Thanks for all your feedback, I appreciate it. What I have done to buy me more time to work through this and DO IT RIGHT (as right as I possibly can) is to put the clump into a larger container, which I filled in with the mix that I'll be planting them in. This way I can keep them watered and then work on them and pot them up immediately upon separating them as time allows. This is more of a marketing question...but since I have never actually purchased plants from anyone before this year) and have no true point of reference on what would have been a GREAT suprise plant wise, size wise, etc, I'm very reluctant to sell these (as intended) to others not really knowing how they will fare in the end. Fine if someone buys 25 plants and 2 die, but not fine if someone buys 2 and one dies... How late in the season can plants be planted? If I pot them all up and I've got BIG, I think 3 gallon containers, and let them be for a while, pamper them, keep them watered well etc. I can monitor their progress and then sell them later on? Would this seem more reasonable? And finally, the price most of the other people out there I see selling plants this size or smaller is between 4 and 5 dollars. Is this also reasonable? I have to rely on his word that they are as old as he states they are? He also sells the liner plants (which are less than 6 inches tall) for half the price of what I got, they would be one year old plants. I've got plenty of room to keep these plants for as long as necessary, (EVEN til next year if need be). And I think that they will be fine in these large containers I have, even til then. I will agree that he might be less than professional appearing, although size wise, he claims to have quite a large volume of business. In later emails to me, he agreed that if sent them back the same day he'd refund my money and then used a little marketing ploy stating that he's completely sold of out all his plants and has people all over the country clamoring for more of them. I didn't get his email in time, or I may just have called his bluff. Yes, lesson learned...seems my experiences lately are FULL of lessons...I'm tired of being a dumb student. But like I've always believed, it's so difficult out there to really know who's good and who's not. Unless you have either heard from someone else (who you can honestly trust) or have your own personal experience with). I have also always believed that "plant" people are typically the better of the bunch and less likely to do harm...but that theory doesn't always prove itself to be accurate. Always someone out to make a buck any way they can. Sad really.

I have Climax and Premier along with Brightwell, Tifblue and Powderblue planted in two different patches. One patch I planted in Feb 2004 and the other was planted in the fall 2006. The PH in both fields is around 5.2 and for me they seem to grow about a foot a year and should reach full maturity (around 6 foot tall) after about 5-6 years in the ground. As far as fruit goes, they will produce fruit the first year; however, as painful as it may be, you should remove all the bloosoms the first year so that the plant can focus on growing rather than producing fruit that first year. In fact, "they" say you should remove the blossoms the first two years in the ground, but I could never do that. They taste to darn good. Also, make sure you get at least one of each for cross-pollination. They are self-fertile, but you will have better fruit set and larger berries if you plant at least two different types which blossom around the same time. As far as how old the plants at the local nursery are, I would spend the extra $$$ and buy the 3 gallon varieties if they are noticably larger in size. You will be glad you did as they are slow growers and the sooner they get to chest height, the sooner you can stop bending over to pick them. Just a thought. Here is a link that might be useful: Growing Rabbiteye Blueberries

It doesn't need another plant to pollinate, but it will produce better if it does have a pollinator. I would get more than one more plant to spread the harvest out throughout the season, but that's just me.

nico_girl3, For what it is worth, the Santa Clara Chapter of the CA Master Gardeners did a blueberry test. Here are a few of their links: http://www.mastergardeners.org/http%3A/%252Fwww.mastergardeners.org/mercury/jan2011column.html http://www.mastergardeners.org/picks/bluevar.html http://www.mastergardeners.org/picks/blueberry.html Most recommendations I have seen for in ground blueberries suggest you need a bit of time to get your soil pH dropped. I grow all mine in pots. So, I do not have any direct experience with getting soil pH down. Here is a great link discussing that: http://ir.library.oregonstate.edu/xmlui/bitstream/handle/1957/12202/ec1304.pdf?sequence=1 Good luck with your garden!