Housetraining is a behavioral issue that will take a bit of time, patience and consistency. He'll need to be on a schedule with food and water. Absolutely crate him when he cannot be actively supervised. Tether him to you when he's out of the crate so that you can act IMMEDIATELY when he shows signs of needing to potty. Make sure his crate is sized appropriately so that he cannot use use one corner for his toilet.

Of far greater concern....
You'll need to define VERY aggressive - is this flash, noise and posturing (fairly common and easily managed)or actual physical contact? You will need to prove (and no, it doesn't need to be physical) that thanks so much for applying but the humans is the house do NOT need a second in command. I'd suggest some help from the rescue/shelter, a meeting with an experienced trainer to determine if the aggression is truly severe OR passing on this particular dog. It's really not fair to your old Rotti to be subjected to continual attacks from a young challenger.

Good advice on the house training. Crate is perfectly sized; he fits comfortably in it lying down, but would have to struggle to not be near all sides of the crate.

Aggressiveness: I am not sure whether it's posturing or a serious problem. He has knocked our 3YO son over, but I truly think that was accidental (leash got in the way). He jumps up on us, but that's because he's being affectionate. He is generally well-behaved inside, and goes docilely into his crate most of the time. The behavior with the Rotty concerns me, however. They will jog along on the hikes, Kane on a leash, Dogma doing her thing (no leash; she's outside and loves it), and be perfectly fine, but not really near each other. But when we stop, usually near our creek (big, swimmable, beach areas), he will start jumping on the Rotty and barking. He does not growl. I'm not sure if he attempts to nip.

Dogma will put up with it for a brief while, but eventually (and this time is becoming shorter) she will snap back, with a look of vicious Rotty on her face -- all teeth and glowering -- that I have *never* seen from her. At that point, you're more than halfway to a true dog fight, and my hubby has to pull Kane away and walk away with him to try to distract him. Dogma doesn't pursue him or try to retaliate, just resumes being her calm, serene self.

Kane is too strong for me to walk, at this point. We just don't have enough experience with him to know he will accede to my commands. Although, that said, he did pull free from his collar one day and run away from hubby, but when he saw me 15 minutes later, he ran right up and laid down in front of me. (?)

Thanks for the advice. I have a vet appointment tomorrow and will ask for references.

Yep, you're really going to need someone with some experience to assess the situation. Jumping up is really a dominance move .. simple exuberance on the part of a young dog who is testing to see what he can do. Should definitely be discouraged.

Jumping around and barking at Dogma .. again, probably youthful dominance play/obnoxiousness. Dogma's reaction IS completely appropriate in this situation. It is Kane's reaction to being told he's an brat that is important - he should back off once he's told off by Dogma. My young GSP's brain leaves his body sometimes and he acts like a fool. If I'm not quick enough to tell him to knock it off, the Dane will tell him by throwing her leg over his shoulder and forcing him over. That's a classic alpha roll (NOT TO BE ATTEMPTED BY HUMANS!) It's her way of saying "Go away, kid. you're bothering me!" I absolutely enforce her requests for a little peace and quiet in her old age. And the Dane's the nicest of my bunch - the other 2 are much much quicker to cancel an expired puppy license and Boone would very quickly find that his mouth just wrote a check that his little butt can't cash. Those 2 do not get to give out etiquette lessons. Get an experienced someone in there once or twice in case Kane isn't going to respect his elders. An actual fight is not something you want happening.

At the same time, it's would be really wise to ask for a referral for a training class. It's important that Kane walk nicely for both master and mistress and that experienced someone will be able to show you how to use a check chain, pinch collar or head halter effectively.

Good luck.

First of all, it's not you or the dog- ALL huskies have issues LOL! I've had 3 huskies, all have been shall we say, stubborn about housetraining.

None of my huskies will potty on a walk. Ever. I could walk 8 hours straight and they are way too busy to stop to pee or poop. In fact, 2 of mine won't stop to pee or poop even when I take them on potty breaks- they walk and do their business!

To housetrain a husky, you need 3 things, and you've already got the crate, so good start. The second thing you need is a 6 foot long leash that you will attach to the dog and to yourself at all times when he is inside. If you cannot tether him, then he is in the crate. The goal is to never give him the opportunity to potty in the house. All my huskies would sneak off and potty in the house when I wasn't looking. But they cannot do that when they are no further than 6 feet from you. Plus the leash gives you the opportunity to correct him immediately if he should start to potty in the house. You jerk the leash- not hard, just to get his attention- and say NO. Feel free to use a VERY loud voice for the NO. Then you walk him to the door and say whatever command you use to go outside for potty. I use "Let's go outside."

This is where the 3rd thing you need comes in. I use a separate leash for potty and for walks. For walks, it's the 6 foot leash, same one you use inside for tethering is fine. I use a retractable leash for potty. So once I get the dog to the door, I switch leashes to the potty leash, repeat the command "Let's go outside" and take him to the same spot every time. Then wait. It will take a while before he stops looking around and at first he will probably want to walk or run since that is what you have been doing. Just plant yourself in a spot and wait for him to potty, then give all the praise in the world when he does.

When he comes inside, switch back to the tether leash.

The goal is to keep the walks and the potty breaks as separate as possible. Use a different leash, go through a different door (I don't but that could be helpful), use a different command (Let's go outside vs Go for a walk)- everything you can do to reinforce the idea that this is time to potty is good.

As shroppie mentioned, it sounds like Kane is playing Husky games, and Dogma wishes not to participate. Huskies often play fight. My girls will jump on each other, bite each other's necks, punch each other, drag each other across the room by the leg, etc. Nobody gets hurt and they enjoy it. They even make play growl noises, which are very different than an aggressive growl. The difference is facial expression and body language- an aggressive husky has the ugliest scariest face ever, much like a wolf. You will not mistake it for anything. The ears go back, lips curl, tail swooshes slowly high over the back, hackles up, head hangs low, and if that body stance is ever directed at you or anyone else, get them to immediately stop what they are doing because that is serious. The playful position is ears picked straight up and forward, head high, tail may or may not be wagging quickly but never swooshing slowly, hackles down, lips not curled. The swooshing tail in the aggressive stance is sometimes confusing for people, they think it's a wag, but the rest of the body language is clearly aggressive, so don't over analyze. OTOH, people also mistake the pouncing and biting for aggression, but if the rest of the body language is playful, then that's what it is.

Dogma is going to have to tell Kane to quit it in her own terms. She may not understand Husky games, or she may not want to participate. Either way, being a Rottie, she will be able to communicate that effectively unless you keep trying to stop it. My old Rottie had to snap at the newest young one once or twice before she got the message. But sometimes even old K'Ehleyr plays husky games, when she is in the mood. My first husky and first rottie played husky games all the time. The new young one had the distinct pleasure of teaching a young foster rottie how to play husky games- that was fun to watch a 35# husky drag a 90# rottie across the floor by her rear leg, but they both loved it!

I think you are doing a great job on the exercise front. Huskies are VERY different from rotties, as you are finding out. While the rottie will do anything in the world to please you, the husky will do anything in the world that pleases him. The biggest accomplishment in training a husky is finding the motivation that will make whatever you want him to do the best idea in the whole world to him. Whether its treats, praise, playing a quick game of tag (that's what made my first one happy), whatever, once you find that thing training will be a breeze. In my experience, huskies do best with positive reinforcement, as they couldn't care less if you are mad at them. You can get mad, just realize that you'll have to do something else to train him!

Have fun with your new family member.

I agree with most of what is already posted.

You really do need to consult with someone who knows how your dog is wired. This is going to save you sooooo much time and frustration. Try checking with a rescue league in your area for a reference. You may find yourself doing things differently than what you are accustomed to in the training department.

Also, tons and tons of people make a HUGE mistake by giving their new dogs to much freedom, to soon. This leads to all sorts of bad behavior later on. Every second supervision, with a leash, when not crated is essential for at least the first nine months, also a time period when you dog will be considered house trained (no accidents for this amount of time).

Lots of people forget that the supervision is "temporary", until the dog matures and is comfortable in his new home.

After a few months of this, you should start to see improvement, then gradual weaning from the crate can take place.

SG

meghane couldn't have described Huskies any better! I've never owned one but have friends that do. They are unlike any other breed I've known!

I would suggest working with a trainer or enrolling in an obedience class so that you learn basic obedience. You should be able to control the dog as easily as your DH.

I bet there are little to no other canine pee marks or poopies for your new young buck to mark on. I suggest asking a pal with a male dog, or ask if an animal rescue place or the humane society will walk a dog with you, you follow behind the other dog by a couple of feet, and I think your dog will become stimulated enough to move himself. IF that can not happen, ask for a sample the vets have not used completely. It should be male urine, and you can spread it around just before your walk, you might also get another puppers meadow muffin for the same reason.
IF this does not work, which I suspect it might, you might try and overnight camp out with your new charge in the back 40. As far as testing a superior dog for a higher position, you should stop the new guy from doing it yourself, this will raise you in the pecking order. Good luck