Money tree pachira plant unhappy -- help!
lauriedutch
18 years ago
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Comments (15)
canttype
18 years agoRelated Discussions
pachira money tree help - markings on leaves
Comments (10)It's difficult to determine how appropriate a soil is by how the packager labels the product. What's most important is whats IN the bag, not what's ON the bag. It's primarily the size of the particles the soil is made of and the ratio of those sizes in the mix as a whole that determines how well a soil will perform. You can take 3 ingredients that have the potential to make an excellent soil, and mix them in such a way that the soil ends up being a poor choice. The only soils I've seen that I would use myself are 3 of the Fafard heavyweight mixes. I choose not to because I can easily make a better soil for a fraction of the cost. One of the keys to making any commercial soil you buy into an excellent soil is being able to find pine or fir bark in a size that's appropriate as a primary fraction of the soil. If you can find that, life just got a whole lot easier, insofar as the probability of consistently bringing along healthy plants. I wouldn't panic and start thinking you're doomed if you can't find pine or fir bark - we can work with a water-retentive soil if it's not too bad, but a soil based on particles larger than peat, compost, coir, sand, topsoil .... is a worthy goal. Almost everyone that spends any time on this forum recognizes there are usually inherent limiting factors associated with a very high percentage (almost all) of commercially prepared soils because almost everyone is 'amending' them to increase aeration and reduce water retention. This is certainly a move in the right direction, but if I can take you back to the thought that how you combine the ingredients has a very notable impact on the end product. If you DO find pine bark in a suitable size, making the bark the primary fraction of the soil (75-85%) will yield a product much different than if you added 15-20% pine bark to the soil you bought. We can talk more about soils if you're interested - and I'll give you some additional reading that covers container soils in greater depth. If you read it and understand the concept, you've probably taken the largest step forward a container gardener can take at any one time. While you're mulling that over, you can read about several ways to trick excess water into leaving the pot, which of course means more air in the soil (a good thing) and the ability to water correctly. I'm sure you'll have questions or comments - at least I hope you do. ;-) As far as light goes, your plant will probably tolerate the light load of full sun indoors, but the leaves probably won't tolerate the heat build-up unless you have a fan moving the air, so use your judgment. Outdoors, dappled or open shade with morning or late day sun would be ideal, and your plant will love it outdoors. My #1 choice for a houseplant fertilizer is Foliage-Pro 9-3-6, and the reasons are many. I don't want to get you thinking about too many things at once, so when you're ready to take on fertilizers, we can talk about that. The FP isn't easy to find in stores, but Miracle-Gro 12-4-8 in the yellow jug is, and it's cheap. It doesn't work quite as well as the 9-3-6, but it has the same NPK ratio (3:1:2) so it's about the next best thing. It also has any micronutrients you would have any cause to be concerned about in container media. All it lacks that's of concern is calcium and magnesium, but that will be in your soil, so you're covered for now. Questions? Al...See MoreIt hursts so that my Pachira Aquatica "money tree" plant is hurting so
Comments (5)Your plant is providing you with indications it has an unhappy root system (I looked at the video), and a healthy plant isn't possible unless the roots are happy. FWIW, the overwhelming % of growers who arrive here seeking help are here because of issues related to poor root health/function. If you can't water your soil to the point where it's fully saturated and at least 15-20% of the total volume of water you applied during the watering process has exited the drain hole, your soil is a limiting factor and you'll be fighting it for control over your plant's health until you get the plant into something more appropriate. Simply adding a large fraction of perlite to an already inappropriate soil is a step in the right direction, but all you end up with is an inappropriate soil with a lot of perlite in it. Additionally, you have the fact that Feb thru Apr are probably the worst months to consider repotting to work around. The extra soil volume you added is counterproductive at this point (increases the impact of issues related to excess water retention), so I think I would probably remove the recently added soil and return the plant to it's old pot, after inspecting the roots for rot and correcting any issues I discover. Then, I would flush the soil thoroughly and learn how to deal with the excess water retention until mid to late Jun when I would repot into something more appropriate. There is more to talk about and more specific instructions, but I'll hold on that until I learn whether or not you're interested in following a course that approaches the situation from the plant's POV, which is essentially making sure the things that are most likely to be limiting your plant are fixed. Al...See MoreHelp with Pachira Money Tree
Comments (0)I have a pachira tree i bought months ago that was doing fine until recently 2 of the braided branch wilted. I have 3 left but 1 more is now getting yellow and dry. I didn't even pay attention until I saw another leaf dying. What I dont understand is that I have regrowth, but some are dying. Please help me save this plant. Excuse me for saying this but I did try to ask the plant not to die on me, and I think that's why its not completely wilted yet. I highly doubt its me as I dont have a green thumb. Please please please help as this is my first house plant....See MoreNeed help with my struggling Pachira "money tree"
Comments (14)To give a more detailed story, I originally had this plant in a pot that was about half the size, maybe 10 in diameter which was flourishing quickly and almost too fast for what the main shoots were able to support. But then it started portraying these pictured features of wilting, weak leaves and unsupportive tall shoots. I went to the local store I originally bought the plant from and the lady seemed a bit uninformed but suggested I try transplanting it to a bigger pot with organic soil mixed with sand to help retain moisture. So now it is in a much bigger "self watering" pot (which I never use the reservoir because I don't necessarily trust it, I just feel into the soil to try to judge how much water to give it), with a soil/sand mixture. And ever since I transplanted it with these recommendations about 6+ months ago, it has never seemed to get better.......See Morelauriedutch
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