Snapdragons are quite cold hardy too. One of mine from last year is still alive and showing green leaves. You could also sprinkle California poppy seeds into your planters now, if your weather's still cold. I'm told they need cold soil to germinate. But then you'll have to wait for them to grow to blooming size, and I got the impression you want instant color. Ken makes a really good point about hothouse plants. Those HD tulips may be intended as indoor decor. Do not ever assume that because a plant is out on display at a nursery, garden center, etc, that it is ready for outdoor life. Ask if the plant has been hardened off. If you get a blank stare, that means "no." Edie

Suebot - You will definitely have to amend that soil. Japanese Maples demand excellent drainage and acid soil. As a first step, I would suggest removing the soil to a wheelbarrow or something and lining the bottom with a layer of gravel to help improve the drainage. Then, to the soil I would go ahead and add the peat moss (helps w/acidity) as well as a lot of coarse sand and maybe some organic compost or composted manure. As for how much of what to put in, you may have to experiment (or ask your local nursery) to get the drainage you need. I've included a link to an article that tells you how to test the drainage of a small amount of the mixture (as well as a good fertilizer regimen). I would start out with a mixture of half soil/half sand with some peat moss and compost thrown in and go from there. I hope all that trouble doesn't discourage you from planting a Japanese Maple! That article you posted mentioned some good cultivars, but my favorites have to include 'Dissectum' and 'Waterfall.' Just remember that cultivars with perennially purple leaves need more sun than I think you can offer, but green cultivars will make up for it by putting on a breathtaking Autumn display! I think your container would overwinter well outdoors. With the right soil mixture, I think it will reward you for many years to come. Oh, and no matter what you ultimately decide to plant in it, can you post a picture of it when it's done? You've piqued my interest and I would like to know how it turns out for you. Sorry for the long post! I tend to be a bit long winded sometimes! --Joe Here is a link that might be useful: Potting Japanese Maples

I do the same thing using vintage medical enamelware irrigators. The irrigators are not always cheap but they are collectible and I have a thing for enamelware, comes from growing up on a farm I guess. There is a spout the used to hold surgical tubing but I simply fill the bottom of the container with packing peanuts and then pour the excess water out of the spout and rehang. I have eight plants hanging like this now and several more to go into empty irrigators I have waiting. Each irrigator is around 2 liters so they are good for most small to medium Hoyas. Here's to using all available surfaces to grow our Hoyas! Here is Hoya sp Sulawesi GPS 8863 which is most likley Hoya pallilmba. Hoya sp. Haruku Hoya sp Sulawesi GPS 7729 which is probably a form of Hoya brevialata. Mike

Assuming that you have traditional wood double hung windows, your best method for retaining the windows and providing some modern day equivalence to energy efficiency, is to install storm windows. The old wood windows generally have very loose tolerances, and it is difficult to install weather-stripping that will not interfere with the functionality of the old windows. A cabinet shop can build wooden window frames as simple as they build cabinet doors. The open frames can then receive glass from a local glass shop. Because this "accessory" is a fixed window frame, applying weather-stripping to the storm panel frame is simple. Essentially, you are replicating what was done 100 years ago, except that you are adding a rubberized material to the edges, and sealing out the air flow to the interior side of the building. If you take it a step further, the wooden frames can be designed and constructed to accept a dual-pane glass unit with a low-e coating. In a cold environment, this storm panel with low-e glass would provide the same energy efficient qualities of a modern window. These storm panels would remain installed during the months that you would not normally require ventilation (i.e. the cold months). Using this method allows you to retain your original wood windows, while also achieving modern day energy efficiencies. The trade-off to this approach is that it requires additional "maintenance" in removing and storing the storm panel accessories at the change of seasons; This is something modern windows don't require.