Good to see that Justaguy2 would go out on a rather firm limb on this question and that Makalu would have some wise encouragement. Persephone, it is difficult for gardeners who are otherwise such a hopeful bunch to discourage others. Once again, I've let a few dates slip by me this year. A recent one was finally getting around to trying to overwinter spinach. Now just when exactly was it, that I was supposed to plant the seeds?? Regardless of the air temperature your seedlings may experience once, and if, they emerge - soil temperature is critical for germination. Generally, the soil is warmer at this time of year than during the Spring, however, it is cooling quickly. I just put a thermometer in the soil in the most protected part of my yard - temperature, 42°F. There has been a big cool-down since it finally made it to 70°F in early July. If you look at the link below you will see the days to germination of some of the crops you've been thinking about. Note that it would take me 51 days to have the carrots germinate even if soil temperature would hold steady. Even a quick crop like lettuce takes 15 days. My spinach would be 23 days. If I was to plant spinach now it would be mid-October before it would emerge. Average minimum overnight temperature in my location is 35°F thru the month of October, 28°F during the month of November. Probably frost would occur at least half the nights during the plants first 2 weeks of "growth." Actual growth is just not going to happen. Get the soil ready and plan, plan, plan . . . for Spring. Steve Here is a link that might be useful: Days to Germination for Vegetables/Temperatures University of Minnesota

Planting potted mums (especially those without new growth at the base) in fall is typically a recipe for death over the winter, especially as far north as zone 5. Rather than stick them in the ground now, I'd let a few frosts knock them back and then keep the potted plants dormant in a garage or crawl space that doesn't get much below freezing. In-ground planting in a cold frame is another option. I have a bunch of small mums (with Minnesota origins) that were planted back in July and which have grown and flowered. I'll have to see how they overwinter, but I think I've improve my odds considerably by allowing them to establish outdoors for nearly a full season.

As long as you can manage to work them into the soil, they will still root out, and there should be plenty of above freezing temperatures well into December. Last year, it hardly ever froze up here in upstate NY and the garlic I planted by mid December still reached full size. I planted some garlic in the ground about 10 days ago, and those are still sprouting which means they have become well rooted in the ground which is all you really need going into the spring to have nice big garlic.

Carey, I am in your zone and I too received my shipment from Chalk Hill this past Friday. Gardengal is absolutely correct in that Autumn is an ideal time for planting. Because of the cool rainy weather we get in Autumn, perennials concentrate primarily on root growth at this time of year and not on putting out leaves. This is true for not just clems, but shrubs and trees and a multitude of other perennials - actually now is the time to be hitting the garden centers. I potted up my clems on Saturday in 1 gallon pots and they are buried in the back yard. I do have stakes where each pot is buried so I can easily tell in the Spring what I have put where. I also have my plant markers in these pots so I know which clem is which. Just make sure they are not allowed to dry out before the ground freezes hard. I did this last Fall with about a dozen clems I was thrilled in the Spring to see that not only had my clems survived, but thrived! Good luck to you. Carolyn