Corrigan, I think, as they say in Las Vegas, "you are trying to make your point the hard way". It doesn't matter what way your form your beds, its the sun exposure that makes the difference and since you are aware that some plants will be taller....or with more foliage, than others, then it comes down to how you plan your beds. Make a sketch of just how you see your vegetables in the beds. As far as how the beds receive sunlight, that can depend on other obstancles --such as trees, buildings, fences etc. The main concern about raised beds is how they drain well and how you can properly moisturize the soil. If you have, perhaps, an automatic sprinkling system, that would not be what your vegetable patch would like since the water is timed and such watering may not be according to how the plants should be given their watering. Since beds that are raised---even slightly, will drain much better than surface beds, a better means of delivering water--such as a hose that will reach satisfactorily the furthest plants. One point; the size of the bed is good...4 by 8, since this allows you to easily reach the center of each patch without having to step into the bed....thus preventing compacting the soil there. You mention in other years your tomatoes have had problems. You should really do a google search on each vegetable you plan on putting in for their advisability to be rotated. As long as the patch is 10 feet away from where it was prior to, that is OK. Then there are families of vegetables that should be considered to be planted near each other. In this way, like vegetables can be given applications of fertilizer and pesticide in a like manner. Crop rotation prevents building diseases up in the soil and preserves micro-nutrients. Rotating is not very difficult, but does take a little advance planning as well as a basic knowledge of the vegetable families. Vegetables are broken down into basic family groups. These groups should be rotated together as they use soil in similar ways and share similar pests. Alliums Include Onions, Garlic, Scallions, Shallots, and Leeks Brassicas include Broccoli, Cauliflower, Cabbage, Brussels Sprouts, and Kale. Crucifers include Turnips, Radishes, Rutabaga, and Collards. Cucurbits Include Cucumbers, Squashes (from zucchini to pumpkin), and Melons. Legumes Include Peas and Beans. Solanaceae Include Tomatoes, Peppers, and Eggplant. Perennial vegetables such as Asparagus, Rhubarb and Artichokes should not be rotated and therefore should be planted separately. The rest should be rotated every year on a four year plan (so that the same family of vegetables is not planted in the same location within four years). This is easy to accommodate if you have planted four beds for your rotating plants and one bed for your non-rotating perennials. See where that advanced planning starts to come in handy? Rhubarb can be re-invigorated once it loses its good growing..dig up the plant, remove at least 1/2 the soil it has there with some good compost. Wood ashes can be added to soil that is heavy loamÂbut do add lots of humus with compost. If annual vegetable crops are grown in the same place year after year, there is a risk that soil borne pests and diseases will become a problem, and that plant health and vigour will decline. Organised rotation helps to prevent the build up of problems in the soil. Likewise, there are certain combinations of plants that will inhibit the growth of one or both types of plants. Here are a few combinations to avoid: Potatoes  inhibit growth of tomatoes and squash Beans  inhibit growth of onions Broccoli  inhibits growth of tomatoes Carrots  inhibit growth of dill This isnÂt to say that you canÂt grow these plants together in the same garden, just donÂt grow them right next to each other.

Yeah -in my younger,more energetic days I would buy bags of amendments,cut up all twigs,mulch leaves,bury fish and anything else I could do to improve the soil.A few months later it was no different than the test plots I left alone. The roses did about the same either place. Don't mean to be a drag but truth is without the smaller clay molecules to bind things to its every bit as productive if not more so just to use time release.Check Malcolm Manners site.I believe thats all they do at FSC. plus Epsom salt[which I use].

Well we got pounded up to 24 inches and then it drifted to 3 feet in areas. Hubby shovled the driveway on sat and I did 2 360's on the way to the barn. Spent sat making sure every one had food and water cause was not sure when could get back to them. Hubby thought what a great day to do xmas shopping, he did his lol all by him self and honest did a great job, no one else was out with 4 wheel drive it seems and those like me did a slide decided not to venture out again. Funny on 12/15 did my last sowing of the pasture grass here in south NJ 5 lbs of perennial rye. I bought alot of seeds at the seed store( think where the farmers go to get seeds). Been saveing up kitty litter jugs for my tomato seeds this year and a few lettuce for the peeps and my self. On thursday it was like 30 degrees here at 4 pm and heard a sound would not like to hear a week before xmas. PEEPS, my little bany hen hatched out 9 chicks. So nabbed up the mom and put them in the kitchen at the farm house to stay warm. She loves her little ones and since her first hatch was 4 ducklings this summer figured she needed her little ones. Going to be a long winter and need to grow them some lettuce. Thank goodness for this forum and winter sowing. ML

Congrats on the new pool, it looks FANTASTIC!!! quote" I also think it was huge that we went into this very well educated on what we wanted, most of which we learned from this forum. "quote I'm certain this was a tremendous assistance during your process. I find it sad when I see thread titles like yours, it was very refreshing to read about your great turn. WAY TO GO for both you and top50!!! Note to all readers, Having a good construction experience isn't about just signing with any pool construction company. You can have a bad experience with any company large or small or have a good one just as equally. Legwork and checking the credibility (referrals, BBB, C of C, vendors, service providers etc..) of your potential builder will go a long long way in giving you a better shot at a good company. The best men in the industry are positioned right where top50 was (middle of the pack pricing and great credibility) during this quotation. You don't always end up with the best pool when you drop the most coin, you just dropped more money. But, when a potential builder is way less than the other competitors you can rest assured that you won't. See ya, Kelly