hi again thanks philofan for your advice. I did called Home Depot to try to get Latin name for the plant i mention above, they said it is Monstera Deliciosa after they looked at their log. I am more relived knowing that my plant is the correct one. Any special fertilizer should i feed it and how often. I know this type of Monstera climbs on tree trunks, but i plan to cut it when it becomes unmanageable. I also explained to the empolyee at garden center at Home Depot that they have two different kind of Monstera and I also gave them the correct names for them and they appreciated it. Thank-you in advance if you all decide to give me tips and advice regards on how to take care of it. Should I fertilize it which have higher Nitrogen than other K and P? Thanks

systemic should kill the scale, but it will remain dead on the leaves: so it will be hard to say if it's gone or not. so cleaning them off helps to monitor for appearance of new ones. if it's just a few you can rub them off with a soft toothbrush or tissue. you can make a solution of 1:1 water rubbing alcohol and soak the paper towel with that and wipe them off. but you have a large plant :) - it'll take while... it's prudent to check after 1 week of spraying if you still see any thrips crawling and if so then spray again. if your scale infestation is bad you might need to reapply systemic say after 1 month. also make sure to apply full dosage based on the size of your pot and try to dig it in with a spoon to mix with soil: moisture activates it. if it is dry on the surface it won't be working, only when you water the plant. since it's a large plant once a week watering might be expected, but it's better in this case to water lightly twice a week to make sure plant is absorbing systemic continually.

Name that plant: http://forums2.gardenweb.com/forums/namegal There's a ton of forums here! http://forums.gardenweb.com/forums They used to change color if visited, but not anymore since GW became Houzz. So I don't visit as many of them, and put bookmarks on the ones I do haunt regularly so I don't have to try to read through that incredibly long list of all same-color links every day, still with no indication of whether or not they have new activity since ones' last visit. Asleep, saw it but forgot by the time I'd scrolled down. U know how forgetful old people can be. Oops! Yes, I've manipulated some of the pieces through/up the fence. Yep, on panic night, I'll be cutting pieces off & sticking in pots to make more over winter. The roots will be OK outside (here) & grow back again next year.

Internodes grown under conditions of photosaturation (occurs when the plant is getting more light than it can use, but not enough to produce harmful oxidase) can be as little as 1/10 the length of internodes grown under low light conditions commonly found indoors during winter. As a member of the bonsai community, I can say that all experienced practitioners use a number of strategies to ensure their plants are as full and compact as can bee; this, because it makes for a much more attractive plant. Pruning the lanky late fall/ winter/ early spring growth ensures that all internodes retained on your tree will be as short as possible. Not only does this make for a nicer looking plant in the immediate, it affects spacing of branches whenever the plant is pushed to back-bud. IOW, since almost all back-budding in F lyrata occurs in leaf axils (crotch formed by leaf stem and the branch it's attached to) or immediately above leaf/bundle scars (the scar left on the branch when a leaf is shed), the length of long forgotten internodes comes into play any time you use rejuvenating pruning techniques. My experience has been, growers are at first thrilled when they find themselves able to keep their plants alive and healthy. During this phase of their development, pruning and root pruning is somewhere in the near vicinity of 'unthinkable'. "Nuh uh man! That tree grew it and I ain't taking anything off it grew because I'm afraid I might kill it." Somewhere down the road, the grower wants a greater challenge. It's often found in learning new techniques that help to keep plants looking healthy AND attractive. Having arrived at that stage, it becomes apparent the plant is not a good manager of its energy flow. It sends energy to areas that ensure it remains healthy, very often at the expense of appearance. Pruning forces your tree to allot energy to areas that would otherwise be ignored until shedding takes place. That's why, after a while, most lower branches are shed and more than 75% of existing growth and new growth is found in the upper 1/3 of the indoor tree. Had the top heavy trees been pruned appropriately, so the top 1/3 doesn't hog 2/3 of the energy allotted, and so light could penetrate the canopy to stimulate back-budding, the tree wouldn't require anything in the way of drastic pruning. No matter what, as your tree lives on, you'll need to prune it. You might as well set in motion a plan that has you working WITH the tree instead of against its natural rhythms. The tree will be better for it, and you'll get more personal satisfaction because you'll be a better nurturer. Al