glued gravel on top of plants?
epipren
16 years ago
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buyorsell888
16 years agoepipren
16 years agoRelated Discussions
Pea gravel on top
Comments (15)Top dressings are great. I like pea gravel, crushed granite (grit for roofing), screened decomposed granite, red lava (scoria) of different sizes. I imagine black scoria would look nice if used sparingly. Coarse silica sand looks good too. I can't bring myself to buy little baggies of material for $2 or $5 at club sales -- I prefer to buy by the cubic foot at least. One of the most important roles of top dressing is to mechanically stabilize the base of the plant. Another role for top dressing... if you use something inorganic like pumice, you can cover the base of the plant (eg, to cover flaws or make it appear less leggy) without promoting rot. Effectively you're just raising the level of the soil -- risky with some plants unless you use the right materials. Take care and pay attention to your plants. I think I killed a couple plants by covering a grower's organic-rich mix with a top dressing that was too heavy (fine crushed granite). I think the crushed rock retained too much moisture and rotted the plants' roots (small Dorstenia gigas and Aloe pronkii, ouch!). When I bought replacement plants (addict!), I tipped out most of the grower's organic-rich mix and topped with small pumice instead of fine rock. Crossing my fingers, this should work better. Wish me luck!...See MoreGravel landscape on top of compost
Comments (0)I have some tropical trees and other citrus trees but my backyard is a desert landscape with granite rocks instead of grass. now right now I have the gravel completely covering the compost/mulch that my trees are planted in, should i rake the gravel back to give the compost better ability to breathe? I'm just afraid bugs will get in there, as I have a nasty thrip problem so I dont want to make it any worse, but right now it just seems the soil is constantly staying damp due to the gravel on top of it any help would be great...See Morewill gravel on top of soil hurt plant
Comments (5)Your soil must be wet most of the time if you have 'tons' of them. You could use bamboo skewer or chopstick (or a thinner dowel with sharpened end) to test if soil is still too moist. It should be inserted about 3/4 deep into pot for few minutes. I do not grow banana plant, so I do not know how moist they like it. But I have other tropicals in containers - brugmansias, figs, loquat - these are all quite big and also like more water (more than succulents I grow). I have many other plants, smaller but still tropicals. They are outdoors now, but have to be brought indoors for the winter. I do not have FG problem - sure, there may be occasional fly, but very seldom and very, very few. No standing water; watering when needed; good air circulation (using fan helps if needed); no organic debris left - just few things to do to help. If you have many FG, you need to find why and eliminate them. In the meantime, you could try sticky tapes to catch adults (hopefully less eggs to hatch). Top dressing of gravel should help some, not deep as you suggested. Small gravel is better than fine sand (I don't know how small or big is what you used). Sand is too fine and may impair drainage. Get Bti - available in granules (?) or liquid - and use when watering. Easy way is to get mosquito dunks and dissolve small piece in water yo use. Bti is safe to humans and pets, but will kill larvae. These are just immediate helpful tips and unless real reason why they are there in such numbers is found and eliminated, they 'will be back' :) Since I have no experience with neem, I do not know if it was OK for banana plant or not. Hopefully someone that knows will comment....See Moregravel or glass top layer - good or bad?
Comments (10)Evve, although there are general rules, it all depends on your own environment. When growing plants in pots that are native to a wide range of ecological environment, some are bound not to like your space. If indoors with controlled temp and humidity, my guess is you should be fine as you gain understanding of your own plants requirement by observing/monitoring your plants and space. It will also depend on what type of plants you grow, what type (clay, ceramic, plastic) and size of pots you use as well as soil. So what will work for you may not work for me and vice versa. Pacifica where I live now is also known as “fog city”. Summers are cool, mostly in the low 60’s and you can wake up in the morning surrounded by a thick layer of fog that dampens everything in its path. So whatever soil you use here, it can be kept moist by low evaporation/transpiration because of low temps and additional “unwanted/unplanned” watering (not due to forecasted rain…). Funny thing, most of my pots are clay pots, which is now a problem because they absorb humidity as well. So under high humidity, they transfer back the moist to the soil instead of what I meant them to do in the first place. This being said, a lot of my plants love it, my dudleyas have never looked so good, aloes, agaves, most succulents and mesembs are doing much better than under San Jose dry summers with increasing frequencies of 100+F heat waves. Some mesembs, desert cactus and other xerophytes don’t like it so much and need more attention (and no top dressing!). Trying to catch up with adjusting them to their new environment. No matter how much you think you know, they will remind you who is the boss at times :). I used to lose plants in San Jose, just not the same one dying on me now…...See Moregreattigerdane
16 years agolucy
16 years agosissysimone
16 years agohallgal2
16 years agobuyorsell888
16 years agocanteat_yahoo_com
13 years agoHU-25825541
5 years agohibiscus909
5 years agoKaren S. (7b, NYC)
5 years agolast modified: 5 years agohibiscus909
5 years agoHU-575600395
last yeartapla (mid-Michigan, USDA z5b-6a)
last yearMichele Rossi
last yearlast modified: last yearMichele Rossi
last yeartapla (mid-Michigan, USDA z5b-6a)
last year
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tapla (mid-Michigan, USDA z5b-6a)