Hi Eskota, Pruning sealer is something that Gator and I disagree on. As has been mentioned, Linda Chalker-Scott is not the end-all authority for horticulture, but at least her conclusions are scientifically based. Below is a link of what she has to say regarding pruning sealer. I do think Bug Juice could have a small slight residual benefit if you are concerned about borers colonizing a pruning wound. Not that there is anything particularly special about Bug Juice (i.e. Deltamethrin) vs. other pyrethroids, but any broad spectrum insecticide will tend to slow borers down. I think there could be some advantage to treating large wounds with a strong copper solution. The reason is that large wounds can take many years to heal over. If the wound is large enough the wood in the center of wound can rot before the wound calluses over completely. If that happens, it will leave a hole that could trap water in the hole and slow callusing even more. Copper is decidedly different than asphalt or caulk type products that are routinely sold for wound dressings. Copper will not seal in moisture. I will also point out that my comments regarding copper are not based upon scientific testing. They are based only on deduction and some experience. Deductively, copper has fairly good broad spectrum fungicide activity. Copper is also one of the preservatives of treated lumber. And again copper will not seal in moisture as other wound dressings can. I first learned of this idea from an arborist who posted on a different forum. He claimed to have used this treatment with good success. My experience is also anecdotal. I've tried it on one very large wound. I treated the wound a couple times in the last three years and haven't seen any rotting of the core wood yet. The wound continues to close up. It was probably the largest wound I've made (about 6"). I've made several smaller wounds 4" or less and haven't put any copper on them and they've healed up themselves. I do try to spray big wounds when I spray the fruit for insects and disease. Generally I have an insecticide and fungicide in the tank mix, so the wounds get attention of a sort. I try not to let unwanted limbs get so far ahead of me that I have to use a chain saw. I'm getting better and for the last few years I've only made large wounds where I let central leader trees (like pears) get too tall and am bringing them down slowly. Here is a link that might be useful: Linda Scott - Wound dressings

I'm sorry no one had a suggestion; I hope you got what you needed.

That's either normal reaction to California chill,or the medium stage of its death too be. If its chill.no big deal. It will flush for you in soucal in February and shed worn leaves. If its serious anthracnose,it will soon shrivel. Shriveling stems is sure death. Don't let it go dry and keep the good care. If it dies,that's not unusual for seedling Mangoes here.

I'm not an expert by any stretch of the imagination, and there are lots of folks here with quite a bit more experience growing stone fruits, but I'd say it depends what zone you're in. I'm in zone 7 (east coast) and wouldn't give it a second thought. In fact, I did some pruning today on a nectarine that has gotten completely out of control due to inadequate pruning earlier in the season (and throughout the summer). Granted, the tree I pruned is at least six years old, is extremely well established, and I left several actively growing buds on each scaffold. I have no question in my mind as to whether or not it will bounce back next year. In my (limited to about five years) experience with peaches and nectarines, they are generally extremely aggressive growers when otherwise healthy, and most people (including myself) tend to under prune. I had no idea when I started just how large a semi-dwarf peach or nectarine would actually be. Just in a five year period, they will become extremely large and unwieldy, requiring ladders and pole saws to deal with. It's not unusual for me to see as much as 4' or more in growth in a single season. AFAIK, summer pruning is pretty widely accepted nowadays. If you said you were in zone 3-5, I might advise against it for fear of winter injury, but hopefully someone else will chime in to either corroborate or debunk my statements. Like you, I am still learning. However, I have yet to kill a tree from pruning it- and I've taken as much as 40% of the canopy out before without obvious I'll-effect.