Unless you want this planting bed to appear as just a row of assorted plants, you need to increase the depth of your bed. I'd start at around 4' at a minimum and go deeper as possible. Then you might have sufficient space to develop groupings rather just a line-up. Aesthetically, evenly spaced plants of similar (or identical) appearance - unless being grown for a hedge - tend to not carry much impact and produce a jumpy, stuttered effect. Clustering tends to create more visual weight and impact, as well as being a more naturalistic approach. You may want to reconsider placement of the nandina and keep this thought in mind with the placement of the other plants. Otherwise, select for a pleasing combination of forms, textures and colors. And be sure to make proper allowances for the growing conditions preferred by each plant and group those with similar preferences together. I'd also have to assume some of those plants are going to be annuals or not winter hardy for you, as they are not here in my zone 8 - the impatiens, lemon verbena, gerberas, etc. Placement of these is not so critical, as they are only present for a season. I know it's a difficult practice to follow religiously - nurseries and garden centers are overly tempting at this time of year - but you will get far better results if you develop a plan before acquiring all the plants :-) If you design for specific plants and not just a collection you need to find homes for, you can be certain the all plants will have similar growing requirements and select for specific size and shape, texture or color and that you have enough, but not too many, to finish the design. Tweaking will always be necessary if you like to putter and you can always allow room for seasonal color.

A planting hole really depends on the soil. I have seen some soil so incredibly rich and friable that you literally dig a hole big enough for the root ball and drop it in. For heavy clay, the digging out 4 feet is likely a good idea to get the initial soil loose for the growing roots to spread out. Tamping works (to remove air pockets) [you can use the shovel handle] BUT since you dug out the hole to loosen the dirt why would you want to compress the soil back around the roots? It seems a better method is to shake the tree in th esoil filled hole back and forth slightly up and down (vibrate it) while filling the hole with water. This collapses any air pockets without compressing the soil. As for depth, it is at worst as deep as the root flare. The rule is a couple of inches shy of the root flare height so the tree will settle in and NOT be below grade. A tree planted above grade is fine, below grade (too deep) will ultimately die from it. Heavy clay means water retention, slow and wide water infiltration and long watering to get the water to penetrate down three feet as needed. If your area has problems with root rot you might consider raised bed planting. Do not water too frequently or anaerobic conditions will develop which will kill the tree. I never stake trees. I especially see no need in heavy soil...it should hold. If you do, two wooden stakes planted outside the root ball, perpendicular to the prevailing winds at the time of planting. Measure about where you think the support should be applied and it should likely be LOOSELY tied about 2/3rds the way down from where you figured it should be tied. Just my experience. You want the lower trunk to not move but the greater part of the the upper to freely move. Lastly, after it is tied saw off the stakes a few inches above the ties; this prevents the tree from beating itself against the stakes. Tie the tree off with nursery tape or some other binding that will not cut into the trunk. The tree's roots should have grown out in 6-12 weeks and allow removal of the stakes but if you want you can leave them in until the tree goes dormant before removal. Just remember the longer the tree is staked the wimpier the trunk. I like to soak bare roots in a garbage pail for at least 2 hours, overnight or up to 24 hours (what ever is convenient) right before planting to rehydrate the roots. Some nurseries do not think this is needed. I don't see how it hurts. I use Superthrive now to soak the trees as it appears to actually improve recovery which really surprised me. Your local planting traditions apply: Test drainage? Orient the graft junction in a specific orientation? Paint the trees? Supplements? (I suspect this is a bad idea anywhere since trees must grow into areas without the supplementation eventually but I leave it to local wisdom generally provided...

Sorry to say but I think that remaining lucky Bamboo plant is a goner, believe it too far gone to recover (from its color). As a succulent collector I'd caution that succulents MORE than most other plants would require small plastic pots w/ drainage holes & would absolutely not survive that pot w/out it. Am a fan of blue & white work as well, had a well-loved Ming Aralia in blue & white cache pot for several years, really nice. So I understand the attraction to the pots; agree abt using them as cache pots. I think it could be nice & doable.

Ok. We live in Kansas, USA. The pond has an earth bottom. The main part of the pond is about six feet deep and is fair size - maybe 100 feet x 75 feet or so. However, it's overflowed way out into the pasture area, so the depth is different at different places around the flooded areas. We're working with the flooding issues by various means that we hope combined will help. And one of those aspects is to plant some groupings of trees, shrubs, and other water-loving plants here and there around the edges in the pasture area. Thanks!