Do you need a sticker with copper for peach leaf curl? A single application should kill overwintering fungus without the need for residual (so long as not rained off right away). The excerpt below suggest nooks and crannies are most important. Does anyone use a wetting agent (or are these in stickers anyway)? I found the link useful, since the dangerous time is bud SWELL during COLD weather, which can be quite early in the new year. Is fall a better time since drier and not freezing for a Cu+oil mix? ===== Excerpt: The incidence of infection is greatest when rains wash the overwintered spores into the bud and cool temperatures lengthen the time that the emerging leaves are exposed to the pathogen, before they are fully expanded and can resist penetration by the fungus. When temperatures following bud swell are warm and early leaf development is rapid, infections rarely become established, even when spring rains occur. Here is a link that might be useful: Peach Leaf Curl -West Virginia U.

Yes, especially missing that last spraying, letskki. If you're going to miss any spraying don't let it be the last one for us in Calif, especially this year, since again, we've had plenty of rain. The winter rain and temps between 45 and 68 degrees is what will favor growth of the spores, and this occurs in the winter. Which is why we get hit so hard with PLC - we have opportunity and preparedness coming together with optimal temps occurring as the same time as peak moisture. And, on top of that, when spring rolls around, temps are perfect, and we get a lot of humidity in the form of fog, and general overcast weather, which is just as bad as rain. As far as I am aware of, there has not been any resistance to copper. The effectiveness of an copper product is directly related to two main things: percentage of copper (and MicroCop is 90% copper, you're lucky you still have some, you cannot purchase it in the state of California any longer), and the length of time the spray stays wet. The copper is active only when it is wet, when the copper ions are in solution. So, that last spray is the crucial one for us, especially when rains are late. Due to our decent winter rains these last 3 years, the fungal and spore counts are probably at record highs for us. So, if you can squeeze in 5 sprayings, timed right after rains, you'll have better success. It is our bane in California, but, compared to other areas of the country that have a myriad of issues to deal with, with stone fruits, we're pretty fortunate. I, too, have about 5% to maybe 20% affected trees, too, even though I thought I got in enough sprayings, and with MicroCop (I stocked up before I couldn't get it here.) Patty S.

I heartily agree with 'Harvestman' my tree hasn't recovered, looks terrible, straggly and weak. The smallest thin branches are dried out and won't recover. My tree was defoliated, fruit blossoms fell off as well, so not fruit whatsoever. Still looking for an answer regarding 'Serenade'? Has anyone any information at all on this product, as the suggestions from the forum to prevent PLC are difficult to find here in my area of Ontario, Canada.

I only spray with Micro-Cop (linked below, but sold at most nurseries and I think at Lowe's) because lime sulfur will damage apricots and my apricots are intermingled with my peaches. It comes in a package with "Stay-Stuck" to mix in with the concoction, so it will stick better to the branches. It is offered on organic websites, so it isn't very toxic, but be sure not to breathe it in when mixing or spraying. The mixing instructions are on the package. Be careful--the green color stains, and your sprayer will be forever green! Your spray schedule is about right-on. I have had my early peaches start to break in January before, but if you get the first 2, it shouldn't be such a big deal if you miss January. Spraying after blooms break and especially after fruit forms does nothing to prevent the curl (they get infected breaking out--once infected, it's too late.) Another problem are peaches that won't drop their leaves. Here it is the middle of November, and I still have some varieties with green leaves going strong. Obviously unless I strip their leaves off, a Thanksgiving spray is not happening! I have never used dormant oil, but I think you need to wait 2 weeks in between dormant oil sprays for bugs and sprays for curl. Hope this helps! Carla in Sac Here is a link that might be useful: http://www.groworganic.com/microcop-sta-stuk-m-twin-pack-8-oz-of-each.html