Newbie to Kiwi - question about variety
alpharetta
15 years ago
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logrock
15 years agoalpharetta
15 years agoRelated Discussions
some newbie questions about leeks
Comments (2)I prefer to start leeks in mid April, basically at a good time of year for them to germinate and get off to a good start. Then transplant, if needed, around mid July. I get nice big leeks this way. I grow winter leeks that are extremely hardy and conveniently harvested during the winter. This works well in the unique climate of the maritime northwest. I would still think that leeks should be started in cool weather. Seems a bit late now. Transplanting into the heat of August might be problematic. And 4-15 weeks is quite a range. The difference between a 4-week and a 15-week seedling is huge. If I were you I'd start them outdoors in a small spot. You can plant a tremendous number of them in a very small area. Many more than you'll end up keeping. Then move them when they seem large and strong enough, hopefully during some relatively cool weather. Alot of people say they should be the diameter of a pencil when you move them, but you may be a bit late for that....See MoreBasic newbie questions about River Birches & Northern Red Oaks
Comments (15)I'm assuming maples don't drop a lot of junk other than in the fall? ===>>> you almost made me cry on that one .. i was laughing so hard .... seed drop in spring.. the dam-ned helicopters ... is a curse worthy of an 8th plague.. not to mention the 8 or 10 billion seedlings ... i suppose it might matter what kind of maple.. but all the generic ones i have dealt with are problematic at best .... maybe if you find a sterile one .... then you said: This patch of yard gets sun from about 10 am to 7pm and it so hot and dry that I have a hard time getting grass to live through the summer. again.. based on those i have dealt with ... most maple will not support vigorous grass under them .... and the pic below shows why.. they are extremely shallow rooted ... and in 20 years or so.. you will be bouncing over those roots with the lawn mower ... it is an understatement to say I HATE MAPLES ... lol.. like most peeps here will testify .. can i have an amen.. lol ... but that is because i garden under trees ... and maples and a few others are the bane of growing just about anything ... now.. whether or not these things will happen in your lifetime.. is the key ... as most of my problems are from mature trees that were on the property when i moved in .... whether you will be there is 20 to 40 years.. when the real problems start .... well that is for you to answer ... my fallback.. in the choice of trees... is ALWAYS oak ... once they get going.. they can grow 3 to 5 feet per year... just under what a maple can do .... and frankly.. no matter what tree you opt for.. there will be a downside ... acorns.. helicopters.. fruit.. nuts .... barren soil underneath .. etc .... so it will all come down to simply your best choice... as i doubt you will ever find the 'perfect' tree ... IMHO ... the key to clay is simply the planting procedure.. allowing them to get established.. and once they do. they are fully capable of putting their roots where they want them ... for the most part ... good luck ken...See MoreNewbie questions about siting, sunshine, pots vs. in ground
Comments (3)Hi Kristi..I 'wish' I had your problem..LOL (reside in IL) Did you have your heart set on potted or under-ground citrus? Sounds like your balcony gets adequate light. Since it faces east, does it receive any south sun? Is anything obstructing the upper part of your balcony? An awning or a second upper balcony? I'd like to add, I'm NO expert, just a citrus/plant lover and grower.. In most cases, lack of sun is the issue..If you decide to plant in ground, set citrus out gradually, until they acclimate.. But honestly, citrus I keep out front,faces west, with added north and south, do far better than those out back which is semi-shaded by a big, old maple tree, facing mostly south, and additional east and north. Still they flower and fruit..since you're in Ca, have much longer seasons than us Illinoians, I'm sure your balcony will suffice. I honestly think your balcony would do. (if you want to keep your trees in pots) It's highly unlikely your citrus will die from lack of light on the balcony..you can always keep them there this spring/summer/fall..If results aren't to your satisfaction, plant in the yard next year. Since your soil is mostly clay, it'll need amending. This means, digging, and re-digging. And tilling. Don't bother using a small tiller like Mantis..I have one..it works, only after sections are tilled by larger rototillers. Deep into the earth..ridding grass roots is not an easy task. I personally dislike grass-killing-agents where I intend planting, especially edibles..(that's my hangup) Poisons..uh uh..Other mediums will need to be added in the area you want to plant trees. It's a big job, but can be done..and worth the effort after the job is completed..You'll feel great.. What is 8ish soil? Do you mean it's alkaline? If so, another project ,,, bringing those numbers down..But that's just a matter of adding other mediums, blending in, and voila, a Perfect 4-6 acidic soil. Growing citrus in pots requires similar soil, only on a much smaller scale..Again, I'm no expert, only grown a couple barely-edible citrus in the garden year round..so my experiences lie in containers. Perhaps someone from your area will chime in. Whatever you decide, I wish you the best..believe me, citrus are worth the work, either way..Toni...See MoreQuestion about Pear and Cherry trees for a newbie
Comments (5)Jennifer, There are many factors that I would consider in choosing varieties of pears or cherries. The rootstock as well as the scion variety should be considered. Factors like amount of pruning needed (and your pruning skill), disease resistance (and possibly pest resistance), planting location (dry or wet area, windy or protected area, etc), productivity (how much fruit you would like from each tree), usage (fresh eating, cooking, storage, etc), pollination requirements (generally you'll need at least two compatible varieties to pollinate each other), and taste are but a few of the factors that usually go into consideration when choosing a variety. The reasons that so many varieties exist is that different choices are best for different situations and different preferences. There really are not perfect choices, and what's right for you, may not be what others have chosen. When I picked out my trees, I concentrated first on disease resistance. After choosing possibilities that would be more likely to avoid some of the most common disease and problems, I narrowed the choices down from there. The primary disease associated with pears is fireblight. I would strongly urge you to ensure that the varieties you choose are resistant to that disease. Other common diseases/problems that affect pears include pear decline, leaf spot, cedar-apple rust (don't let the name fool you), scab, black rot, and bitter rot. For a more complete list, take a look at this list of pear diseases: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_of_pear_diseases Prunus (the genus that contains cherries) is a fairly disease-prone genus. Sweet cherries are even more prone to problems than sour cherries are. Bacterial blight/canker and rain cracking are among the most common cherry issues. For a more complete list, take a look at this list of cherry diseases: http://www.apsnet.org/online/common/comment/cherry.asp I will try to write more later. This is just a fraction of the tip of the iceberg. But before I go to bed, I'll give you a few varieties (there are many many more) that you might consider based on disease resistance / common-problem avoidance: (European) Pears: Magness Moonglow Potomac Seckel Warren Semi-dwarfing & Full-size Pear Rootstock (hopefully, more on this later): OHF87 betulifolia OHF333 Sweet Cherries: Black Gold Black York Regina Sam Sour Cherries: Montmorency Northstar Surefire Semi-dwarfing & Full-size Cherry Rootstock (hopefully, more on this later): Mahaleb Mazzard...See MoreScott F Smith
15 years agologrock
15 years agoalpharetta
15 years agokiwinut
15 years agoalpharetta
15 years agokiwinut
15 years agoalpharetta
15 years agologrock
15 years agoalpharetta
15 years agoalpharetta
15 years agoaxier - Z10, Basque Country (Spain)
15 years agoalpharetta
15 years agophidoan_2000_yahoo_com
14 years agoScott F Smith
14 years agoalpharetta
14 years agoKevin Reilly
7 years agoandreeas1980
7 years agoKevin Reilly
7 years agoindicente
4 years ago
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