You've bitten off a lot trying to start potted trees that size this late in the spring. This is much more difficult than starting a bare root in winter. As to how much to trim back, I'd have to see the tree to make a call on that. But taking off 50% or more of foliage consistent with proper shaping of the tree might be about right. Try to spread the roots or cut the ones circling the inside of the pot. Water at first about like you did while it was in the pot. Until it establishes roots outside the rootball, it is very drought prone. This is the real problem with planting potted trees this late. If you water too much you drown the tree. Not enough and it struggles along drought stressed. Paint the trunk with white interior latex paint. If you really want to go all out, shade it with 2-3 layers of heavy floating row cover the rest of the summer. Sorry if this sounds like a lot. I hope your trees do well.

I need some help/advice. The only thing i have ever planted are vegetable plants. last spring a co-work gave me a fig tree cutting. Tt was about 6 inches high and had no leaves on it. i repotted it into a five gallon container and gave it a shot of MG fertilizer for tomatoes as that is the only fertilizer I had. It gree very well and i got some very small figs on it but that ws it.My friend told me to expect that and that i would get figs next year. He told me wait until the leaves fell off (I live in upstate New York and my first frost date is around Sept 15th. He said to put the container in my garage away from light which i did and to water it about once a month which i did. This spring i put the container out and gave it the same fertilizer. I am in zone 6b and my last frost date is May 15th. At first nothing seemed to happen. he advised me to check all the branches and to cut a little off the top of each one. if the wood was brown to keep cutting until i reached green which i did and all of a sudden the thing took off. It got so big that I decideed to put it into a 10 gallon container. before long the tree was filled with green figs. in all there are now about 2 and a half dozen very large figs on the plant. I checkeda few website and determined that the figs i had were called Conadria because of their light green color. I also noticed that the figs were very hard and this was now into August. I spoke with someone from Willis Oorchard who told me that the figs should ripen before my last frost date. I also found out that they grow bst in zone 8 and above. two weeks ago I noticed two of the figs were turning a purple color. that week were were hit with heavy rains and when it stopped two of the figs were nice and soft so I picked them and they were very sweet however the rest ofthe figs are still hard and some are starting to turn purple. Is there a chance that the figs will ripen before i get my first frost?? what type of fertilizer should I be using and how much and how often. I know that when my tomaotes do not ripen in time i put them in a brown paper bag in a dark closet and they will turn red. Will the ame thing happen with figs?? I forgot to mention that i plantedthe tree in MG potting soil for containers. I will be heading up to Canada tomorrow morning so if canyone can give me advice before then it would be appreciated. Thanks

Definitely take Loves Trees' advice. Planting a tree this late in the year is pretty tough, and that's even mostly true for a native tree (which I'm pretty sure none of the Diospyros are). One additional thing I might change with the current setup is move the shade so it's shading the lower part and the ground of the tree rather than the upper. I think the goal with shade is the reduce the heat around the tree, not so much block light from the leaves, and I find the sun on the ground to be a huge heat source in the summer. This is something I'm trying for the first time this year on some of my new trees, but I've done similar things that have worked well: This was taken earlier in the year and now some of the leaves get sunlight for most of the time the shade is hitting the area, but the ground is shaded enough that it stays relatively cool. It provided more than 6 hours of sunlight to the area even when it completely shaded the tree. Just in case someone wants to make one, it's pretty easy. I just got 2 10' 1/2 pvc pipes for each side (4 total), glued them together with 1/2" pipe couplers, then stuck them in the ground with 1/2" rebar (all from home depot). I used pvc clamps to attach the shade cloth to the pvc. I used a cheap clothesline attached to 2 stakes and tied it across both pipes to stabilize it in the wind.

Botanical name of money tree is Pachira aquatica, with the aquatica referring to it's need for damp conditions. Did you remove the old, mushy companions in conjunction with repotting? I don't see any stumps. For putting outside, I'd use a much bigger pot for that size plant, so it doesn't blow around. A clay pot would help add weight to the base and keep the center of gravity lower. Your soil looks like it has plenty of perlite in it so you should be able to keep it moist without risking rotting the roots (overwatering.) Dieffenbachias don't mind a longer interval between waterings.