First of all, it's not you or the dog- ALL huskies have issues LOL! I've had 3 huskies, all have been shall we say, stubborn about housetraining. None of my huskies will potty on a walk. Ever. I could walk 8 hours straight and they are way too busy to stop to pee or poop. In fact, 2 of mine won't stop to pee or poop even when I take them on potty breaks- they walk and do their business! To housetrain a husky, you need 3 things, and you've already got the crate, so good start. The second thing you need is a 6 foot long leash that you will attach to the dog and to yourself at all times when he is inside. If you cannot tether him, then he is in the crate. The goal is to never give him the opportunity to potty in the house. All my huskies would sneak off and potty in the house when I wasn't looking. But they cannot do that when they are no further than 6 feet from you. Plus the leash gives you the opportunity to correct him immediately if he should start to potty in the house. You jerk the leash- not hard, just to get his attention- and say NO. Feel free to use a VERY loud voice for the NO. Then you walk him to the door and say whatever command you use to go outside for potty. I use "Let's go outside." This is where the 3rd thing you need comes in. I use a separate leash for potty and for walks. For walks, it's the 6 foot leash, same one you use inside for tethering is fine. I use a retractable leash for potty. So once I get the dog to the door, I switch leashes to the potty leash, repeat the command "Let's go outside" and take him to the same spot every time. Then wait. It will take a while before he stops looking around and at first he will probably want to walk or run since that is what you have been doing. Just plant yourself in a spot and wait for him to potty, then give all the praise in the world when he does. When he comes inside, switch back to the tether leash. The goal is to keep the walks and the potty breaks as separate as possible. Use a different leash, go through a different door (I don't but that could be helpful), use a different command (Let's go outside vs Go for a walk)- everything you can do to reinforce the idea that this is time to potty is good. As shroppie mentioned, it sounds like Kane is playing Husky games, and Dogma wishes not to participate. Huskies often play fight. My girls will jump on each other, bite each other's necks, punch each other, drag each other across the room by the leg, etc. Nobody gets hurt and they enjoy it. They even make play growl noises, which are very different than an aggressive growl. The difference is facial expression and body language- an aggressive husky has the ugliest scariest face ever, much like a wolf. You will not mistake it for anything. The ears go back, lips curl, tail swooshes slowly high over the back, hackles up, head hangs low, and if that body stance is ever directed at you or anyone else, get them to immediately stop what they are doing because that is serious. The playful position is ears picked straight up and forward, head high, tail may or may not be wagging quickly but never swooshing slowly, hackles down, lips not curled. The swooshing tail in the aggressive stance is sometimes confusing for people, they think it's a wag, but the rest of the body language is clearly aggressive, so don't over analyze. OTOH, people also mistake the pouncing and biting for aggression, but if the rest of the body language is playful, then that's what it is. Dogma is going to have to tell Kane to quit it in her own terms. She may not understand Husky games, or she may not want to participate. Either way, being a Rottie, she will be able to communicate that effectively unless you keep trying to stop it. My old Rottie had to snap at the newest young one once or twice before she got the message. But sometimes even old K'Ehleyr plays husky games, when she is in the mood. My first husky and first rottie played husky games all the time. The new young one had the distinct pleasure of teaching a young foster rottie how to play husky games- that was fun to watch a 35# husky drag a 90# rottie across the floor by her rear leg, but they both loved it! I think you are doing a great job on the exercise front. Huskies are VERY different from rotties, as you are finding out. While the rottie will do anything in the world to please you, the husky will do anything in the world that pleases him. The biggest accomplishment in training a husky is finding the motivation that will make whatever you want him to do the best idea in the whole world to him. Whether its treats, praise, playing a quick game of tag (that's what made my first one happy), whatever, once you find that thing training will be a breeze. In my experience, huskies do best with positive reinforcement, as they couldn't care less if you are mad at them. You can get mad, just realize that you'll have to do something else to train him! Have fun with your new family member.

I don't have a gun myself, but I might invest in some mace to protect my family if I had this issue. Does mace or pepper spray work on dogs? I would think so. We had a dog loose in our neighborhood for a long time, several months. He was friendly, at least, but he was quite the escape artist, untrusting and smart as anything. He escaped from my fence once after weeks of trying to get his trust, then he would not come back. It took months to get him caught. Animal control was of very little help as they couldn't/ wouldn't do anything unless the dog was contained. However, at some point someone hired a trapper to humanely trap the dog. It was a nice dog and ready to be a good pet, but it was a big yellow lab and way too thin, everyone was worried for its health. It was sad, it would act so interested in being around people, then so scared to get too close. Funny, too, b/c the whole neighborhood was rallied around this dog. ;o) It was expensive to get a trapper, but we took up a collection to cover it for the sake of the dog as well as kids and other pets. We had a happy ending. Once the dog was finally caught and "vetted" LOL a local family did adopt it and now "Duke" is a legend. ;o) Anyway. My point was if AC is not much help and you are concerned for safety, look into a humane trapper to help and take up a collection to pay for it (or if you have a HOA ask them to cover it).

Done! It was simple. The only problem I had was my own stupidity. I mistakenly clicked on VT instead of VA and the city of Orange. So of course it came up with 0 first. When I corrected that it was fine and came up with 2 results in Orange, VA. I didn't put in the name of the shelter at all. I just chose VA as the state and Orange as the city, then chose Rikki's when the 2 popped up.

I've lived in a few places that have started them up as commercial operations. By far the biggest objections are smell. A commercial scale operation requires very good management and proper equipment to deal with such issues, and it's not necessarily cheap. This may mean acquiring the right mix of additional materials to ensure proper composting - i.e. waste from most households will be heavy on greens and need browns (wood chips etc), and the mix varies by season. Household compostable waste will also tend to include things like meat, dairy, prepared foods, etc, that are harder to compost without smells and other issues. Municipal composting also need sorting facilities to 'weed out' stuff like plastics that inevitably get in there. Separate colleciton is also not cheap. Does your town have a facility for composting yard waste (including branches and whatnot from city facilities)? It may be worth considering starting with something like that - yard waste composting is far easier to manage, predictable, and with far less of the problems and unpredictability of other compostable household waste. Avoiding landfilling yard waste is already a win. That said, I'm all for it, but don't underestimate how hard it is to do right. It's not a project for volunteers at the weekend.