESTNUTS - RAW -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- If properly stored, chestnuts may be stored in a refrigerator for several months. Chestnuts dry rapidly in dry air and mold rapidly in damp air. For refrigerator storage, first place the chestnuts in a closed paper sack and leave for 1 to 2 days until they have reached refrigerator temperature. Then transfer them to a sealed plastic sack and punch about a dozen holes in the plastic with a medium sized nail. A good method for storing freshly harvested chestnuts in a refrigerator is to use milk cartons and dry peat moss (as it comes from the package). If the chestnuts are separated by the dry moss and the package tightly closed, the nuts should stay in good condition for several months. Freshly dug sand can also be used. Use sand that has been dried in the sun with occasional mixing until it is only very slightly damp. The sand should be cooled before use in the milk carton. Sand also keeps chestnuts in good viable condition for 2 years by storing the freshly picked chestnuts in sealed plastic bags and maintaining a temperature of 26 degrees Fahrenheit to 30 degrees Fahrenheit. (This temperature range requires special refrigeration). If molding occurs in the refrigerator, the nuts may be washed and/or scrubbed to remove mold, and placed on paper toweling- with 1 or 2 paper changes- and then allowed to room dry for several hours. After drying, place again in a paper sack in the refrigerator until they are chilled, then transfer to a clean plastic bag with holes punched in it. If mold persists on the nuts for an extended period of time, the kernels may become "off-color" and no longer edible. If mold has been present, any bad kernels can be spotted by cutting the nuts in half before cooking. STORING CHESTNUTS-COOKED -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Cooking methods: 1. Roasting: For roasting over an open fire, use a covered utensil with a long handle. For roasting in an oven, try a temperature of 300 degrees Fahrenheit for about 15 minutes. Experiment a bit with oven setting and length of time to suit your own preference. When properly roasted, the kernel may be removed with a small fork, dipped lightly or completely in melted butter, and salted to taste. CAUTION: Do not roast chestnuts unless you have punctured the shell with at least 1 or 2 holes. If this is not done, the build up of steam pressure within the shell can cause the nut to explode even after they have been removed from the oven. A sharp-pointed instrument such as an ice pick or knife is good for putting holes through the shell. Leaving one nut unpunctured is one way of knowing when the nuts have roasted long enough - when it explodes, the other nuts should be done. 2. Boiling: First cut the chestnuts in half with a sharp knife. Use a rather shallow pan with cover, using only enough water so nuts are not completely covered. Bring nuts to a boil, then reduce the heat and boil for 15 to 20 minutes. Drain, allow to cool a bit, the kernels should come out readily. The longer the nuts are cooked,the mealier the kernels become and the more they will crumble upon removal from the shell. Chestnuts may also be boiled vigorously in a deeper kettle with more water. After a few minutes, the kernels will begin to fall out of the half shells. Drain, remove the rest of the kernels from the shells and cook as much as desired in another kettle of fresh water. 3. Steaming: Cut chestnuts in half, and try an initial steaming time of 8 to 10 minutes. Drain and cool a bit and remove any kernels which haven't already fallen out. A small fork may then be used to spear the kernels for dipping in melted butter with salt added if desired. Steaming is considered by some to be the best method for an easy removal of the kernel and is probably best for nuts which have dried a bit too much. Steamed kernels may also be added to other recipes. 4. Microwave oven: Use of the microwave oven can give excellent results with the inner skin and outer shell separating easily from the kernel. Results obtained depend on the number of nuts being cooked, the degree of dryness of the nuts, the setting of the oven, and the length of time involved. Cut nuts in half, and place the cut end down on a double layer of paper toweling. For a start, try using 8 medium-sized nuts and a roast setting for 2 minutes. A bit of experimenting is necessary. Cooked chestnuts may be kept in the refrigerator in jars for a considerable period of time or in the freezer for even longer.

Another santa thrilled to be able to ride with the Rudolph Rangers again. Rudolph has promised to stick to Iceland Moss and not browse the following next summer - any flowers for summer color; I love blues in a partially shaded garden with shrub roses; Hope to make a white/moon garden in partial shade behind the house; love white/blue/orange and related hues on side and front gardens with more sun. Amsonia hubrichtii Cleome hassleriana white Dictamnus albus Impatiens glandulifera alba, or any species excluding walleriana or balsamina or capensis Hemerocallis (Daylily) - seeds from any Late, Fragrant ones, but prefer white, cream, pale yellow, sherbet- or burnt-orange/apricot or very dark dusky reds or purples Papaver (Poppy) - any low, ground-hugging species, like Papaver triniifolium (already have P. alpinum. Lower cultivars of Papaver nudicaule would be wonderful. Papaver rhoeas 'Dawn Chorus' or 'Angels' Choir' - includes taupes, dusky colors, tiny sharp apricots, doubles Petunia - fragrant; including velvet dark purple or white or veined or Aladdin's Lamp Salvia arizonica (z5, dry shade, long-blooming) Salvia azurea grandiflora white/alba Salvia chamaedryoides (silver leaves; blue or white flowers) Salvia cyanescens - blue or white flowers Salvia greggii or its hybrids - white or near-white flowers Salvia guarnitica Salvia hypargeia Salvia jurisicii Salvia rubescens Torenia - bicolor black-purple with violet-blue or similar Tropaeolum (Nasturtiums) - cream, yellow-tinged white, apricot, orange, black-red; prefer trailers; any unusual species, as well as more common ones - - - - - - - - - - - Woody Plants - Daphne mezereum alba Prunus mume - - - - - - - - - Vines Trachelospermum jasminoides