Alocasia and bud
18 years ago
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- 18 years ago
- 18 years ago
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how long before Alocasia robusta germinates?
Comments (11)Hi Albert, I remember a thread about this from a few weeks ago. Just a few questions. 1. Why are you using coco-peat? Peat in any form will use up most of the available oxygen in an enclosed space, and these seeds need a lot of oxygen when geminating. Peat also gives off carbon dioxide when its breaking down, especially at higher temperatures, and this can suffocate sensitive seeds. You would be much better off with just pure perlite to get them going, as I have great success with this species using that method. 2. What temperatures are the seeds experiencing? They should not be allowed to go below 19°C [66°F] or much over 30°C [86°F], as this will affect germination. Are you also allowing some fresh air into the bag each day as I suggested in the older post? 3. Are your seeds still firm, and healthy looking? 4. How wet were they when you put them in a container? If you followed all the instructions from the older thread, and the seeds were fresh, they should all have germinated by now. Is there anything that you have done differently besides growing them in coco-peat that might have affected them? Regards, Neil...See Morealocasia bulbils
Comments (81)I know I'm waaay late to the game, but oh well. I wanted to chime in on the slow sprouting of the 'Amazonica'. Last year I was gifted one growing in a pot, my husband brought it home and forgot it in his car for a few nights when it got down near freezing. When it came inside, the leaves died within days. I put the pot on a germination mat (in a ~70F room, so soil temp would have been around 80) and kept the soil barely moist, this was in late October I want to say, and it did NOTHING until late January or early February, when it started poking out one tiny little growth point bump. It's September now, and it finally has two whole leaves. I wish I'd known about the hot water trick, maybe it would have sped things up a little! Now I'm wondering what would happen if I spiked that hot water with SuperThrive (normally not a big "oh but this is a miracle product I swear by it" grower, but that stuff -- wow. When it comes to encouraging rooting on cuttings and new plantings, it's kind of magic. Once when I was out I subbed in an injectable B vitamin solution, and that worked just fine, too). From what I've read, the 'jewel' Alocasias tend to be much slower-growing than more common varieties of elephant ear, so that kept me from panicking. Still, I didn't expect it to take *that* long waking up....See MoreBuds/new growth,damage and some other stuff
Comments (4)Awesome pics as always Jim! I really like the new additions. Always wanted to try a Calla "Hercules" and those giant leafed castor beans sound really cool (I think the regular castor beans have pretty giant leaves!). I cant wait to try out castor beans this year. Im directly sowing the seeds in the ground in maybe about a week or 2. I still have to wait a little bit to see how many of the cannas come back up because the castor beans will replace those if they dont come up. Cant wait to see how your saba grows! If they grow faster in their second year then yours will definitely be higher than your porch by late summer. Hopefully mine will be the tallest tropical plant in my yard by July. Those cacti look great and your palms are going to make a great recovery! I really like that agave! Sorry to hear about the T. Ferns. At least the Dicksonia is alive (and it looks good too!). They are very hardy tree ferns. Mine looked bad after being "underwatered" (I put that in quotes because I think I watered it pretty well, but the fried fronds would disagree), but it made a flush of fronds indoors and looks a lot more acceptable now. Im probably going to plant it in the ground especially now that I see yours did so well! Thanks for sharing! -Alex...See MoreAlocasia bulb is rotting
Comments (29)In anticipation of the first cold snap expected to bring with it a hard frost, stop watering this plant so it becomes quite dry and allow the top, whether in the ground or in a container, to be knocked back by hard frost(s). Once tops freeze, protect the soil from rainfall and do not water. I move containers into the garage at this point; or, dig the corms, remove the soil from the corms by hand, and set them on a sheet of cardboard on the garage floor to dry - and don't let them freeze. After the cold-injured tops of containerized plants have started to dry a bit, you can remove them from the soil and lay them on a piece of cardboard as above. Once they're nicely dry, you can move them into a bag or box filled with dry peat moss. Make sure the peat surrounds the corms and the corms do not touch each other to prevent rot. Store on the basement floor or any other cool dark spot. Al...See More- 18 years ago
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