ValSound-
I was waiting for one of the experts to reply to your question before I posted... But, since it's fallen off the top on it's own...
Ha! Yep, I do hate it! Glad you found the info. Just out of curiosity, why are you sticking with it?
Yes, I know you can use Sevin to chemically thin, but I've never done it, so I don't know the details.
Although I'm not positive, I don't suspect you wouldn't have any problems combining the sprays that you mention. When I had leftover Bonide FTS, I'm pretty sure I combined it with my second spray of Immunox. (Just make sure you're not spraying the FTS at a time when there are bees still around). There are specific sprays that I know cause problems... lime sulfur mixed with other things, dormant oil mixed with captan I believe, but I don't know of any problems with combining the ones you mentioned. (Experts: feel free to correct me if I'm wrong) I would just check the labels of all of them to make sure.
Best Regards,
-Glenn

Thanks Glenn,
This time of year the experts are probably up to their armpits in alligators & we sandlot sluggers have to fend for ourselves.
I just read the Sevin bottle & the amount needed for thinning is so small, that what's in the Bonide fruit tree spray may already be enough that I don't want to go overboard & drop all my baby apples.
As to why bonide? Well, that's what the seed store sold me...
I'm too old, & the trees are too tall to try bagging.
if you could point me to a not too hard to learn & find chemical to keep my apples more worm free, I might would try it.
thanks!

Hi Valsound-
I don't believe that the amount of Sevin(Carbaryl) is sufficient to do any thinning, as otherwise, it would be thinning for all the other people who use it. Also, there'd be a warning about that on the label.
Really, it's about knowing what the diseases and insects that you face are. And if you've read my rants, you'll know that the Bonide FTS's ingredients often aren't effective against these pressures nor in sufficient quantities.
Regardless of the insect, Trazicide can easily be obtained at Walmart, and will definitely keep your apples worm free.
For diseases, I'd suspect you're facing Cedar Apple Rust and Scab. 2 sprays of Immunox (you may need to get that online) at petal fall and 10-14 days later will do the trick there. With the Bonide, you can spray it much more often, and it still isn't going to have any affect on Cedar Apple Rust.
From a grower who's been there, the FTS really isn't even worth spraying. Instead, less sprays with Trazicide and Immunox you will get fruit you can be proud of.
-Glenn

Glenn,
I've been reading the label of TRIAZICIDE
it says:
Mix 0.5 fl oz (1 Tbsp) in 1 gallon of water and apply to 300 sq ft. Apply when insects
appear or when damage occurs. Spray to wet all infested plant surfaces.
For fruit trees do not apply more than 9 times per year, and only apply 5 times after
blooms have formed. For nut trees do not apply more than 6 times per year, and only
apply 5 times after blooms have formed.

It doesn't give me a timed interval between sprays.
How often do you use it?

Hi Valsound-
According to another poster in another active thread, it's every 14-21 days, which is about what I remember... though it should be somewhere on that label. For me, I only need to spray it once or twice until my apples are big enough to bag. -Glenn

Here is a link that might be useful: Another active triazicide thread

14 days is the interval I'd be comfortable with when pressure is there.

If you are using TRIAZICIDE and have PC problems, I would watch very close starting 7 days after you spray. Last year I had PC bad on apples and it seemed like on day 8 or 9 they were there again. I did 3 applications at 8 days apart and that seemed to get me through the PC phase.

Also I would like to add that I did not get an application on the trees until maybe 10 days after petal fall. That may make a difference, I don�t know. This year I will hit the trees at 90%+ petal fall and maybe I will be able to stretch the time in-between sprays a bit longer. I figure even if it runs the same as last year I will only need to add one more application anyway.

Instead of following the trees, I'm trying this year to follow the bugs, with degree-day tracking. If the data are correct, the PCs won't show up until more than a week after petal fall on the apples this year.

I've never seen damage with Triazicide at 7 days. I tend to wait until all flowers are gone.

I think it depends mostly on variety.

In case someone is doing research and comes across this thread just wanted to let them know that they changed the concentration of Triazicide and the Mix Ratio is different than what is written above for the new stuff.